Water pump gaskets, front seal, new balancer bolt and a longer bolt or threaded rod to seat the pulley when putting it all back together.

 

Yeah, dont bother checking at advance,

I remember a while ago a thread where someone had a really long bolt with some nuts and washers meant for seating the balancer back on. Me and the hardware store are gonna take care of that...along with the torch!

 

why do you need a new balancer bolt?

 

Its a one time use deal. It stretches after you install it. The main reason people want to get another balancer bolt is to get a LONGER bolt just for the install part. The stock one will only screw in maybe 3 turns, and could possibly damage your crank threads with that few threads in while you're pulling the pulley off. A longer bolt just makes it so you can pull the pulley off without worrying about F#%king up your crank. You want a NEW bolt so you can properly torque it down and stretch the bolt threads like GM wants. So you really want 2 new bolts

 

I reused my GM balancer bolt is this OK. it's been 18K miles and the balancer dos'nt wobble?

if it's held this long it should be OK right.

Thanks

 

Ohh ic, by balancer you mean harmonic balancer; same thing as the crank pulley. I've always reused crank pulley bolts without problem in other cars. Are new front seals and timing cover necessary, I haven't seen those as a required part in other cam install threads.

Ryan

 

You will find that when you pull the front cover off the cover gasket is still in tact as is the water pump gaskets most of the time. I always have new ones in my tool box just in case, but they are still in the original wrapping paper as they came from the parts store. The OEM gaskets are just that good. The crank seal on the front cover is another story. It might look OK, but I wouldn't chance it considering the cost. Best to tap out the old one and install a new one to be sure. It appears from this post some people are reusing the TTY crank pulley bolt and getting away with it. A new bolt only costs 5 bucks so you have to make the decision to purchase one based on the cost/value ratio. The crank is internally balanced so the pulley's purpose for the most part is as a PTO for the serpentine belt. I'm sure the pulley has some flywheel effect because the OEM pulley is pretty heavy and also a large diameter. The longer crank bolt is used to push the pulley onto the crank snout initially not to take the pulley off. The pulley is an interference fit so it has to be convinced to go somewhere it doesn't want to go(onto the crankshaft). I use a 120mm bolt instead of the 103mm OEM one. The extra 17mm gives you about 6 or 7 additional threads to get the pulley started onto the crank snout. I use the longer bolt to push the pulley as far as it will go until I "feel" the bolt bottom out. Then I switch to the "NEW" TTY crank pulley bolt to finish the job. When removing the pulley I use a POSI-LOCK 3 leg. POSI-LOCK beats the cheap pullers that have the legs that flop all over the place while you're trying to install them hands down. I also use a BIG allen head cap screws with a couple of flat washers under the head to give the puller rod something to buck against. The hex shaped recess in the allen head cap screw forces the puller rod to be self-centering. One less thing to have to worry about when removing the pulley. Nothing worse than having the puller rod go for a walk when trying to get the pulley off. The cap screw eliminates this problem.

 

Bump.

 

i find it hard to beleive some ppl even consider re-useing the gaskets and the crank bolt i mean it it really worth it to try and save 40 bucks and then half to go thru the pain in the *** ripping it all back apart again to fix what u shoulda done right the 1st time


yes in most other cars the crank bolt doesnt get streched to begin with so lets say at the factory when it gets torqued to 270 or 280 whichever it is it strechs and then u re-use it and tq it to atleast 250 ur streching it even more how far do u really you can strech it b4 it breaks?? and then lets say u snap the head off and the rest of the bolt it stuck in ur crank then u have a big problem on your hands which could of easily been avoided by purchasing a new bolt for 5 dollars, think about it that way..

and also about how you havnt seen the gaskets and seals required in other threads, everyone just knows to replace them i really never woulda thought someone would considern to re-use them

 

My thoughts exactly. It's common sense to replace any gaskets removed while you're in there

 

Most people don't reuse the bolt because it it TTY. It's not that the bolt is going to break at that value, but that it will instead stretch. Once it is deformed it shouldn't be reused. In regards to the gaskets these new gaskets are much better than the old style paper or cork gaskets of years gone by. They don't stick to the metal surfaces and require scraping off. These gaskets are usually in good condition after a tear down, but I always have new ones sitting on the workbench just in case. One thing I ALWAYS replace no matter how good it looks is the crank seal and the rocker cover "O" rings swell up so they always have to be replaced as well. If the cost/saving ratio doesn't add up for you it's a no brainer no matter how good the gaskets look after the tear down.

 

Bump.



Another vote for replacing gaskets and never re-using a TTY bolt.

 

Thanks for bumpin bro, good read and tips!

 

FYI the 98's have the cheap water pump gaskets plan on getting the new metal ones for sure if you have a 98.

 

doing my cam install soon!! old thread with great info

 

I am new to this site..have a stock 5.3 ls from a 2000 Yukon and want to install it in a 1967 chevelle w a 4l80E auti. Any advive on what the best cam choice and intake choices and what s involved?

Thanks!!