ARP rod bolts...just swap them w/the factory ones???
07-08-2005, 08:36 AM
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I installed the ARP Pro series in my 99 C5 about a year ago. I measured, as well as I could with some plasti-gauge on the first one and the last one I did. Since I couldn't lay the guage in I blew it through with some canned air. I think I used the .002" and pushed the crank up with my hand until it was up against the top bearing and the clearance was at the bottom. I remember the .002" went in and the .003" would not. This did not change after the ARP's were installed. This is not the way to measure bearing clearances as it wouldn't tell me about out of roundness. I was trying to find an indication of crush. The indication was that the crush was within .001" of stock. I did mine with the thread lube, torqued them in and out 3 times, and to 40 ft/lbs. as per ARP's recommendation. I didn't use threadlock. I then ran the engine like a break-in. The first 200 miles nothing over 2.5krpm's then up 500 miles, nothing over 3.5k rpm's. Then nothing to redline for the next couple of hundred miles. I made numerous trips to 6800 rpm's with one shift at the top end where my clutch stuck to the floor shifting from 3rd-4th and the rpm flare taking the engine well over 7k with no issues. I now have around 3k miles on them.
What worries me more now is valve float. I'm using Harland Sharp's and will be going back to stock after I get Nasty to mod them for me.
What worries me more now is valve float. I'm using Harland Sharp's and will be going back to stock after I get Nasty to mod them for me.
