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C5R Block (info) vs Sleeved Blocks

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Old 05-03-2005, 06:57 AM
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Well for one thing the tips of the titanium valves have an intergral steel lash cap. They some how incorporate it into the valve tip though, not a separate piece like an actual lash cap. They call it something different though, can't remember off the top of my head.

As far as what's done to the seat and valve perimeter to make it last I'm not sure. My friend is building an sb2 400 cube motor for his 68 though with titanium valve, I'll ask him as he has told me that his head porter said they will be fine on the street, with a .805" cam too.
Old 05-03-2005, 08:34 AM
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I would be in for a bigbore and/or tall deck bowtie block.
Old 05-03-2005, 09:25 AM
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The valve seats are impregnated with copper so this will disperse some heat. I've not read anything about their hardness though.

Mike.
Old 05-03-2005, 09:44 AM
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One quick question. Considering most (MOST) of the MID blocks are being shipped with billet main caps, are we talking about a bow tie block that would be about the aforemetioned price with billet caps, good fasteners ect? I'm just thinking in terms of the little guy that might not want to piece it all together and if it is done @ the right scale may cut the costs down on the accompanying hardware which would make it very competative in terms of price. Also, when GMPP ships the bow tie blocks, what machining needs to be done on them? Just curoius what the end user will need to put into prep before assembly to sustain between moderate to big power with room to grow as the user grows.


For those that keep commenting on the "down under" blocks, OUT WITH THE INFO , if you can.
Old 05-06-2005, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve - Race Eng

Question on the LS7 heads. I'm a bit curious about the use of titanium intake valves on a street engine. What is being done to the valve seat and valve face to get the valve to last a reasonable time?

Steve
I know they did a lot of testing. I hear that the valve stems have a proprietary coating to enhance the longevity, but in the end the engine had to pass the 300-hour GM durability test and that is brutal. The engine is ran for 300-hours and spends most of its time at WOT between the RPM ranges of peak torque and peak horsepower. It sounds like you are climbing a hill with your foot pushed thru the floorboard and then you pass the top of the hill and for just a brief few seconds the engine gets to come back down to the peak torque RPM and then it is WOT and uphill again! I have witnessed several engines during this test and you keep thinking is this ever going to end! The engine is allowed to come down to an idle for a specified amount of time (I do not remember the time schedules, but the idle time is not very long) then it is WOT and uphill again.
They tear the engines down for a full inspection and if anything shows an indication of failure or exhibits a wear pattern that would lead to failure, then that component must be analyzed and a solution found to prevent the failure. Then it is back to the 300-hour test!
So whatever they have done in terms of the valve seat and valve face -- it works!
Old 05-06-2005, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by parts@sdpc
I know they did a lot of testing. I hear that the valve stems have a proprietary coating to enhance the longevity, but in the end the engine had to pass the 300-hour GM durability test and that is brutal. The engine is ran for 300-hours and spends most of its time at WOT between the RPM ranges of peak torque and peak horsepower. It sounds like you are climbing a hill with your foot pushed thru the floorboard and then you pass the top of the hill and for just a brief few seconds the engine gets to come back down to the peak torque RPM and then it is WOT and uphill again! I have witnessed several engines during this test and you keep thinking is this ever going to end! The engine is allowed to come down to an idle for a specified amount of time (I do not remember the time schedules, but the idle time is not very long) then it is WOT and uphill again.
They tear the engines down for a full inspection and if anything shows an indication of failure or exhibits a wear pattern that would lead to failure, then that component must be analyzed and a solution found to prevent the failure. Then it is back to the 300-hour test!
So whatever they have done in terms of the valve seat and valve face -- it works!

Yeah, I've heard of this test. Isn't it the same one that Harley and Porsche did when they designed the VSCA (V-Rod) motor? If I remember correctly it is patterned after one of the straightest portions of the Autobanh (or Italy's autostrata?) which is decently high elev. (1200+ ft) and nearly up hill from the foot of where the section starts. Brutial doesn't even begin to describe it, as I think it was the first ultimate durability test, and when a car passed that on it's own, it was said to be good to go. Now of course with the dynos, they can make them go through this test over and over and over...again without actually running the car @ WOT in this senario.
Old 05-17-2005, 10:09 PM
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So how many prototype bowite GEN III blocks does GM have testing so far?

Don't ask them, TELL them they need to build these.
Old 05-18-2005, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by XLR8NSS
So how many prototype bowite GEN III blocks does GM have testing so far?

Don't ask them, TELL them they need to build these.

Yeah, and any more info about these supposed Aussie blocks and the "rumored" 5 headbolt design? Things are gonna get real interesting when racers shift from SBC over to Gen III sportsmen blocks.

Another thing that would help perpetuate this progression along would be if the ilks of NASCAR and NHRA got rid of the 4bbls and allowed EFI + Coil on Plug ignition.
Old 06-06-2005, 01:29 AM
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For those that keep commenting on the "down under" blocks, OUT WITH THE INFO , if you can. [/QUOTE]


YES do tell!
Old 06-06-2005, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SEARAYH20-ski
For those that keep commenting on the "down under" blocks, OUT WITH THE INFO , if you can.


YES do tell![/QUOTE]

There is some info in this thread here starting around post #24 or so.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/330018-4-125-world-products-bare-block.html
Old 06-07-2005, 06:12 AM
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a bowtie GEN III block would be very cool, now that begs the question, GM could go into its parts bin and dig out an LS7 rotating assembly and a set of LS7 heads or GMPP (lpe heads) all of a sudden you have a budget high performance 500hp GEN III crate engine.

Yeah I could vouch interest in an iron Bowtie GEN III block, would be nice if they could incorperate the one hole (alternator) that needs to be drilled on iron block swaps. Priority oiling, billet main caps too? Under $1800?
Old 06-07-2005, 01:14 PM
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There is some info in this thread here starting around post #24 or so.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330018[/QUOTE]


Thanks, New reading material
Great more ideas
think i need a drink lol
Old 06-07-2005, 02:30 PM
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Do the C5R blocks have provisions for knock sensors? That's just a curiousity question.
Old 06-07-2005, 02:38 PM
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Thanks for the update.
Old 06-08-2005, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sb427f-car
Do the C5R blocks have provisions for knock sensors? That's just a curiousity question.
TTT?

I just got to hear and SEE a sponsers C5R BLOCK in person & hope to take a ride maybe this weekend,
IT sounded GOOD and looking forward to finding out some Hp #'s
But He's very happy with it over the resleeved. HIS 2 C
Its in a Z06
Old 06-08-2005, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by m6z
I would be in for a bigbore and/or tall deck bowtie block.
Big bore here, bigger the better.

Brandon
Old 06-12-2005, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by parts@sdpc
12480030 C5R Blocks
Lots of discussion and little truth! So let’s clear the air about these blocks.
Number 1 - They are expensive for a reason and not because GM wants to bend you over and make you pay! Below is an abbreviated version of the C5R block process.!

Nicky Fowler
GM Performance Guru &
Chief Gearhead @ SDPC
Nicky,

I am new to the forum regarding posting, but I am certainly not new to reading, I read on a regular basis. Being that you chose to setup like this I felt the need to share something with you and GM.

First, I have never bought anything but GM cars my whole life, it started with a chevette, and today I own 3 2004 GM cars. So I have a great love for the product and company, regardless of how bad they are currently doing.

Regarding the C5-R block, I have a very close friend, that purchsed one of these blocks from your company. As he tells it, he had considered the Darton sleeve, but opted for the C5-R as it was suppose to be everything you typed that it was.

On a Normally asperated setup, using the internals that he purchsed from Katech, rods, crank, pistons, all the same parts that are used in the C5-R program at the time with the car making 600RWHP had the #1 cylinder liner crack about a 1/4 inch from the top down all the way through the sleeve on the side of the very thin water jacket wall.

Can you please explain to me and all of the other people listed here how that might happen on a block with the description that you gave at the top of this thread. I could not get him to come on here and post, because he did not want to start anything. I unfortunately am not the same. He spent $5200 for that block, and in my opinion, that should not have ever happened. Not unless the block was dropped. He does not even race the car, we are talking just everyday kind of driving.

After everything you had to say I can say this, THIS WAS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT plain and simple and if GM is reading these threads, GM OWES HIM HIS MONEY BACK. I have personally examined the Darton MID sleeve block and I can tell you that the Darton setup is a much stronger sleeve.

I am sorry to have to present the news like this, but as I am sure there are many success stories, there are many others that have had this problem, For $5200.00, it is not worth the money not when so many others have made over 1000 HP on the LS6 block. Perhaps GM would not have lost to the Bently had they used the LS6. (I dont believe that, but I had to say it anyway)

Again sorry that I could not get him to post his story, perhaps your company should step up and offer him a refund as you feel so highly about this engine block.

Good luck selling your bill of goods to some other sucker.
All of that extra work that they did to that block did not make any differnce.

Signed
Not Buying the hype,
Old 06-13-2005, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by raptor1
Nicky,

I am new to the forum regarding posting, but I am certainly not new to reading, I read on a regular basis. Being that you chose to setup like this I felt the need to share something with you and GM.

First, I have never bought anything but GM cars my whole life, it started with a chevette, and today I own 3 2004 GM cars. So I have a great love for the product and company, regardless of how bad they are currently doing.

Regarding the C5-R block, I have a very close friend, that purchsed one of these blocks from your company. As he tells it, he had considered the Darton sleeve, but opted for the C5-R as it was suppose to be everything you typed that it was.

On a Normally asperated setup, using the internals that he purchsed from Katech, rods, crank, pistons, all the same parts that are used in the C5-R program at the time with the car making 600RWHP had the #1 cylinder liner crack about a 1/4 inch from the top down all the way through the sleeve on the side of the very thin water jacket wall.

Can you please explain to me and all of the other people listed here how that might happen on a block with the description that you gave at the top of this thread. I could not get him to come on here and post, because he did not want to start anything. I unfortunately am not the same. He spent $5200 for that block, and in my opinion, that should not have ever happened. Not unless the block was dropped. He does not even race the car, we are talking just everyday kind of driving.

After everything you had to say I can say this, THIS WAS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT plain and simple and if GM is reading these threads, GM OWES HIM HIS MONEY BACK. I have personally examined the Darton MID sleeve block and I can tell you that the Darton setup is a much stronger sleeve.

I am sorry to have to present the news like this, but as I am sure there are many success stories, there are many others that have had this problem, For $5200.00, it is not worth the money not when so many others have made over 1000 HP on the LS6 block. Perhaps GM would not have lost to the Bently had they used the LS6. (I dont believe that, but I had to say it anyway)

Again sorry that I could not get him to post his story, perhaps your company should step up and offer him a refund as you feel so highly about this engine block.

Good luck selling your bill of goods to some other sucker.
All of that extra work that they did to that block did not make any differnce.

Signed
Not Buying the hype,
I can't comment about your friends experiences but I have seen several lsx blocks with split liners caused by detonation spikes so it's the liner that's weak not the actual block itself imho.

Mike.



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