I know short stroke redlines are impressive, but what does that redline GET you? If the 4" makes more power at 6700 than the stock one at 7600, then you have to bear that in mind. Plus, with the stock crank, you have to spend all that extra money on a valvetrain that will handle 7600, and that money would pay for the crank. Plus you'll have to change springs more often, etc, etc.

So bear all that in mind.

As for money now vs later, hey, if you're going to be rich later on, then do whatever the hell you want!

 

You have made several good points throughout this thread but the bottom line still remains the same. I don't have the extra $600-$1,000 for the 408/402 Stroker. Thats about what the difference is in price wouldn't you agree? And my car has been down 2-3months now and I am just ready SO READY to get it back going. By next week I won't care if it has a 4 cylinder I am so ready to get it back. And to me the 370 will meet and exceed all of my needs for nowvs waiting the extra 3-4 weeks to order and getting a 408 and wind up waiting 2 months on a motor!!! When I say I will be upgrading to a 408 I mean possibly 2-3 years down the road. I'll bew lucky if the 370 lasts that long.

 

Cool man, glad I could help. If you're going into this with your eyes open to all your options, that's all I intended to provide.

 

Thanks alot for the help and concern...I'll let you know how it all turns out in a month or two with a little luck.

 

Give me a call too Byron tomorrow and I will see what I can do. The iron block is hands down better in every way but weight of course. I have three 6.0s right now so that would be easy. I have been building LS1 stuff since they came out and also did the first real solid roller that worked at SAM with Judson where I still also work as an instructor. We ran in the tens and the nines NA before most people were even running that on power adders and we've run as fast as 154mph NA at 3300 pounds. The larger bore of the iron 6.0 block engine will also allow better heads to work. I can answer about any question as well that you might have since I do this stuff for real everyday.

 

I think I know a guy who used to work for Brad if I remember correctly!

 

I'm RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE of building my 408...... let me tell you this: being in a RUSH will make you regretthings down the road! i voted none of the above because i dont think an additional 24 cubes is worth going iron (unless your spraying a SHITLOAD of nitrous) since your dead set on going iron (good choice btw ) I say WAIT AND SAVE UP the additional money (few hundred bucks) for a 408, if you go this route you'lll be 1000% happier down the road.

 

I will call you first thing in the morning when I wake up (probably around 11 am)

I am seriously considering waiting now...one of the shops said they would let me pay for the parts then pay for the labor when the block was finished...I may get a 408 and do it that way...I think I would wind up paying 2600~ now an dthe rest $1000~ later...we'll see what works out. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED



Also I will need a bigger cam...I have a Comp 228/228 .538/.538 114 brand new that I'd willing to trade for a used cam with ~235/~610 if you guys know anyone that would interested or I could send them some cash to go along with it...depending on which cam it is.

 

I will be calling all three companies TODAY and if anyone has any other info please call me on my cell at 870.413.9304. I will be out of town for 1-2 days then will be placing order when I return (friday) or may place it when I return. I appreciate all the help in making the decision, everyone that showed the other options as well...black_knight...but at this point in time I am still uncertain who to go with...I guess I will let price decide...I will post up Friday and let you guys know...ttyl

Byron

 

Hi Byron,

Let price and quality decide. Get the most quality for the buck.

 

Brad's very meticulous, so I would guess that he is difficult for work for as an employee. But he knows power making secrets that only he and Pro Stock friends of his like David Reher know. Hell, I own one of his 622 bbc motors and won't even tell me all the tricks he used on it. The fact that he can make 1260 hp from a 445 cid n/a motor says a lot.

 

I chose none of the above because, I think its much better to build the engine EXACTLY for what you want it for. LME does awesome machine work, so I'd get the parts I want in the block and send it away just my .02cents though

 

Just so everyone will know...I will be waiting to buy a 408. I figure I am spending $3000-$3100 so why not wait and get a 408 for $600-$700 more. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP IN MAKING THIS DECISION TO WAIT...I have also decided on a shop just so you know as well. HPE has been the best as far as staying on touch and I think they will be in the future as well and they seem to know what they are doing and also have a ton of good feedback on here as well. I'm not taking anything away from LME, or CMS as they have both been very very helpful...I wished I could afford 3 engines from all three shops. I would reccomend any of the 3 any day of the week.

I would like to thanks to Scooter and Erik @ HPE
Also would like to thank Dave @ CMS
And last but not least...Bryan @ LME

Like I said...I wished I could buy one from all 3 but I think @ this point in time this is the best decision for me. None of the shops have talked bad about one another and none have said "our product is better" or anything like that...in fact they have all said "that the other 2 shops (depending on which one I was talking to at the time) do really good work too"...that says alot to me personally.

Thanks again...and thanks to everyone that participated. And I would also like to thank black_knight, he was one of the reasons I decided to wait...so thanks to all.

Byron Taylor

 

you made the right decision yound lad

 

Thanks...we're trying to get something worked out on this 244/248 cam too!!! they say it should make over 500 hp!! That will be SWEEEEET!!!

(The dream is coming alive!!!)

Now all I need is a TNT Kit...lol...probably don't want to do a dry kit huh?

 

I have a 244/248 .612/.615 111LSA+2 FS if you need one. No 2 week wait for a custom grind. Has 5 minutes run time on it so it's practically new. PM me if you are interested.

 

pm sent Beast96Z

 

Dry VS wet has been hashed many times. It is just a matter of preference. I use dry up to 200 and I'm in the 10's with a tiny 224 cam.

 

Impressive...I figured that with the "Dry" you would run into lean/rich issues in different cylinders. I was also told that dry was ok until 200 then after that wet would probably be better, but I don't plan on running anything more than 200, I don't think.

 

No, actuly that is a wet issue. Nitrous is brought in before the MAF, which reads drop in temp and assumes more air, so it instructs more fuel via injectors (distributed equaly).
Besides DP, I'm not a big fan of wet because the intake was not meant to flow fuel.
People always say wet hits harder which is BS, because if you are properly tuned for dry, there is little difference.
Also people do not purge on dry shot ( I do in motor on burnout) so my system has no lag.
Also my 5177 is now a dual stage and I only have $600 total investment. Not bad VS wet that requires over $ 1000 with all safety features.