Monello

iTrader: (1)

I bought an MTI T1 cam from a member on this board, came today, but i was talkin to some people and found out that a 114 is recommended for an Auto. So should i sell this and get a 114 or can i get this 112 to work since i heard it has a badass lope =).

Thanks Guys

think its 221/221 568/568 112

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

I'm running 112 in my auto see sig. It'll lope alright you'll have to increase the hole in your throttle body to keep it from dying at stopsigns and stuff. make sure you have a good set of drill bits up to 1/4" in diameter and increase a 64th at a time untill you can start it and the computer closes the IAC completely and its still turning 500 rpms or so and you'll be good to go. Then you'll need to get it tuned to get the most out of it but that will get it driveable untill you can get it tuned. Where are you located at? Someone on here is bound to be near you and know where you can get it tuned at.

Monello

iTrader: (1)

sweet, so what do u recommend i get to complete the project. The guy i bought it from was using LS6 valve springs, i heard their good to .600. Also should i upgrade to the LS2 chain since its a direct swap and only 30 bucks. Will the existing pushrods work?

If u could list all the parts required to do the cam swap that would be great. And i would like to get it tuned once i get everything installed. I currently have pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch Y, and Hooker Exhaust, and Lid.

Thanks for your help,
Pat

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

You'll need a new balancer bolt, 7.4" push rods, and I got a gasket kit from one of the sponsors as well. LS6 springs should be ok, but I'd get comp 918s. Chain/Oil pump is up to you. If its <2001 oil pumps not a bad idea. I'd get an LS2 chain if you're going to do the chain. If you haven't already read it, this will help tons.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

I run a MTI X1 on a 112 LS in my automatic.

Monello

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that stock pushrods are 7.4 so is replacing them with new ones a good idea then?

And which sponser did u use for the gasket kit.

Thanks

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

well from what I've been told ls6 springs are good to .550. I'd use comp cams 918 springs since alot of guys on here are running larger cams than you are and are getting long life from them. You need to replace the factory pushrods for sure they bend in factory motors no tell what will happen with the force of performance valve springs ontop of them. As for the chain its really up to you I reused the stock chain which really makes the swap fast since when you reuse it you don't have to pull the oil pump or crank sprocket. Be sure to do the valve springs first if you have to drive the car everyday because if you don't get them all in with a stock cam no big deal, you put the cam in and can't get the valve springs in you will be driving to work praying you don't break a spring, put the pushrods in with the new valve springs. I used my stock cam to break in my 918s so when I got time to put my cam in I was able to play instead of waiting.

You need the following things to do the job right.
gaskets -- get the ones from gm
pushrods -- as stated
valve springs
new crank bolt
a way of driving the crank pulley back on (long bolt, harmanic balancer installer with m16x 1.75, I think maybe its 1.5 thread, adapetor)
3 jaw puller
a quart of oil extra and enough to change oil and filter soon after swap you'll get dirt in the engine from your hands and probably some coolant from the water pump passages inside the timing chain area so an oil change within 50-100 miles is recommended for sure.
a pry bar through the inspection cover to hold the flywheel when removeing crank bolt (my 1/2 ir Ti couldn't break loose the crank bolt on mine better have a good break over and pipe)
3/16 rod and 5/16 rod for holding lifters up (you can get a 3 ft piece of each for like $4 at lowes which is cheap insurance ask anyone thats dropped a lifter)
larry tool style valve spring compressor.
air hold adapter to hold valve up while changing valve springs you do not want to drop a valve. if you don't want to do this or the 2 rods to hold up the lifters then look at a set of head bolts and head gaskets, a few bucks for those items is well worth it when you factor the cost of pulling the heads off.

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

I have a spare front cover gasket if you want it from Gm (they somehow stuck 2 in a package of 1) you want it make an offer and I'll send it your way.

kickassT/A

iTrader: (3)

ls6 springs are a no go. specs for a t1 are 221 221 .558 .558 lsa 112 on a comp xer lobe. you'll need a set of 918's and 7.4 hardend pushrods. with a good tune and a stall a 112lsa is no problem for an a4.

Monello

iTrader: (1)

thanks a lot guys for all the info.

PREDATOR-Z

That is true for such a small cam but for higher durations on 112 and A4, you might run into vacuum problems which are solved by vacuum canisters.

Tune is the name of the game.