Budget Shortblock rebuild
Budget Shortblock rebuild So found out the rings are toast, burning oil. Top end of the motor looks fine. Basically wanted the cheapest and fastest way to replace the rings. No no2 or F.I. will be going on the motor. Used mostly for track days, lapping, so I was curious what the cheapest way would be. I also dont want to assemble the shortblock myself, I'm find with pulling the heads and stuff. Can I just take the block to a local machine shop and get it honed for stock pistons and use some super nice rings?
Ive seen forged motors go for as cheap as 2500. Thats not a bad price, and even though you said it would never see a power adder, I would also go forged for the higher RPM capability.
IMO if your going to go as far as this, save up a little more money and do it right. get it honed or bored if needed, replace the bearings and pistons (if needed), get everything checked/magnafluxed/cleaned and if your planning on any power in the future take that into account and get the stuff done now. Your short block is not the place to skimp.
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Originally Posted by magius231
IMO if your going to go as far as this, save up a little more money and do it right. get it honed or bored if needed, replace the bearings and pistons (if needed), get everything checked/magnafluxed/cleaned and if your planning on any power in the future take that into account and get the stuff done now. Your short block is not the place to skimp.
I will get a hone, and hopefully that's all it will need along with some rings. What about ARP rod or bottom end bolts that are stronger for rpms?
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
The "list" is just going to get you in trouble. You could do the following for "reliability"...
Two piece timing cover
Billet main caps
Katech rods bolts
QTP oil pump
Engine and tranny cooling...cuz the tranny is coming out too right??
New lifters, or step up to Jesel/Morel
Update the PCV
Crankcase vacuum pump
....you don't even want to start doing stuff to the heads...you know, to improve "reliability".
Two piece timing cover
Billet main caps
Katech rods bolts
QTP oil pump
Engine and tranny cooling...cuz the tranny is coming out too right??
New lifters, or step up to Jesel/Morel
Update the PCV
Crankcase vacuum pump
....you don't even want to start doing stuff to the heads...you know, to improve "reliability".
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,029
Likes: 0
From: Chi-Town
i had a pretty budget rebuild. i had a bad ring and had to take mine out. changed all the bearings, and rod bolts. i left the stock rods cause i didnt have the extra cash to put down on a budget motor that wasnt gonna see fi or anything. i got new forged/reliefed pistons cause the problem was actually one of my pistons. my engine is so quiet compared to the stock pistons now its amazing. in the end the engine guy charged me about 1500 i think to hone the block, clean everything up, put it all back together. that was parts and labor. i did go with a different head/cam as long as i had the engine out. other than the engine stuff i didnt change anything else. maybe i like living on the edge 
i bought a built trans at the same time so i didnt have the extra cash to put into a motor. otherwise i would have gone with a built 402 by one of the sponsors
i bought a built trans at the same time so i didnt have the extra cash to put into a motor. otherwise i would have gone with a built 402 by one of the sponsors 
yeah the while I'm at it list ends up being a forged 427 high compression solid roller TH400 backed race motor by the time you get done with it...how many people have fallen into that trap i wonder 
Originally Posted by nytoy
What kind of pistons are decent? Should I bother replacing the lifters?