Hey I was wondering how many people have bought the SLP head and cam package http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=12411 that says will make 500 hp with stock bottom end, I was wanting to know if its true or over rated, I was looking at the patriot head and cam package but from reading around the form i found that they arnt that really wanted for one reason or another, anyways i was wanting to know how many people have this one or know of a alternative thats around this price, Oh also what else did you have to do (upgrade injectors, reprogram the computer, upgrade fuel pump, things like these) Thanks for every ones help!

 

I'd stay away from SLP unless you're buying a muffler or a lid. Look into PRC & TEA for good performing fairly priced heads, or AFR's and All Pro's for all out performance ($$$). Do some research and get a cam that will meet your goals.
Injectors will depend on what year your car is.
Make sure you have the supporting mods for a h/c build up (headers, LS6 intake, etc...)

 

I was wondering about the SLP package too. A friend of mine has an LS1 GTO and was looking at it. I'm kind of leary about SLP, but maybe I shouldn't be??????

 

Yeah thanks man, I'm the same way I was wanting to have some more opinions about this, my car is a 2000 Camaro with a A4 and stock everything, except lid so it'd be a better idea to go with specificly who?

 

It would be a better idea to wait until the heads and cam will perform up to their potential with supporting bolt ons. You should definatley get a torque converter before you do h/c.

 

Why a torque converter over the head and cam with the bolt on's?

 

Converter before cam. Period. You should also have at least headers and an LS6 intake manifold before getting a cam, so that you don't chocke it. The mods should be done from the outside in, with the exception of doing the cam before heads. Our stock heads flow quite well, so our stock engine is mainly cam limited.

Reasons:
1) Converter will give you a greater gain than a cam.
2) Larger cams make more of their power higher in the RPM range, so a converter makes an even bigger performance difference with an aftermarket cam than on the stock one. A larger cam on a stock converter sucks.

Search the automatic trans section for converter info. Minimum recommended if you are going with a cam is a ~3500. The larger the cam you want to get the higher stall the converter should be. You will also want to get a tranny cooler, temp gauge and shift kit. Be sure to be nice to the tranny, dont let it get too hot for any period of time (over ~225*), dont get on it if it's 200* or higher and avoid WOT downshifts such as a highway roll. (4-2 and 3-2 are the worse)

 

Thanks I'd have loaded up on the cam and probably have ignored the torque converter completely, many Thank you's

 

I have SLP's old design heads... Got them too cheap pass up, but wouldn't buy again. SLP's 500HP is probably over rated crank power. You can do MUCH better picking the parts yourself.

 

But you get a nice fender badge with the SLP stuff

 

WE have a car in our shop that had slp heads on it, we discovered that the rocker arm had broken away from the head and was laying there, what happened was the cnc program of the intake port was openened up too much and the roof was paper thin and the leverage of the rocker against the spring ripped the whole rocker petestal area of the head away and was still attached to the rocker, not pretty !

 

With regards to the verter issue.
I agree that a verter will net you better acceleration gains than a cam first. however that is why it is important to have a plan designed from the beguinning and to stick to that plan.
When you order a veter from VIG let us say or Neal Chance, they tailor it to your shift points so the verter shift extensions are compatible. So how would you give that answer unless you already have the cam or at least have chosen one?
There is where the plan comes in.

 

Ed Zachery, I'd plan the converter in. I'm not a A4 guy, but Predator has it right. You won't gain any HP by changing the converter alone. A high stall speed on a stock motor is not really a great thing either.

 

If you want to go fast it is. The fastest stock internal guys are running 4000 + (up to aroung 5000) and hauling ***.

 

Even on a stock engine a higher stall goes faster, it's just not as pronounced of a difference as it is with a big cam that NEEDS the high stall to get into it's real powerband.

 

What I meant was, a converter will get you good gains in performance. Then you choose a cam. That cam shift points then falls outside the converter shift extensions, then you'll need to restall.
Basicaly, get a verter but get one that will be matching your future cam/gear combo shiftpoints.
So you need to make that decision now, which cam will you be running? then you can get the verter first.

 

Right, "A PACKAGE" Sure you can spool up a stock engine and run it up at peak power, but if you add cam and heads to the picture... But like I said, I'm not an A4 guy so I'll leave this discussion to the right footed drivers

 

VERY good point here. I had to restall my converter from 3500 to 4000 for that reason. Selecting a cam can be very difficult though. I didn't make a final decision on what cam to get until I had texas speed on the phone to place the order.

 

Hey I was looking at the AFR Heads (part number 033-1630 over at jegs.com) and i was wondering wouldd that be a good choice? I dont know what kind of cam would match that head and what verter stall speed to get. Also dose any know if you can procharge that combo on a stock bottom end and tranny and rear end?