Well, I got my cam in my GTO last night along with the springs and rods. I had my crane valve spring compressor and 5/16 brake line for the lifters but what I couldn't find in time was a longer crank bolt. I didn't know I was going to have time to do it this weekend and wasn't prepared. My question is has anyone here had experience with heating this ASP pulley up in an over and been able to install it that way? Also I was wandering that if you did get it hot enough, is it possible at say 300 degrees it could damage the front timing cover seal? I guess if there are no other alternatives I'll just have to oreder the bolt from napa and wait a couple more days. Any input would be great! Thank you!

 

I've never heated a pulley to install one BUT I have gotten a rubber mallet and "tapped" it on to the crank just enough to get the crank bolt to bite and then I just let the bolt do the rest of the work. Good luck

 

Don't hit your pulley!

A longer bolt of the right size is very difficult to find. Search for a post by Code4, he used to sell those and they worked great. If he doesn't have them anymore, he could tell you the correct pitch, etc. to use.

Try coating the inside of the pulley and snout of the crank with oil. When I did that my pulley slipped right on. I might have been able to do it just fine without a longer bolt, but I played it safe anyway. Try that first, see if you can get enough threads to bite.

Also, if you find a longer bolt to use, don't bottom it out when putting the pulley on, that would be bad.

 

Thanks for the reply's. I slipped the ASP on the crank and then installed the bolt just to see how much of a bite it would get. I might have gotten 2 revos out of it. I came off pretty easy, I may try applying a little pressure and see if starts to walk onto the crank, if it does then I'm home free, if it doesn't I will STOP and get a bolt from napa. Ironicly, I called them with the part # for that bolt and the only napa thats open today doesn't have it but another napa closer to me does but they are closed. Oh well. Thanks again guys!!

 

I've always just used the stock bolt to get it started. Like the others said, lubricate the shaft first, and drive it on a ways with a big hammer. Use a block of wood between the hammer and pulley, though.

If you do use a longer bolt, be very carefull you don't bottom it out, as already mentioned above. There have been a few people that did that and it broke off inside the crank.

 

Well, I got it on. I sat the snout of the pulley in 150 water and put ice packs on the crank. It helped a little, but not much. I dried the pulley and lubed it up and just went reeeeallllly slow, watching for progress and it went. Wwwheeww! I dont know if I sweated more from the stress or turning the wratchet Anyway, I just got done doing that. It seems if just come to an abrubpt halt and the bolt then felt like you were beginning the toruqe sequence. It looks to me like there is still about 6-8mm's worth of the shiny part of the pulley still sticking out from the timing cover seal, is that normal??
The pulley feels like it has bottomed out.

 

Yes. You'll have some left of the snout showing. You'll want to leave that bolt in there and torque it to 240 ft-lbs. and it'll be good, before you put your new bolt in. I assume you're following www.ls1howto.com ?

 

I did source some of my info from there but also just from reading threads on here over time. Example: on howto theres no mention that I saw of using 5/16 brake line but found several folks using that or bar stock in place of the jpr tool. But it is definately a killer source for info, just like tech is. I just take both and mix well. Thanks to all of you for your input. Now lets finish getting this thing together and do some thumpin!!

 

That's why you do a head swap at the same time and forget about those lifters holding you up

Good luck!

 

I just put the ASP pulley on my 04 GTO yesterday. I oiled the inside and outside of the pulley and pushed it on by hand, then put the bolt on and it snugged right up. I used a long 1/2 breaker bar and got it as tight as possible without hurting myself. It went on fairly smooth, no problems.

 

You really need to follow the proper sequence of torquing it down to 240 ft-lbs., and then replacing it with a new bolt torqued down to the proper torque and then rotated a certain degree (www.ls1howto.com). If I were you I wouldn't rely on just getting it as snug as possible without hurting yourself. Not sure if you did it or not as it's not clear from your post. Just wanted to give you a heads up.

 

I have a few longer crank bolts laying around I guess I should pick some more up and start selling them.

 

Unless of course you are using an ARP bolt, which is not torque to yield. If you don't get it torqued properly, you could have the pulley come off; that's happened to a few people also. I remeber one guy never did find his expensive ASP pulley; it came off at high rpm and really took off when it hit the ground.

 

We used a 1/2 drive impact on it and it did not budge after getting it snug with a 24" breaker bar.

The same impact took the factory bolt off pretty easily.