Cam postion sensor high error after cam swap
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Cam postion sensor high error after cam swap Awww ****!
Been three days after my f-13 cam swap and my tach suddenly stopped working on my way home. I turned up code p0343, cam position sensor high input. When i reset the code, it comes back instantly and the tach goes dead again. What could cause this? Im worried that the cam bolts have loosened up and the cam has walked backwards. I did locktite these bolts. Any other ideas on what I could check before i take tomorrow off work to tear this apart again?
Thanks,
-Tony
Been three days after my f-13 cam swap and my tach suddenly stopped working on my way home. I turned up code p0343, cam position sensor high input. When i reset the code, it comes back instantly and the tach goes dead again. What could cause this? Im worried that the cam bolts have loosened up and the cam has walked backwards. I did locktite these bolts. Any other ideas on what I could check before i take tomorrow off work to tear this apart again?
Thanks,
-Tony
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well, i pulled the intake off and cleaned off the sensor. I found a small burr stuck to it. I cleaned it off and reassembled the car. Still getting the code and the engine still runs like ***. Guess its time to see if the cam walked. 
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Its located behind the intake, right next to the oil pressure sensor. Ive got most of the front off the motor. I just have to pull the pulley again cause i cant sneak the timing cover off with it still on there. I did loctite the bolts, so i dont know if this is gonna be the problem after all.
predator, i think the pipe looking one is the oil pressure sens... the CMP is right next to it, but bolted down into the block.
predator, i think the pipe looking one is the oil pressure sens... the CMP is right next to it, but bolted down into the block.
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HOLY ****!!! I am one lucky bastard! The cam has indeed walked. Tightened one of the cam bolts and the cam pulled forward... The other bolts then looked like they had about .060 - .075 space. The cam must have walked back about 1/16 of a inch before the sensor picked up on it. Thank god the cam reluctor design can sense the circle when its not properly reading on the track. My guess is that I used old loctite. I noticed a leak in the tube even with the cover on, but i didnt think anything of it when i used it originally. Maybe the air leak let all the catalyst out of the tube or something. Maybe i simply didnt use enough. Anyway, please let this be a warning to all you cam swappers to use new and good loctite when cam swapping, and torque accordingly. Not doing so could be a $6K mistake.
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Predator... thats the one... on the left in the block, not the one sticking up. Mine had a shaving stuck to it, but that wasnt the problem.
Glad you found the problem soon enough!
This is why I never advise shortcuts and that clearance specs should be measured correctly, same goes for trq specs.
Enjoy!!!
Man, makes me want to seriously consider that new QTP two piece timing cover, might come in handy for a easy fix like that. Pulling that crank pulley is a pain, and you have to set that bolt so tight that it only a matter of time before snap. Glad you found your problem.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
This is why I never advise shortcuts and that clearance specs should be measured correctly, same goes for trq specs.
Enjoy!!!
Enjoy!!!
Im on my way to buy some new loctite now. Last edited by GuitsBoy; Jun 16, 2005 at 07:43 PM.
Makes me wonder if I should go back into the engine and put locktite on the bolts...I have had the cam in there after tightening for about 3,000 miles. Would the ses light come on soon enough so that I don't have a problem, or should I go and re-tighten?
Hmm, why does this sound so familiar?
Same exact ******* thing happened to my buddy's 408 built by APE but we didn't catch the cam bolts backing out in time. Didn't last more than a thousand miles. I have some neato pictures of the end result, damn good thing you caught it in time.
Same exact ******* thing happened to my buddy's 408 built by APE but we didn't catch the cam bolts backing out in time. Didn't last more than a thousand miles. I have some neato pictures of the end result, damn good thing you caught it in time.
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Well, My SES light did go on and the car was running like crap cause it couldnt read the cam position, and the tach stopped working too. I wouldnt guarantee that all engines will set the SES light once it walks 1/16" though. 777, if you want to go back in, you dont need to pull the radiator, just disconnect the hoses from the waterpump, pull the pump, the pulley and the timing cover. Loctite till your hearts content, then reassemble. I shouldnt take me more than a couple of hours all said and done. Ive been juggling projects between the car and working from home today, otherwise it would have been done already.
