Forged 6.0 shortblock, how strong??
06-22-2005, 06:15 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by liftin'em on nittos
lots of $$$ is definatly true, it's all worth it in the end though when you have a hella fast car that you can still drive to work on monday. good luck
It is worth it in the end after all the time, $$$ , and cussing it will take to do what I want. This is my weekend toy I have a 4cyl. ford ranger to get me to work and back......I am an electrican and drive 400-500 miles a week that I dont want on my car. Then trying to keep it clean driving to construction sites would be another job in itself.
06-22-2005, 10:02 PM
#22
HP has nothing to do with rods I honestly don't mean to **** in your cheerios, but horsepower ratings have no place when evaluating the strength of rods and rod bolts.
Rods break at TDC when the exhaust and/or intake valves are open. The tensile (pulling) load peaks here. This load is just a function of weight of the piston and engine speed. The faster you spin the engine, the higher the tensile (pulling) loads on the rod and rod bolts and THAT'S IT. The only way to increase the tensile load on the rod is to spin it faster (run at higher RPM's) or make the piston or rod heavier.
The other load you can put on a rod is a compressive (pushing together) load. That load peaks at BDC. This is where the most pressure is put on the main bearings. Show me a rod or rod bolts that failed at BDC (that wasn't a result of a piston failing first.)
I think a lot of the blanket horsepower ratings assume you have to hit higher RPM's to make more horsepower which is not always true.
That stock crank is VERY strong. You are not going to break it - your main caps will walk around before you break the crank. If you plan on running a huge nitrous shot, you need some good pistons!!
Rods break at TDC when the exhaust and/or intake valves are open. The tensile (pulling) load peaks here. This load is just a function of weight of the piston and engine speed. The faster you spin the engine, the higher the tensile (pulling) loads on the rod and rod bolts and THAT'S IT. The only way to increase the tensile load on the rod is to spin it faster (run at higher RPM's) or make the piston or rod heavier.
The other load you can put on a rod is a compressive (pushing together) load. That load peaks at BDC. This is where the most pressure is put on the main bearings. Show me a rod or rod bolts that failed at BDC (that wasn't a result of a piston failing first.)
I think a lot of the blanket horsepower ratings assume you have to hit higher RPM's to make more horsepower which is not always true.
That stock crank is VERY strong. You are not going to break it - your main caps will walk around before you break the crank. If you plan on running a huge nitrous shot, you need some good pistons!!
Originally Posted by PappyDan
well we have two types of 6.0 now don't we, a LQ 4 And the LQ 9,
the LQ 9 built with stronger stock parts then the LQ 4. now every book you can pick up on building a high performance LS block make the same statement on how much horse power the internal parts can with stand, these books also tell you to replace the stock rod bolts with ARP blots because the stock blots will not hold.
as for the blanket statement as noted by IMD, knowledge of his wisdom is shown in his sig.
the cam he is using is too big for the flow rate of the 6.0 heads with out porting and larger valves being placed in, the intake should always be lower then the lift on the exhaust for a turbo and the LSA should be wider to avoid overlap on the valves, I am sure the cam works but one made to match the flow rate of the heads and for a turbo set up will yield more horse power then what he has now.
as for Parish, yes I do know that he made over 700 rwhp but it was a forged and stroked 408 not a 6.0, check his sig and watch the video again.
while your looking at his video collection you will find a video on a stock 4.8 with his turbo set up and the mega squirt that made well over 500 rwhp. good video too.
the LQ 9 built with stronger stock parts then the LQ 4. now every book you can pick up on building a high performance LS block make the same statement on how much horse power the internal parts can with stand, these books also tell you to replace the stock rod bolts with ARP blots because the stock blots will not hold.
as for the blanket statement as noted by IMD, knowledge of his wisdom is shown in his sig.
the cam he is using is too big for the flow rate of the 6.0 heads with out porting and larger valves being placed in, the intake should always be lower then the lift on the exhaust for a turbo and the LSA should be wider to avoid overlap on the valves, I am sure the cam works but one made to match the flow rate of the heads and for a turbo set up will yield more horse power then what he has now.
as for Parish, yes I do know that he made over 700 rwhp but it was a forged and stroked 408 not a 6.0, check his sig and watch the video again.
while your looking at his video collection you will find a video on a stock 4.8 with his turbo set up and the mega squirt that made well over 500 rwhp. good video too.
