Going to swap out heads, questions
01-27-2006, 08:23 PM
#22
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I just did this method, sucked the coolant right out of the block/heads with my big *** RIGID shop vac. It worked perfect... ZERO coolant when I pulled the heads.
Blew out the bolt holes with my air compressor w/ a straw attached. (got a handy little nozzel at Harbor Freight)
I sprayed a small squirt of carb cleaner in 'em, ran a trimmed bottle brush down them (tried the grooved bolt but got NOTHING).
Then I used a straw with a piece of papar rolled up inside of it (like a big Q-tip) to soak up any carb cleaner and grime, until it came out dry.
Blew 'em out one last time (from the bottom) and installed my ARP studs.
The bolt holes were never even really dirty!!
Blew out the bolt holes with my air compressor w/ a straw attached. (got a handy little nozzel at Harbor Freight)
I sprayed a small squirt of carb cleaner in 'em, ran a trimmed bottle brush down them (tried the grooved bolt but got NOTHING).
Then I used a straw with a piece of papar rolled up inside of it (like a big Q-tip) to soak up any carb cleaner and grime, until it came out dry.
Blew 'em out one last time (from the bottom) and installed my ARP studs.
The bolt holes were never even really dirty!!
01-27-2006, 10:02 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by ls1mn6_3
Can I ask why you just don't drain the coolant out of the block using the drain plugs?
01-30-2006, 09:42 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Firehawk853
You take one of the old head bolts and grind flat two sides of the bolt. Take the bolt and screw it back into each of the bolt holes in the block. Do this about three times for each hole. As you do this you'll see that the bolt will pick up all the gunk that was in the threads. Its the same idea as a thread tap, just you won't be cutting material away, you'll be cleaning it out.
Chuck is right on, if you don't do this a lot and you can't justify the $40 tap then a bolt cut correctly will work just fine