the next step up really after just a factory spring is like a basic Comp 918 or something of that nature.. and THAT spring is still not recommended for the t-rex or any other highlift cam.


you need at LEAST a dual to have some kind of strength to keep the valves from floating.

I still hope this thread is a joke, because this man wont have or now DOES NOT have a running motor anymore

 

02 ls6 springs have like 90# @ 1.800 and 296 open. dont remember rate or coil bind off hand. 01 springs are rated even less...

 

who sold you the cam/springs?

 

On the way to blowing **** up, sweeeet!

 

He'll probably never post again and this thread will die a fiery death from all the flaming.

 

I dont care what anyone says. Blowing **** up is cool.

 

as long as it not yours .

dameter - where not trying to be hard on you, for most of us this is common knowledge. for you it may not be. however, its imperative that you know what your doing when buying and installing internal components. if you are unsure then thats what this forum is for; asking questions. you might get the "search muthafucka" routine but somebody will answer your question. getting ragged on for not searching is a better alternative to going at it blinding and ******* **** up.

also, for future reference Texas speed sales 3.898 pistons or you can hone the block and run a 3.905 piston. diamond, lunati, JE, and Mahle all make them. get the pistons with at least 2cc valve reliefs so you dont have to worry about ptv issues for any reason. for head work i'd opt for AFR's myself, if the budget doesnt allow it TEA 1.5's or PRC 2.5's are a great head for the money.

 

I also like the part about how well it pulls with it "untuned". But still not as good as the LS6 springs part.

Rick

 

troll...5 posts... unbelieveable stupidity...posted once on this thread

 

Valve float is not his main concern if its true. I dont believe he has installed the cam at all to be honest because if the springs are good for .550 lift then they will bind at just turning the motor over. That is gonna break the spring, pushrod, or rocker arm. Only running the rpms up to the point that the spring can not put enough pressure on the valve to keep it against the rocker arm from trying to jump off the rocker arm under momentum will cause valve float. Again, he probably bought the cam and has not installed it yet and was just wanting to chime in and get a shout out.

 

Rick, belive it or not, i did pull very well untuned, i put well over 410 untuned to the wheels and low 430 tuned with stock intake and all, i just dont idle worth a crap or stay running untuned
i did like the part where he said he'd get like high 420's conservitively tho, hope hes got a strong motor

 

I was more concerned about the tuning rather than the numbers. I dont realy buy the whole number game, its more the saftey of the car that I worry about.

Rick

 

understood, thats why i run safe a/f ratio and timing, i could probably pick up a lil more pushing the limits a tad

 

Where are you taking the A/F from?

Rick

 

one of them dyno a/f machines,tube inside the header extension about 16" behind the sensor, works very well

 

Right. So how exactly did he manage to order this from Thunder without seeing the 49 warnings about how he MUST use dual springs?

If it happened like you said, I would Definately not consider someone who just took one of the biggest cams on the market and tossed it in his motor without doing any research "smart."

 

that's the funniest thing i've seen on this site.

 

omfg...

 

**** that, I even have fun blowing my own **** up!

 

Actually Comp 918 springs would probably work with a T-REX just fine. They are under rated at .600; probably good for more like .625. I've been running Comp 918's with my .600 lift cam for a while now, bouncing off the 7000 rpm rev limit a few times and forcing it way beyond that once with a missed shift. Hopefully he meant beehive LS6 style Comp 918 springs, LOL.

dameter21, hello?