I'm looking at the FM10 228/228 .576"/.576" 114.

I guess these upgrades would have everything that i would need for the FM10? Should i get a new timing chain (double roller)??

FM2-Dual Upgrade-1 Futral Motorsports Cam Package Upgrade - Add Manley Dual Drop In Springs, Manley Titanium Retainers, Manley Seats, Intake/Exhaust Valve Stem Seals, FMS Hardened Pushrods

FMC-CAMSWAP KIT 2 GM Valve Cover Gaskets, 2 GM Water Pump Gaskets, GM Crank Bolt, GM Timing Cover Seal, GM Timing Cover Gasket

 

out of the gaskets all you need is a front cover and new crank bolt. i'd pick up an ls2 chain from SDPC while i was at it as well.

 

Just put my cam in today. LS2 chain works great.

 

Their camswap kit includes a new GM crank bolt. Why would i need a new front cover?

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3739...-Chain-Set.htm

Is this the timing chain you are suggesting?

 

i just run a jwis timing chain in mine.. if you have some miles and abuse on the stock chain, then definitly replace it. I wouldnt worry about that double roller chain

 

I think he is talking about just getting the chain. Part #012586482 or you can try it without the 0 in front. The chain is only $28.25. SDPC has some great prices. JRP let me know about them last week and they are great.
You are making a wise decision going with Futral. That is the only place I like to buy my performance parts from. I have a F10 myself. They also do mail order tunes.

 

the front cover seal. whats that gasket kit run ~40 bucks? save the money and order just the crank bolt and front cover seal as stated. im refering to the ls2 timing chain, 28 bucks from SDPC. do a quick search for "chain" in the ls2 section or PM/email kris @ sdpc and hell get it for you, along with the crank bolt and front cover seal.

edit: looks like you dont even have to search, zr2877 already gave you the number

 

So the LS2 chain is a single and fits on the LS1 sprockets?

How do you like the cam? Did you go from the stock cam to the FM10? How is the pull of the FM10 compared to the stock cam?

 

Yeah the LS2 chain works with the stock sprocket....if you go to the dealership & ask for an LS1 chain, you'll still get an LS2 chain...they are now the "standard"

 

So is the ls2 chain actually better, or revised over the stock ls1 chain? or is it just good to replace due to the number of miles (in most cases) on the stock chain.

 

the stock chain is fine if it has low miles, otherwise its a good idea to change it with a larger cam & heavy dual springs....

BTW you have to take the oil pump off to change the timing chain so you might want to go ahead and get a ported LS6 pump if you plan on doing one.

Also, you'll need a big 1/2" drive breaker bar & a 24mm DEEP socket to go with it to get the pulley both on and off(big *** torque wrench for getting it on too..), a 3 arm pulley puller, a crank pulley installer or a longer crank bolt, and a big pipe to slide over the breaker bar helps tremendously...(BTW PM me about the crank pulley installer...I got mine for like $10 I think from a member who makes them..worked like a charm..)

Also, you'll need some way to hold up the lifters while taking out the old cam, PM me I'll give you details on making your own "JPR" lifter tool for under $5!

Also, you'll need a valve spring tool. I recommend the Larry tool, heres a link:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabrication/95463-anyone-needing-valve-spring-tool.html

And get a pen magnet from autozone to get the locks out. A must.

And have a quart of oil handy for lubing up the cam, rockers, pushrods, timing chain, etc. I soaked all my stuff in oil for a couple days just for kicks.

A 10mm gear wrench is another must...helps a LOT for getting into tight spaces, especially for taking off the coil packs...along with a deep 10mm socket.

have a few different size extensions handy too

and try not to get grease/oil etc on any of your pulleys or your belt will squeal for the first 100 miles or so. Mine did this and was very annoying...I forgot to clean off the pulleys.

And take your time filling up the radiator, it takes some time for the coolant/water to seep down. Takes forever.

BTW spray down the cam with WD-40 to get the gunk off it, mine had a haze on it that came right off with the WD.. then lube it up good with oil right before installing. Keep the cam level and take it slow when putting it in....its a no sweat operation..

And have a small torque wrench for torquing the rocker arms down....mine was too big and wouldnt fit under there so I had to buy the smallest one they had at autozone. Its about the length of a ruler. 3/8" drive.


If you take your time everything goes smoothly...its when you get in a hurry thing start getting difficult

thats all I can think of for now...hope that helps Just wanted to throw some tips out there...saves a bunch of time instead of figuring it out while you have the car torn down and all greasy lol

-Chris