bcrishon

I have just put on an LS6 intake, and a comp cam that is .515 .522 lift. It is a pretty mild cam for lower RPM's, I was wondering if I really need to reprogram or not. If so, will I notice a huge difference? I really, unforunetly, did not notice a real difference at all with these two items. I just want to make sure that I am not going to damage anything if I choose to get it reprogrammed down the road later!!

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I don't think it is necessary, but may help gain a few HP/TQ. My comp cam is a xr269hr with 216/220 and .525/.532 lift on 114. I noticed a big difference in power from stock, noticeable idle change and car still ran pretty good. It fired right up and stayed running. I tuned it and gained 12 HP and about 13 TQ. I don't think with the cost it would be worth your dollars.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

If anything just find someone who has LS1edit that would help you out a bit in getting your A/F and VE tables smoothed out a bit. If you don't have that hookup, it isn't worth paying for a full tune, although some shops do just do some minor tuning off the dyno for much less.

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

Another option is a bin file that has similar numbers but not as radical. After you contact your tuner have them analyze the cams already with a reference number and a mail order tune is what it's called. If you have an option for hptuner or other software to analyze and upload a cleaner file similar to that one, chances are it will have tables that are better calibrated than simply running a stock tune file.

PREDATOR-Z

Any cam change will require tuning.
Anyone that says otherwise doesn't know what he is talking about.

As a matter of fact, 95% of any mods will require pcm updating for optimum benefit. Otherwise why mod?

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

The net result is, smaller cams can utilize tuning just as larger cams. A quick search on various cam applications may not be unequivocal, but regardless of finding cam idle there are a well of other things to finalize such as ve and maf codes.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I am not saying that he couldn't benefit from tuning with a small cam. But if the car will still drive fine, only with more power, then why get it if the cost is high?

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

A good cheap solution that you can use for many things is the Crane handheld programmer. It has 4 different levels of cams to tune for and you can change it a bit after that(spark,fuel). It's not dead on like a dyno tune, but you can use it to read trouble codes and other mods as you get them.

PREDATOR-Z

Because it will get you more power, better fuel efficiency, no chance of running lean at high rpm, it will drive smoother etc....
A small cam only might get you 40hp max tuned or 10>15 untuned.
So you spend around 700>1000 bucks for 10>15 rwhp but not another 450 for 20 more?
Not to mention that you will tune for all your other mods.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

True, no dispute there. Depends on how much more the buyer wants to spend. When I did my cam, I was on a budget and had to wait a few more months for tuning.

Tech

iTrader: (1)

WTF? 12-15 rwhp isn't worth a $400-500 bucks? Why are you guys buying headers for $1200 and getting 20. Or an ASP pulley that makes 5-8 or $225?

Tune is the best bang for the buck mod. Won't void a warranty either (because it's undetectible currently). Have the car scanned and see where things are. I wouldn't waste my money on a handheld scanner when you can get the codes pulled at AZ for free.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

My cam'd car: JBA shorties w/ Random Tech high-flow catted Y, stock TB, LS1 intake tuned = 335 RWHP/349 RWTQ

My cam'd car after changing to: MAC's w/ ORY, LS6 intake, stock TB ported = 317 RWHP/346RWTQ BEFORE TUNING
360 RWHP/375RWTQ AFTER TUNING

Let's see, that's $500 + 300 + 130 = $930 which lost me 18 RWHP/3 RWTQ

Tuning gave me 43 RWHP/ 29 RWTQ

Point is:
If you mod your car, you don't always gain power/torque ... depends on what the mods are. I don't think a dollar amount for power can be determined accurately unless you tune your mods in. So, the $930 + $450 = $1,380 ... the cost of a premium set of headers ... for 43 RWHP/ 29 RWTQ.

I'm with PREDATOR-Z Aand Tech ... ONLY MAKES SENSE TO TUNE (IMHO). From experience, handhelds are hit-or-miss.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Handhelds ARE hit or miss, but if you have an A/F gauge you can get very close. I also plan to dyno it soon and after each pull I plan to change the fuel and advance and see what the dyno says. I like working on my own car. My car has never had anyone else turn a wrech on it and if it has a problem I want to see what's going on in my garage without limping to Auto Zone to scan and the handheld makes that possible. I might be leaving 10 hp on the table..... the trade off is worth it to me. Crane does have an awesome deal.

my01camaroz28

iTrader: (15)

I agree with the above stated.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well, my Superchips handheld was a remarkable success with my old setup. It was necessary and it set my car up really good. I veered too far away from stock, so, I went with a professional tune and the first 'professional tune' only gave me 3 more RWHP and about 5 RWTQ over the handheld.

Once I re-did my exhaust and intake stuff, it was so rich that it killed anything the handheld ever did for the old setup. If you mod your car, tuning will get the most out of it. I don't think anyone could argue that.

I know a lot of people who still curse their handhelds because thet did get the benefits I did out of mine. They're great for the basic stuff like shift points, knocking down the rev limiter, reading codes and the like, but, you really can't do any power tuning from them ... as stated, they're hit or miss for power, especially if you have a cam or most bolt-ons.