With this cam is programming necessary????
Anyone that says otherwise doesn't know what he is talking about.
As a matter of fact, 95% of any mods will require pcm updating for optimum benefit. Otherwise why mod?
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A small cam only might get you 40hp max tuned or 10>15 untuned.
So you spend around 700>1000 bucks for 10>15 rwhp but not another 450 for 20 more?
Not to mention that you will tune for all your other mods.
Tune is the best bang for the buck mod. Won't void a warranty either (because it's undetectible currently). Have the car scanned and see where things are. I wouldn't waste my money on a handheld scanner when you can get the codes pulled at AZ for free.
My cam'd car after changing to: MAC's w/ ORY, LS6 intake, stock TB ported = 317 RWHP/346RWTQ BEFORE TUNING
360 RWHP/375RWTQ AFTER TUNING
Let's see, that's $500 + 300 + 130 = $930 which lost me 18 RWHP/3 RWTQ
Tuning gave me 43 RWHP/ 29 RWTQ
Point is:
If you mod your car, you don't always gain power/torque ... depends on what the mods are. I don't think a dollar amount for power can be determined accurately unless you tune your mods in. So, the $930 + $450 = $1,380 ... the cost of a premium set of headers ... for 43 RWHP/ 29 RWTQ.
I'm with PREDATOR-Z Aand Tech ... ONLY MAKES SENSE TO TUNE (IMHO). From experience, handhelds are hit-or-miss.
Once I re-did my exhaust and intake stuff, it was so rich that it killed anything the handheld ever did for the old setup. If you mod your car, tuning will get the most out of it. I don't think anyone could argue that.
I know a lot of people who still curse their handhelds because thet did get the benefits I did out of mine. They're great for the basic stuff like shift points, knocking down the rev limiter, reading codes and the like, but, you really can't do any power tuning from them ... as stated, they're hit or miss for power, especially if you have a cam or most bolt-ons.






