ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

It's huge if you can feel it with your hand. If you can BARELY feel it with your nail, then it may be alright. Other than that, it is huge.

Adrenaline_Z

Please forgive me members and mods because I'm about to hi-jack this
thread...but for good reason.

I've been plagued by some members on this board because I don't own an
LS1; therefore my opinion and tech advice seems to be worthless.

Well here's a heads up to those following Predator_Z's information:

OK people, this line is important. Remember this for later in the post.

0.008" is the thickness of about 5 sheets of regular bond paper. Predator_Z
says that shaving the piston crown by 0.008" creates a hole.

You should get the facts before posting "Mr. Predator_Z". Just letting you know
that your almighty LS1 piston couldn't withstand combustion forces with a
0.008" crown

From what I've been studying, skirt coating is for heat transfer to the cylinder
wall,
and reduced friction. Last time I checked the skirt doesn't get touched when
you resurface a piston...ummm...so... NO, YOU WONT HAVE TO RE-COAT the
skirt.

FYI: If you direct any more BS toward me, I'll notify a moderator and have you banned.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Those pistons have been flycut on the intakes, I'm guessing maybe .030. Minimal cut. Other things also have been going on in that combustion chamber. I don't know that's enough to kill the short block, but it's not very pretty.

PREDATOR-Z

This is what I'm reffering to when I tell you to read and learn, instead of acting like king knowledge on LSx motors.
FYI, the pistons on LS1 motors come out of the hole by an AVERAGE of .007/.008 (stock blocks), so if you shaved more than that and put it back together, your pistons will end up in the hole which is inside the cylinder in case you do not know that.

Stock LS1 motors have been plagued with something called piston slap (there even was a court ruling on that), so after time the coated skirts loose that coating from slapping against the cyl. wall. That is why i said that reusing LS1 pistons unless undamaged is not as cost effective as you think.

LOL,... You can run home to mommy too for all I care.

Sorry but you are officially

Adrenaline_Z

Oh wow, I didn't know that cutting the piston down would cause it to sit
lower in the bore.

Thank you for pointing that out Captain Obvious!

If you knew the difference, you should have said that compression would
have been reduced by about 0.2:1, instead of saying, "It would create a hole
situtation" That must be an LS1 scientific term?

I think you messed up and are covering for it after I made you look bad.

As for running to mommy, I did that yesterday for Mother's Day. I don't
need some jealous fool such as yourself trying to make me look bad when I'm
relaxing and posting about cars after a long day.

You're just mad because I kicked your *** all over that nitrous post. Now
you come chasing me at any chance and pick out stupid little things that
don't pertain to you. It's funny how more people are on my side, than yours
concerning this issue

P.S. Check your camshaft post you rookie. If you were so damn smart,
you'd know the answer to your own post. You might want to learn the difference
between centerlines, separation angles and advance grinds

(sorry to the others for getting off topic, but this loser is getting on my case)

98Raptor

I would hone the cylinders and do some Diamond pistons then. But that is just me.

Chris

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I wish I had a riced out z28 and an ls1 superiority complex

777

iTrader: (21)

i wish i knew why everyone was picking on someone who knows what they are talking about...even people with 8 posts haha...i would also love to see someone try and get predator-z banned...he's been on this board and provided TONS of USEFUL information for a long time...if anyone will be banned it's trolls with a few posts posting retarded comments...

as to the thread i would show those pics to a builder and see what he thinks about cleaning up the bores...if it can be done i'd check to see if it is beneficial to fix the pistons...just see if the cost is worth what you are getting...if it can't i'd get a forged shortblock...if you plan on doing anything major in the future might as well save money in the long run and get the forged shortblock now...i would get a forged shortblock no matter what...they aren't very expensive and you will prolly need one eventually

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

Why dont we just start up a thread so you can fight w/ everyone. Predator Z has posted numberous things have have helped me and I have never found anything wrong with it.

Adrenaline_Z

I have PM'd Predator_Z and we'll handle this off-line thank you.

I'm not here to fight with anyone. I'm here to help and learn.

Some people can't accept advice from a non LS1 owner, but when an LS1
owner offers stupid advice, it is over looked.

Out of my 126+ posts, there have been three heavily challenged posts in the
past week from five specific users. Everyone else seems cool.

If you, or anyone else wants to confront me about my tech posts, we can
continue in the lounge as per moderator instructions.

PM me the link and I'll be there. I wish not to discuss this any further in the
Tech forums. Getting banned over this nonsense is just dumb.

ZULater01

iTrader: (1)

I hope you weren't refering to Tiger's post, if so then you can gladly step out of this post. He didn't say anything rude to you. Just stating the obvious, that too much bickering came in this thread.

You and everyone else has realyl helped me in this post,and as of now I am looking forged 347...I don't know enought to do the bottom end myself...I would like to just hone it and insall forged pistons, arp rod bolts, etc. but don't know how to do all of that. Right now I only have about $1000 and not $2300 for a whole shortblock. Anyone know how much it would be to hone the block to a 347 and install some forged pistons and arp bolts?

Adrenaline_Z

I'm not referring to Tiger, and no he wasn't rude to me.

So I've come across as the bad guy...but few of you know the history.

All you're seeing now is my defense to a certain few. I wish this would all
just stop.

If you want more details, PM me and I can explain.

Back on topic:

Honing a block isn't that much at all (<$100 CDN). Hopefully the sleeves aren't damaged
beyond a hone.

Good luck!

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

The real big expense in honing comes from honing/re-sleeving/and possibly honing again to get to the bore you want.

jub jub

Since you're broke, put the engine back together and call it a day. The dimples are no worse than a fly-cut which guys do all the time who run big cams. Scratches in the cylinder you can live with.

777

iTrader: (21)

you know there's more to a forged engine than a hone and pistons...you'd be better off and get some forged rods as well...if you are going to do some of it, you might as well save and do all of it...i'm sure you would be happier

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Adrenaline_Z, what is meant by running into the "in the hole" situation is that the piston does not pop up out of its bore by .007. It is not that the crown is only .008 thick and that youll put a physical hole in the top of the piston. It is quite commonly referred to as "in the hole" or "out of the hole" on ls1tech.com. The probles is that with a .042 gasket you used to get an optimum .035 quench, while now you get a full .042 or bigger quench which is less than optimum on these motors.

As a friendly aside, perhaps if you dont start out thinking that every post made is a personal attack or a challenge on your engine knowledge you might be able to read posts with an open mind. Theres a reason why its standard procedure to lurk for a while on any message board before posting info that may not jive with things that are specific to these engines or even to this board. It is neither constructive nor helpful to read and make posts with the sole intention of proving others wrong. Its simply a pissing match, and it wont gain you any popularity or special recognition here. Justify things as you feel fit to, but anyone here has atleast a passable knowledge of the internet and a disposition towards things mechanical, we are not just bunch of inbred redneck hicks, and we know when someone is trolling. As an impartial observer, someone who hasnt really had any beef with you before hand, i just wanted to warn you as to how your recent posts have been coming off to the casual observer. I mean no offense by this.

-Tony

Adrenaline_Z

Thanks for the reply. I have been a member of this board for a while, but
started posting regularly just recently.

The counter measure for decking a piston is to install a thinner head gasket
to restore quench and compression.

Since the head is already off, this is a very feasible solution.

I apologize for not knowing the term "hole situtation". I refer to this as "piston to deck height".