How the F did my engine blow?
Well finally found the problem.
Spun bearing on the number 7 cylinder. My father and I came to the conclusion that it wasn't oil starvation, but probably the fact the engine couldn't handle the high revs.
Anyways, any suggestions on a good forged kit?
Spun bearing on the number 7 cylinder. My father and I came to the conclusion that it wasn't oil starvation, but probably the fact the engine couldn't handle the high revs.
Anyways, any suggestions on a good forged kit?
I was thinking(well my father, the master machanic), of raising the compression just a little as well. Maybe even bigger pistons. We aren't quite sure what exactly we are going to do yet. As soon as I know, I'll ask you all what you think is best.
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Cant really go with bigger pistons on the stock bore, not much anyways.
Cannibal's advice is good, you could also run a set of Scat H beams in there too.
I'd replace the cam bearings while you are in there aswell.
Have the crank polished, or pick up a nice used one for cheap..
Cannibal's advice is good, you could also run a set of Scat H beams in there too.
I'd replace the cam bearings while you are in there aswell.
Have the crank polished, or pick up a nice used one for cheap..
may seem like a dumb question but, will a Lunati LS1 Rotating Assemblie package cause me to gain any HP, or will it just make everything stronger? The package seems to have everything I am looking for, without going overboard.
edit: these rotating assemblies can raise my cubic inches? Do I need a new engine block to go with these kits?
edit: these rotating assemblies can raise my cubic inches? Do I need a new engine block to go with these kits?
so lets say I go with the 383 Lunati rotating assemblie, I will see a good gain?
Another question is that if I wanna go with a higer cubic inch rotating assemblie, do I need to get a new engine block, or is the stock one fine?
sorry for such noob questions, when it comes to serious engine stuff, I am a bit lost.
Another question is that if I wanna go with a higer cubic inch rotating assemblie, do I need to get a new engine block, or is the stock one fine?
sorry for such noob questions, when it comes to serious engine stuff, I am a bit lost.
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for the 383 you wont, but you'll have see if you need to bore the cylinders over just a little, and get pistons specific to that bore.
You could always sell your stock block and go 400+ on a new Iron or ls2 block.
You wont gain any power for the mostpart with a forged crank/rods, but it will hold alot more power.
With the 383 you'll want to ad a set of heads, or (even with a cam large enough for the cubic inches) you'll run out of air flow around 6400rpm. I'd bet it would peak aronud 6-6200...
You could always sell your stock block and go 400+ on a new Iron or ls2 block.
You wont gain any power for the mostpart with a forged crank/rods, but it will hold alot more power.
With the 383 you'll want to ad a set of heads, or (even with a cam large enough for the cubic inches) you'll run out of air flow around 6400rpm. I'd bet it would peak aronud 6-6200...
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Verdad Gallardo hmmmm ok. I was looking at speed inc's engine assemblie packages. Might go with the 382 Sportsman LS1 package, or maybe even a 427. Keep the info and suggestions coming please! Thanks a head of time 
Originally Posted by bad0211secws6
doesnt slp have a good price on theyre ls2 shortblocks? i dont think its forged though?
Ok, I need to know something. What kind of price am I looking at if I want to keep everything STOCK SIZE, just everything be forged. I'm talking pistons, connecting rods, bearings, bolts, whatever else I'm leaving out. I'm trying to compare prices, getting a nice TSP LS2 402ci block for around $4k, or just keeping everything stock size but stronger.
EDIT: Heres a shopping list I came up with from Thunder Racing, let me know if this is all I would need, am I missing anything?
Comp Cams OE Replacement Hydraulic Roller Lifters, SB Chevy & LS1 $219.99
Thunder Racing Heat Treated Chrome-Moly Pushrods, 7.400" (Stock length LS1) $109.99
Federal Mogul LS1 Main Bearing Set, Competition Series Super Duty Alloy, 3/4 Groove (STD) $69.99
Diamond Pistons LS1 Forged Flat Top Piston set w/ -2cc Valve Reliefs, 4.060" BORE / 3.622" Stroke / 6.098" Rods / 1.340" Comp Height / .945 x 2.500 Wrist Pins Included $469.99
Thunder Racing Billet LS1 Main Caps $419.99
ARP LS1/LS2 Main Stud Kit $167.99
Eagle LS1 forged crankshaft with 3.622" Stroke $795.00
ARP High-Performance LS1 "Cracked Rod" Connecting Rod Bolts $73.49
Lunati Pro-Mod Connecting Rods, LS1 Engine, 6.125" ROD LENGTH, .927 WRIST PIN, 2.100 CRANK PIN, .940 JRNL WIDTH $749.99
Order Total: $3076.42
EDIT: Heres a shopping list I came up with from Thunder Racing, let me know if this is all I would need, am I missing anything?
Comp Cams OE Replacement Hydraulic Roller Lifters, SB Chevy & LS1 $219.99
Thunder Racing Heat Treated Chrome-Moly Pushrods, 7.400" (Stock length LS1) $109.99
Federal Mogul LS1 Main Bearing Set, Competition Series Super Duty Alloy, 3/4 Groove (STD) $69.99
Diamond Pistons LS1 Forged Flat Top Piston set w/ -2cc Valve Reliefs, 4.060" BORE / 3.622" Stroke / 6.098" Rods / 1.340" Comp Height / .945 x 2.500 Wrist Pins Included $469.99
Thunder Racing Billet LS1 Main Caps $419.99
ARP LS1/LS2 Main Stud Kit $167.99
Eagle LS1 forged crankshaft with 3.622" Stroke $795.00
ARP High-Performance LS1 "Cracked Rod" Connecting Rod Bolts $73.49
Lunati Pro-Mod Connecting Rods, LS1 Engine, 6.125" ROD LENGTH, .927 WRIST PIN, 2.100 CRANK PIN, .940 JRNL WIDTH $749.99
Order Total: $3076.42
Last edited by freakynipples69; Sep 14, 2005 at 10:41 AM.
those pistons are for 4.060 bore. Stock is like 3.898. If youre reusing a block and rerings it, look at something like 3.905.
What are you doing for a block? Dont forget the machine shop costs.
Do you really need billet main caps? Probably not.
Dont forget rod bearings and cam bearings too.
If youre going to keep the stock 3.622 stroke, just keep a stock crank. Nobody breaks the stock crank and why spend money if youre not going to see any advantage.
What are you doing for a block? Dont forget the machine shop costs.
Do you really need billet main caps? Probably not.
Dont forget rod bearings and cam bearings too.
If youre going to keep the stock 3.622 stroke, just keep a stock crank. Nobody breaks the stock crank and why spend money if youre not going to see any advantage.
IMO, you should buy an assembled engine, but it's your money. those pistons wont work with any aluminum block, you'll need to use a iron to get 4.06 and even then it needs to be sonic tested. 4.03 is what most people go for an iron 408. On an aluminum block you can use the ls2 402, which you mentioned, and i believe it uses a 4.002 bore, not 100% on that though. The 402 is going to cost about $1000 more than a 347, because you're paying for a forged crank, and a little more for the block.
Originally Posted by freakynipples69
I am going to rip the engine apart soon. I'm looking for a good guide/instructions/steps on how to remove the oil pan. Anyone know of one?
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you wont need the arp rod bolts, as most rods come with bolts, and those are for stock rods, i believe.
pistons are too big, you need rings too.
It would probably be cheaper to get a shortblock from a sponsor, where all the parts, machine work, assembly, etc is done.
pistons are too big, you need rings too.
It would probably be cheaper to get a shortblock from a sponsor, where all the parts, machine work, assembly, etc is done.
my father is a master mechanic, so we would be installing everything at my house, free of charge. the only thing we need to pay for are parts. as far as the pistons and rings, i really didnt know what i was picking, so embaressement on my part.
I'm on #6 myself. Been screwed by a dealer, been screwed by a machine shop, and just plain wore the last one out racing it. I race a bunch, so I plan to have 2 408 shortblocks so I can freshen one up during the off season and have a backup at all times.
I recommend getting an assembled shortblock - in the long run, it is cheaper and more reliable than working with local machine shops that don't know LS1's. And no offense, but unless your father has a machine shop and is experienced with LS1's, you should at least leave the machine work and rotating assembly installation to a reputable builder that specializes in LS1's.
Just my opinion, but it comes from lots of money spent and bad experiences.
I recommend getting an assembled shortblock - in the long run, it is cheaper and more reliable than working with local machine shops that don't know LS1's. And no offense, but unless your father has a machine shop and is experienced with LS1's, you should at least leave the machine work and rotating assembly installation to a reputable builder that specializes in LS1's.
Just my opinion, but it comes from lots of money spent and bad experiences.
You need to talk with LPE or FFHP. They both have some damn good prices on short blocks. You'ld be hard pressed to beat their quality, experience and price. Taking nothing away from your father's master mechanic experience, but you can't really dispute that LPE can build one hell of a LS1 engine...and it comes with a warranty.
My recommendation would be to buy the short block. Put your heads on it and install it yourself.
Good luck.
My recommendation would be to buy the short block. Put your heads on it and install it yourself.
Good luck.
Freaky -
Did you guys ever figure out what was the cause of your engine going in the first place? I know you said that it wasnt oil starvation, but how can you be so sure. A spun bearing is invariably an oil starvation problem, no? Usually an engine that just cant handle the revs breaks a rod bolt and throws a rod out the side of the block. Just curious if it was ever determined which it was...
Did you guys ever figure out what was the cause of your engine going in the first place? I know you said that it wasnt oil starvation, but how can you be so sure. A spun bearing is invariably an oil starvation problem, no? Usually an engine that just cant handle the revs breaks a rod bolt and throws a rod out the side of the block. Just curious if it was ever determined which it was...