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Are hardened pushrod necessary w/ this cam ???

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Old 02-28-2005, 02:49 PM
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dug
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Which push rods are lightest? I reused the stock ones because I ran out of money. I figured theyd be easy to change later. Everything seems to be ok but it still has the stock rev limiter. The valvetrain is pretty noisy though.

Which pushrods are the best to get?
Old 02-28-2005, 02:51 PM
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I'm partial to the Comp ones myself.
Old 02-28-2005, 02:58 PM
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Here is two stock push rods that came out of my motor!!!

Old 02-28-2005, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dug
Which push rods are lightest? I reused the stock ones because I ran out of money. I figured theyd be easy to change later. Everything seems to be ok but it still has the stock rev limiter. The valvetrain is pretty noisy though.

Which pushrods are the best to get?
Unless you're building an all-out racecar, pushrod weight shouldn't be a concern. And even if you were, there's much more weight to be saved in the lifter than in the pushrod. If you're still using a hydraulic-roller setup with any regular spring pressure and rev-limiter, a 5/16ths pushrod will be fine. Anything more and you'll get pushrod-flex, which will result in a loss of power.

The noise valvetrain could be any number of problems. How much pre-load is on your lifters? What's the basecircle diameter of your cam?

As far as the 'best' pushrods, Comp's Hi-Tech line of pushrods would be good for your application. Anything by Smith Brothers, JESEL, Manton, or ISKY will also be very good, even on the all-out race stuff.
Old 02-28-2005, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
.003 would be compensated and absorbed by lifter. But could we say the same about .03>.05 with non adjustable rockers. If so why such a small margin on different p-rod length? 7.35/7.40/7.45
Comp even has a 7.375 now.
Just wondering
Simply calculating pushrod length based on basecircle size and pre-load can lead to big problems. The more you actually do this stuff you'll start to realize that no calculation can be taken as fact. EVERYTHING needs to be checked. There are way too many variables to simply assume that your geometry is correct.

Most valvetrain manufacturers will have good technical write-ups on valvetrain geometry on their webpages. That's a good place to start, even though it's all pretty basic stuff.
Old 03-01-2005, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
What is wrong is where is it written that the p-rods are a fusible link??
If they bend, that means they flex, if they flex they are robbing you power and induce valve float.
Darn, I wish poeple quit refering to the stock p-rods as a fuse
Also stock p-rods are 7.38 in length and aftermarket cams are .03 smaller in base circle, so unless you have adjustable rockers, you're valvetrain geometry is out of whack by .03, and that my friend makes a noisy valvetrain and again a loss of power and worse if your lifts are pretty decent.
Sorry but please QUIT referring to stock p-rods as a good fuse.

So you can show me ACTUAL dyno results of these power robbing push rods?

Fuse or no fuse im not trying to be a dick here. Im not Mr. KnowItAll, nor do I pretend to be. Im simply finding/asking new ways to do things. Dont be afraid to think differently.

Never did answer my question on what exactly is going to cost more...



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