Lingenfelter GT2-3 LS1 Camshaft and Valve Spring Kit
01-23-2005, 11:13 AM
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Lingenfelter GT2-3 LS1 Camshaft and Valve Spring Kit Lingenfelter GT2-3 LS1 Camshaft and Valve Spring Kit
Does anyone know anything about this cam?
Is it a good Turbo and Boost cam?
Is this the optimum cam I'll want when I'm all said and done with my Turbo?
I'm looking for the perfect cam for me. Ultimately since I'm ending up with Turbo is this going to be a good boost cam later on?
How will this cam do if I install it now in my stock heads?
Is it the right Turbo/Boost cam for me as my final cam?
I don't have the money to order the heads yet because I'm in the process of getting a 12bolt.
Here is the thing. I'm building my car in stages. Lil by lil to eventually end up with a Turbo Daily Driver. I figure by the time I finish my car HP performance will have their Turbo kit all done and ready to go.
Well anyway. I was thinkin about waiting on the heads and ordering the cam for now and just doing the valvetrain, lifters, etc etc when I order my AFR 225 cc heads with 76 cc chambers later on.
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$399.95
Lingenfelter offers this excellent deal on one of the best street camshaft available for the LS1 engine. Tests have shown 25-30 HP improvement over factory LS1 camshafts with out reducing street driveablity. Kit includes valve springs and camshaft. Camshaft specifications: 207/220 duration @ .050 .573/.580 with 1.7 ratio rocker arms 118.5 CL
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I already have an LS6 valvetrain, titanium retainers, etc etc Couldn't I buy just the cam and install just the cam for now and wait to do rockers, lifters, and valvetrain when I get AFR heads later on?
Does anyone know anything about this cam?
Is it a good Turbo and Boost cam?
Is this the optimum cam I'll want when I'm all said and done with my Turbo?
I'm looking for the perfect cam for me. Ultimately since I'm ending up with Turbo is this going to be a good boost cam later on?
How will this cam do if I install it now in my stock heads?
Is it the right Turbo/Boost cam for me as my final cam?
I don't have the money to order the heads yet because I'm in the process of getting a 12bolt.
Here is the thing. I'm building my car in stages. Lil by lil to eventually end up with a Turbo Daily Driver. I figure by the time I finish my car HP performance will have their Turbo kit all done and ready to go.
Well anyway. I was thinkin about waiting on the heads and ordering the cam for now and just doing the valvetrain, lifters, etc etc when I order my AFR 225 cc heads with 76 cc chambers later on.
----
$399.95
Lingenfelter offers this excellent deal on one of the best street camshaft available for the LS1 engine. Tests have shown 25-30 HP improvement over factory LS1 camshafts with out reducing street driveablity. Kit includes valve springs and camshaft. Camshaft specifications: 207/220 duration @ .050 .573/.580 with 1.7 ratio rocker arms 118.5 CL
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I already have an LS6 valvetrain, titanium retainers, etc etc Couldn't I buy just the cam and install just the cam for now and wait to do rockers, lifters, and valvetrain when I get AFR heads later on?
01-23-2005, 11:32 AM
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Ive got a customer in Raleigh running this cam in a C5. He's running some Stg II heads and Magnuson blower making close to 500 rwhp (only like 5.7 psi). He was making 440 rwhp with heads/cam setup before he did the blower, so the cam makes power. It makes for a good boost cam. I think it will suit you well with your future plans, while helping keep the car very streeable and well-mannered. And you can't beat that price.
01-23-2005, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by PHANTA-Z
Ive got a customer in Raleigh running this cam in a C5. He's running some Stg II heads and Magnuson blower making close to 500 rwhp (only like 5.7 psi). He was making 440 rwhp with heads/cam setup before he did the blower, so the cam makes power. It makes for a good boost cam. I think it will suit you well with your future plans, while helping keep the car very streeable and well-mannered. And you can't beat that price.
I'm kinda wanting to throw this cam in now as is with the LT's I'm putting in next weekend.
Will my LS6 Valvtrain, Titanium retainers. etc etc hold up for about 6 months till I get AFR heads?
01-23-2005, 11:46 AM
#4
i have the cam in my car and you can keep your stock rockers and lifters with your stock heads,you definitely need the springs and retainers but you said you already have them,youl definitely need a tune once the cams in though itll help out bunches.
01-23-2005, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
Just call Ed Potter at LPE and he will put you in a good blower cam.
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01-24-2005, 07:40 AM
#8
Hi
The GT2-3 will do exactly what you're looking for. If you already have the LS6 springs,they will work fine, and the cam will show you about 30HP gain with your current setup. When you go to the turbo setup later on, the GT2-3 will still be a very smooth cam that allows your engine to pull strong all the way up to the redline. We used this cam in our TT packages for years and are very happy with it.
The Wide LSA is what gives you a smoother idle. Lobe seperation angle is the relationship between the intake and exhaust valves. A wider angle cuts down on overlap, which helps hold cylinder pressure. Boosted engines tend to like this .Duration and lobe seperation directly effect the idle quality. You'll notice that most good N/A cams have more duration, and a tighter lobe seperation, which gives them a more lumpy idle.
Feel free to IM me if you have any questions.
Ed
The GT2-3 will do exactly what you're looking for. If you already have the LS6 springs,they will work fine, and the cam will show you about 30HP gain with your current setup. When you go to the turbo setup later on, the GT2-3 will still be a very smooth cam that allows your engine to pull strong all the way up to the redline. We used this cam in our TT packages for years and are very happy with it.
The Wide LSA is what gives you a smoother idle. Lobe seperation angle is the relationship between the intake and exhaust valves. A wider angle cuts down on overlap, which helps hold cylinder pressure. Boosted engines tend to like this .Duration and lobe seperation directly effect the idle quality. You'll notice that most good N/A cams have more duration, and a tighter lobe seperation, which gives them a more lumpy idle.
Feel free to IM me if you have any questions.
Ed
Last edited by Ed Potter @ LPE; 01-25-2005 at 07:20 AM. Reason: grammar
01-24-2005, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Potter @ LPE
Hi
The GT2-3 will do exactly what you're looking for. If you already have the LS6 springs,they will work fine, and the cam will show you about 30HP gain with your current setup. When you go to the turbo setup later on, the GT2-3 will still be a very smooth cam that allows your engine to pull strong all the way up to the redline. We used this cam in our TT packages for years and are very happy with it.
The Wide LSA is what gives you a smoother idle,since it allows the engine to bleed off a little cylinder pressure. Lobe seperation angle is the relationship between the intake and exhaust valves. A wider angle starts to open the exhaust before the intake is completely shut, creating overlap, and boosted engines tend to like this .Duration and lobe seperation directly effect the idle quality. You'll notice that most good N/A cams have more duration, and a tighter lobe seperation, which gives them a more lumpy idle.
Feel free to IM me if you have any questions.
Ed
The GT2-3 will do exactly what you're looking for. If you already have the LS6 springs,they will work fine, and the cam will show you about 30HP gain with your current setup. When you go to the turbo setup later on, the GT2-3 will still be a very smooth cam that allows your engine to pull strong all the way up to the redline. We used this cam in our TT packages for years and are very happy with it.
The Wide LSA is what gives you a smoother idle,since it allows the engine to bleed off a little cylinder pressure. Lobe seperation angle is the relationship between the intake and exhaust valves. A wider angle starts to open the exhaust before the intake is completely shut, creating overlap, and boosted engines tend to like this .Duration and lobe seperation directly effect the idle quality. You'll notice that most good N/A cams have more duration, and a tighter lobe seperation, which gives them a more lumpy idle.
Feel free to IM me if you have any questions.
Ed
How do I order just the cam right now? I wanna wait to order a whole new valvetrain for when I finally order heads.
I will order it today if you wanna call me.
919-854-3379 is my office #
919-625-7407 is my cell
01-24-2005, 09:02 AM
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This isn't the same cam is it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7949793597
I'd rather buy it direct from LPE but is this it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7949793597
I'd rather buy it direct from LPE but is this it?
01-24-2005, 09:10 AM
#11
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Quote from 93Pony on Camshaft discussion ptII pg 1:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/101100-camshaft-discussion-part-ii.html
Turbos are limited in exhaust duration. Let me clarify... For a STREET driven turbo car where low-end is important, the exhaust lobe is limited.
Because of the pressure in the exhaust manifold, turbo motors have a longer 'power stroke' then N/A, SC, and Nitrous cars. These motor's power stroke is from 0 to 90 degrees. Turbo motors continue to push for another 45 degrees of crank rotation. Hard one to follow, but true.
Stock cams work so well with turbos becuase of the lack of overlap & small lobes. Aftermarket cams are setup for N/A & SC's for the most part open the exhaust inside the power stroke of a turbo motor. Average spot to open the exhaust valve is ~45 degrees BBDC @ .050 lift, which is ~ 70-80 BBDC @ .006 lift (depending on ramp-rate). So, the exhaust lobe on a turbo motor *should* be opened late to avoid bleeding off power. At roughly 60 degrees BBDC is were you can open the exhaust valve. Add this to the lack of overlap on a turbo motor, because exhaust manifold pressure is ALWAYS higher then the incoming intake charge (by 1.5-2 times depending on compressor efficiency) you can see why large cams don't work so well with these motors.
So, if you're following me, a street turbo motor is limited to ~ 260-270 total duration on the exhaust side. that's WITH ~40 degrees of overlap @ .006. (nominal stock overlap)
Track turbo motors use more traditional N/A grinds as they stay in the upper RPM band were overlap will actually help the turbo make power. But it KILLS the low-end.
Turbos make full boost by ~3000rpm therefore make tons of torque, so most don't notice that the N/A cam they're using is bleeding off power.
I'm going for the most efficient combo as possible.... This new cam will open the exhaust @ 60.5 degrees BBDC. As opose to 69 BBDC w/the stock cam in there now.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/101100-camshaft-discussion-part-ii.html
Turbos are limited in exhaust duration. Let me clarify... For a STREET driven turbo car where low-end is important, the exhaust lobe is limited.
Because of the pressure in the exhaust manifold, turbo motors have a longer 'power stroke' then N/A, SC, and Nitrous cars. These motor's power stroke is from 0 to 90 degrees. Turbo motors continue to push for another 45 degrees of crank rotation. Hard one to follow, but true.
Stock cams work so well with turbos becuase of the lack of overlap & small lobes. Aftermarket cams are setup for N/A & SC's for the most part open the exhaust inside the power stroke of a turbo motor. Average spot to open the exhaust valve is ~45 degrees BBDC @ .050 lift, which is ~ 70-80 BBDC @ .006 lift (depending on ramp-rate). So, the exhaust lobe on a turbo motor *should* be opened late to avoid bleeding off power. At roughly 60 degrees BBDC is were you can open the exhaust valve. Add this to the lack of overlap on a turbo motor, because exhaust manifold pressure is ALWAYS higher then the incoming intake charge (by 1.5-2 times depending on compressor efficiency) you can see why large cams don't work so well with these motors.
So, if you're following me, a street turbo motor is limited to ~ 260-270 total duration on the exhaust side. that's WITH ~40 degrees of overlap @ .006. (nominal stock overlap)
Track turbo motors use more traditional N/A grinds as they stay in the upper RPM band were overlap will actually help the turbo make power. But it KILLS the low-end.
Turbos make full boost by ~3000rpm therefore make tons of torque, so most don't notice that the N/A cam they're using is bleeding off power.
I'm going for the most efficient combo as possible.... This new cam will open the exhaust @ 60.5 degrees BBDC. As opose to 69 BBDC w/the stock cam in there now.
01-24-2005, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob
I'm running this cam/spring kit. Idles as good, if not better, than stock. Ran on the stock programming for awhile and then had it tuned. Pulled 368/360 to the wheels. Stock heads. Mods are LTs with cats, CAI, 160 t-stat, and underdrive pulley.
01-24-2005, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by D3IMOS
This isn't the same cam is it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7949793597
I'd rather buy it direct from LPE but is this it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7949793597
I'd rather buy it direct from LPE but is this it?
01-25-2005, 07:24 AM
#16
Originally Posted by D3IMOS
I'd really like to know if this is the cam...
Yes, it's the same cam. Just FYI, we currently have the same cam with a set of LS6 springs on sale for $399.95
I'll try you at the number you posted today.
Thanks,
Ed
01-25-2005, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Potter @ LPE
Yes, it's the same cam. Just FYI, we currently have the same cam with a set of LS6 springs on sale for $399.95
I'll try you at the number you posted today.
Thanks,
Ed
I'll try you at the number you posted today.
Thanks,
Ed
01-25-2005, 10:10 AM
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Haven't really followed the thread but I just took the GT2-3 cam out of my Trans Am with a stock internal engine save the Comp 918 springs I installed with the cam. I went from 359.5hp/373.2tq to 389.7hp/378.3tq NA and the curve was solid all the way through.
01-25-2005, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAirJon
Haven't really followed the thread but I just took the GT2-3 cam out of my Trans Am with a stock internal engine save the Comp 918 springs I installed with the cam. I went from 359.5hp/373.2tq to 389.7hp/378.3tq NA and the curve was solid all the way through.
01-25-2005, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Potter @ LPE
Hi
The GT2-3 will do exactly what you're looking for. If you already have the LS6 springs,they will work fine, and the cam will show you about 30HP gain with your current setup. When you go to the turbo setup later on, the GT2-3 will still be a very smooth cam that allows your engine to pull strong all the way up to the redline. We used this cam in our TT packages for years and are very happy with it.
The Wide LSA is what gives you a smoother idle. Lobe seperation angle is the relationship between the intake and exhaust valves. A wider angle cuts down on overlap, which helps hold cylinder pressure. Boosted engines tend to like this .Duration and lobe seperation directly effect the idle quality. You'll notice that most good N/A cams have more duration, and a tighter lobe seperation, which gives them a more lumpy idle.
Feel free to IM me if you have any questions.
Ed
The GT2-3 will do exactly what you're looking for. If you already have the LS6 springs,they will work fine, and the cam will show you about 30HP gain with your current setup. When you go to the turbo setup later on, the GT2-3 will still be a very smooth cam that allows your engine to pull strong all the way up to the redline. We used this cam in our TT packages for years and are very happy with it.
The Wide LSA is what gives you a smoother idle. Lobe seperation angle is the relationship between the intake and exhaust valves. A wider angle cuts down on overlap, which helps hold cylinder pressure. Boosted engines tend to like this .Duration and lobe seperation directly effect the idle quality. You'll notice that most good N/A cams have more duration, and a tighter lobe seperation, which gives them a more lumpy idle.
Feel free to IM me if you have any questions.
Ed
https://ls1tech.com/forums//showthre...0&goto=newpost
Can you give me any words of advice on what to expect in NA driveability difference between the hot cam I have now and the GT2-3 cam I'm ordering from you next week?
Especially in reference to TQ and HP Curves.
I"m putting down 400Hp and 440TQ. With the LT's goin on this weekend I'm expecting a gain of 30 each. which will put me around 430 and 470.
My TQ is what wins my street races. It's a Killer TQ Curve that kicks in low and hard.
I'm askin because it will probably be at least a year till my turbo kit is available. So I'll be NA untill then.
ANY info you can give is more then welcome! I'll PM you this post too..
feel free to answer public or private doesn't matter to me. Everyone will probably be interested in your words of wisdom