Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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View Poll Results: Which shortblock would you personally go with and why?
Combination MotorSports 370 Real Street?
6.56%
Horsepower Engineering 370?
24.59%
Late Model Engines 370?
40.98%
None of the above (Please post explaining why)
27.87%
Voters: 61. You may not vote on this poll

Shortblocks...Which one?

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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 03:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
BTW an iron block is 92lbs more than alum.
I'd go with LME in a heartbeat, they are having a GP on 408 right now.
I'm leaning that way heavily as I read more and more...but CMS, and HPE all have good reps on here...will be ordering Thursday night...so keep em coming. Also Predator-Z why would you choose LME over the other 2?
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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None of these three, and I do not see the point in using a heavy iron block to add only 25 cubes. You should buy based primarily on the experience of the builder and anticipated quality of the motor. I chose Futral, but I also considered W2W and dream chaser.

Remember the rules of engines: quality, quality and quality.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by bickelfirebird
None of these three, and I do not see the point in using a heavy iron block to add only 25 cubes. You should buy based primarily on the experience of the builder and anticipated quality of the motor. I chose Futral, but I also considered W2W and dream chaser.

Remember the rules of engines: quality, quality and quality.

Are you saying that these three shops don't do quality work and use quality parts? Just wondering what you're trying to say.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 05:44 PM
  #24  
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ttt more opinions please
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 06:03 PM
  #25  
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Criteria to buy a motor:
1- A shop with excellent customer service.
2- A shop that gives you the best quality for the most reasonable price.
3- A shop that will stand behind their product.
4- An experienced shop.
5- A shop that listens instead of just trying to sell.

IMO and from experience and reading a lot of feedback, LME is one of the best. Bryan is serious and commited. It shows that he actually loves what he is doing.
That is why I recommend them.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 06:26 PM
  #26  
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I voted none...I just can't justify the extra weight of an iron block and only a 24cubic inch gain. Unless you're planning on spraying the hell outta it
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #27  
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I would use an ls2 block, no sense in adding 100lbs to the nose of the car for no reason.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 06:34 PM
  #28  
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I would go ls2 402, Scoggen dickie has a good deal on them now. A friend of mine is putting one in his Z.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 06:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by byrontaylor
I don't have that much or I would be getting a 408. Also I can't wait....or dont want to anyway.
I recommend you chill out and save your money to do it RIGHT. Personally, I would not do iron and add 100lbs. Personally I would not use a short crank if you can, for no extra cost, go to a 4". And I would DEFINITELY check out SDPC for a 402 LS2.

Whatever you do, don't compromise your project for the sake of only $600! If you have to wait, WAIT!
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by black_knight
I recommend you chill out and save your money to do it RIGHT. Personally, I would not do iron and add 100lbs. Personally I would not use a short crank if you can, for no extra cost, go to a 4". And I would DEFINITELY check out SDPC for a 402 LS2.

Whatever you do, don't compromise your project for the sake of only $600! If you have to wait, WAIT!

How are you figuring no extra cost? I've been told/and read that the iron block is better for FI, Spray, and life as well...it can also hold more horsepower than an aluminum block if I remember corectly. The iron walls have some other reason that some ppl like them...this is just what i haev been told from 3-4 different shops but I can't remember exactly what it is right now...something about the heat, the walls and something else...I don't know right now. I'm sold on Iron right now...I'm just looking for other shops...and your experiences with these shops.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by byrontaylor
How are you figuring no extra cost?
Sorry, I meant that a longer crank would be essentially the same cost, not that aluminum vs iron would be the same $$. I guess I wasn't clear, there.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 07:41 PM
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I see...I didnlook at the SLP ZL402 but other ppl have had problems with them using oil...it's on the 1st page here in ls1-ls6 internal engine.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 07:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by byrontaylor
I see...I didnlook at the SLP ZL402 but other ppl have had problems with them using oil...it's on the 1st page here in ls1-ls6 internal engine.
When did I say to go with SLP?
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 08:05 PM
  #34  
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You didn't but that is a 402 option. That motor has had 2-3 cases of using oil just that I have read
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by byrontaylor
You didn't but that is a 402 option. That motor has had 2-3 cases of using oil just that I have read
Yes, but I recommended SDPC. Have you heard of an SDPC LS2 402 using oil?
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:25 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by black_knight
Yes, but I recommended SDPC. Have you heard of an SDPC LS2 402 using oil?
No I haven't but I do know that their 402 Iron block is 3600+shipping, their 402 ALuminum Block is 4000+shipping. If I were going to spend that kind of money I would buy a 408 instead of a 402. I'm just not very fond of the aluminum block at this point in time...I know it's only $600-$1000 difference, i have priced and priced for 2-3 weeks now. Yes I would love to have the 402 or the 408 for that matter...and other sponsors make the 402 as well...not just SDPC. The others I'm assumiong have had good luk with theirs as well and rightfully so. I wouldn't wish anyone a messed up deal. I have read the PCV is causing the oil consumption on SLP's 402 or at least on one so far so it may be a quick fix.

For the $500-700 dollar difference I am going to stay with a 370...for now. A 370 with 238/242 .612/.615 112 with ls6 intake, stock TB, MAF, Lid, Hooker LT's TSP Y-Pipe, and stock catback...cut out ion front of that though...should run faster than I NEED it to...it may not be as fast as I want it to though. Plus another thing is SDPC is behind about 4 weeks on these things too...that would be one of if not the only reason I would consider the ZL402. And thats not a good enough reason to me.

If you'd like to call him and get a price for a 370ci Stock crank, Forged Rod, Forged Piston and get a price that will compete with the sales that CMS, HPE, and LM are having right now, I would seriously consider them but right now I don't have the money, I am out of the car, and its been down for about 2 months as I have looked into all of this and this is what i have came up with. Find me a 408 or 402 (other than SLP's) for ~3400 shipped and I'll take it as long as its from a reputable shop that will stand by their product.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Criteria to buy a motor:
1- A shop with excellent customer service.
2- A shop that gives you the best quality for the most reasonable price.
3- A shop that will stand behind their product.
4- An experienced shop.
5- A shop that listens instead of just trying to sell.

IMO and from experience and reading a lot of feedback, LME is one of the best. Bryan is serious and commited. It shows that he actually loves what he is doing.
That is why I recommend them.

Thanks alot...I value your opinion. you have never lead me wrong on the past.
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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 11:49 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by byrontaylor
No I haven't but I do know that their 402 Iron block is 3600+shipping, their 402 ALuminum Block is 4000+shipping. If I were going to spend that kind of money I would buy a 408 instead of a 402.
Okay, so you're an iron guy. That's cool; not my thing, but no problem. I would still advise you to seriously consider waiting, saving your money, and doing the 408. It will cost you less to do it now than to do the 370 now and convert to a 408 later.

I you're absolutely positive that the 370 is enough and you'll never ever ever ever want to do the 408, then go for it. Otherwise, you're throwing your money away.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 12:09 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by black_knight
Okay, so you're an iron guy. That's cool; not my thing, but no problem. I would still advise you to seriously consider waiting, saving your money, and doing the 408. It will cost you less to do it now than to do the 370 now and convert to a 408 later.

I you're absolutely positive that the 370 is enough and you'll never ever ever ever want to do the 408, then go for it. Otherwise, you're throwing your money away.

Well....I learned a long time ago to never say never. I am not saying that I wont ever go to a 408. But what i am saying is the stock crank, with the shorter stroke does a couple advantages from what I've been told with the red line. So, assuming the valvetrain is up to it...the red line, I've been told, would be 7200 to 7600!! Thats impressive...sounds like a damned ol Honda's redline. With the longer stroke crank that would be reduced to say 6700-7100 rpm. Not that big of a difference but hell...it's a starting point IMO. I'll need to get FAST 90/90, MAF, K&N FIPK, Catback, Heads, Cam, n2o wet kit, and 9" rear end (this will probably be next). Then when I'm ready and Rich....408 and FI will all go in together...change the pistons, change the crank, and kaboom we start all over again...in a dream world...but it won't work that way.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by byrontaylor
I am buying a shortblock in the near future (within a week or two)
Call Brad Klein at dream chaser racing engines at 806-371-7288. Brad is in Amarillo and has been a Pro Stock and racing engine builder since 1972. One of his motors set the NHRA "B Dragster" national record a week ago and he holds other NHRA records. He has an LS1 block, crank, rods and pistons in his shop as we speak and will be happy to build you a reliable short block.

His 445 cid motor makes 1240 hp!
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