The FM13 is in...
04-17-2005, 09:48 PM
#1
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The FM13 is in... new stuff:
FM13 (230"/232" .595"/.585" 112LSA)
PRC dual springs
PRC harden pushrods
Rollmaster Double-Roller timing chain
Overall the install went very well, about 9 hours. Had my brother and a good friend of mine that is a big time gearhead and has built a bunch of motors on hand for assistance since it was my first cam swap. Biggest headache was getting the rods sanded and grind down so they would slide in to hold the lifters up. One thing that did scare me was seeing how sloppy the stock timing chain is.
After a few minutes of helping the idle along it finally settled in at 800 rpm which you will see in the video.
I'll start tuning it tomorrow so hopefully in a month or so I will have some dyno and track numbers.
I want to thank everyone on this forum for all the useful tips and advice, also to JMX for his cam swap how to
, that made this project so much easier.
Here is the initial start up video, no tuning:
http://www.motorcityoutlaws.com/user...ate/movie1.wmv
Tom
FM13 (230"/232" .595"/.585" 112LSA)
PRC dual springs
PRC harden pushrods
Rollmaster Double-Roller timing chain
Overall the install went very well, about 9 hours. Had my brother and a good friend of mine that is a big time gearhead and has built a bunch of motors on hand for assistance since it was my first cam swap. Biggest headache was getting the rods sanded and grind down so they would slide in to hold the lifters up. One thing that did scare me was seeing how sloppy the stock timing chain is.
After a few minutes of helping the idle along it finally settled in at 800 rpm which you will see in the video.
I'll start tuning it tomorrow so hopefully in a month or so I will have some dyno and track numbers.
I want to thank everyone on this forum for all the useful tips and advice, also to JMX for his cam swap how to
, that made this project so much easier.Here is the initial start up video, no tuning:
http://www.motorcityoutlaws.com/user...ate/movie1.wmv
Tom
Last edited by Checkmate; 04-18-2005 at 05:41 AM.
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04-19-2005, 08:23 PM
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No need to flycut pistons with this cam.
I just got my tune yesterday with my FM13 cam. 405 RWHP---379 RWTQ is what I put down. I'll start a thread about it later once I get my graph scanned to post it.
I just got my tune yesterday with my FM13 cam. 405 RWHP---379 RWTQ is what I put down. I'll start a thread about it later once I get my graph scanned to post it.
04-19-2005, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ulySSes
No need to flycut pistons with this cam.
I just got my tune yesterday with my FM13 cam. 405 RWHP---379 RWTQ is what I put down. I'll start a thread about it later once I get my graph scanned to post it.
I just got my tune yesterday with my FM13 cam. 405 RWHP---379 RWTQ is what I put down. I'll start a thread about it later once I get my graph scanned to post it.
what other mods do you have with this cam?
04-19-2005, 11:31 PM
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Thanks everyone. The true duals make it sound like a monster. 
I bought the cam during the last cam sale from FMS, it was on sale for $350. Normally the cams go for $400, plus $350 for Precision Race Components Dual Valve Spring Kit (Includes dual springs rated to .650 lift, titanium retainers, seats, intake & exhaust seals) and $50 for the gaskets.
See this link for more info:
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5
The true duals make it sound like a monster.
Originally Posted by titaniumSS
How much did all that cost you? Lookin into that exact cam in the future and wow, didn't realize that it sounded so damn good. Car sounds like a beast 
See this link for more info:
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5
04-20-2005, 07:56 AM
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Can you give me any tips on the dual timing chain install. I'm getting my FMS F14 cam in prolly late next week or the week affter, and can't wait. I have read a lot of docs on cam swaps, but haven't really read on replacing the stock chain with a dual chain setup. My mods are listed in link in sig, I hope to put down some good numbers. Any advice would be appreciated, you can shoot me an [email=bheusmann@conseptsolutions.com]email[\email] if you want. Thanks, and enjoy.
04-20-2005, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Checkmate
Thanks everyone. The true duals make it sound like a monster.
I bought the cam during the last cam sale from FMS, it was on sale for $350. Normally the cams go for $400, plus $350 for Precision Race Components Dual Valve Spring Kit (Includes dual springs rated to .650 lift, titanium retainers, seats, intake & exhaust seals) and $50 for the gaskets.
See this link for more info:
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5
The true duals make it sound like a monster. I bought the cam during the last cam sale from FMS, it was on sale for $350. Normally the cams go for $400, plus $350 for Precision Race Components Dual Valve Spring Kit (Includes dual springs rated to .650 lift, titanium retainers, seats, intake & exhaust seals) and $50 for the gaskets.
See this link for more info:
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5
04-20-2005, 09:42 AM
#17
Originally Posted by NVE THIS
Can you give me any tips on the dual timing chain install. I'm getting my FMS F14 cam in prolly late next week or the week affter, and can't wait. I have read a lot of docs on cam swaps, but haven't really read on replacing the stock chain with a dual chain setup. My mods are listed in link in sig, I hope to put down some good numbers. Any advice would be appreciated, you can shoot me an [email=bheusmann@conseptsolutions.com]email[\email] if you want. Thanks, and enjoy.
Remove pickuptube bolt after lowering the oil pan. I used 2 prybars and had friends keep pressure on them to pry the pan down. Remove 4 oil pump bolts and twist the oil pump clockwise while pulling on the pickup tube. Once out, use a gear puller to pull the crank gear. Install the new crank gear with the marked keyway onto the crank ridge ( you'll see ) for standard timing. Simply tap it back on with a flatpiece of wood and a hammer until it does not want to move anymore by tapping alone. Insert your old timing gear into the front of the oil pump. Line it up and push the oil pump back on. You need to do the opposite of removing it to install it. Have your friends come back and pull down on prybars while you install the pickup tube bolt. Make sure you have a towel stuffed in there around it, i also used saftey wire on the bolt which i recommend. The pickup tube bolt is not all that hard to do, once you get it started, definitely use a gear wrench to get it back in there. A gear wrench and pliers makes it really easy. Make SURE you have the oil pump spacers lined up right.
