OK, here we go...
08-10-2005, 03:26 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by DBeck
dang. Well what longtubes do you suggest and where can i find some good ones? Are they expensive?
Yes, almost as expensive as that cam package, and in some cases more expensive. Don't want to sound like a dick, but if you wanna keep JRP off your back, do some more research 
Do a search for "bolt-ons". There are probably several extensive lists on here. It is a very good idea to do the bolt-ons BEFORE your cam goes in. It will maximize the potential of the cam and you will be making more power and be much happier in the long run.
Since I'm a nice guy, here goes in the order I would do them:
1. If you're an A4 get a torque converter!! By the far the best mod you can do right now short of a heads/cam package or power adder. For that cam look for a 3600-4000 stall.
2. Airbox Lid. If your car came equipped with the 20 hp performance package you already have a damn good one from SLP, so you can skip to number 3.
3. Longtube headers with a 3" y-pipe. That slp dual/dual flows amazingly well, so there is no need to change the cat-back unless you want to be louder.
4. Ported TB. Leave the stock MAF alone though. No need to go bigger right now, not to mention it will be a giant pain in the *** to tune with an 85mm TB.
5. You'll find the LS6 intake listed in some "bolt-on" discussion threads, don't worry about that, you already have it. 01-02 cars came with LS6 intakes from the factory.
That should cover it for now. Oh, if you're a six speed car, you'll want a shorter gear (numerically higher) to keep the car feeling tight with that cam and put you in your power range quicker. 4.10s would be good.
Some suspension mods along the way will do a great deal to keep the car driveable in terms of traction. With all that extra power, the stock **** won't do much for you. Consider LCAs, PHR, SFCs, STB, and a nice solid torque arm for starters. If you plan on lowering the rear, you'll want LCA relo brackets and an adjustable PHR to recenter the rear end.
I know this is a lot of info to swallow, but pull some all nighters doing some research and you'll have a decent understanding of how you should mod your car.
Good luck
08-10-2005, 03:29 PM
#23
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lol, yes you are a nice guy. thanks alot. But dang, I never knew I needed all this before the cam. Looks like I wont be putting the cam in this year. 
08-10-2005, 03:33 PM
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I almost forgot about the CheaTR cam from thunder racing. Alot of guys are having great success with this cam as it is designed for optimum performance with STOCK MANIFOLDS. You also won't need a dual spring kit, just a single spring, so that package will be cheaper also.
Just make sure you have a well thought out plan for your car so you don't waste a ton of money in the long run.
Just make sure you have a well thought out plan for your car so you don't waste a ton of money in the long run.
08-10-2005, 03:34 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
Yes, almost as expensive as that cam package, and in some cases more expensive. Don't want to sound like a dick, but if you wanna keep JRP off your back, do some more research Do a search for "bolt-ons". There are probably several extensive lists on here. It is a very good idea to do the bolt-ons BEFORE your cam goes in. It will maximize the potential of the cam and you will be making more power and be much happier in the long run.
Since I'm a nice guy, here goes in the order I would do them:
1. If you're an A4 get a torque converter!! By the far the best mod you can do right now short of a heads/cam package or power adder. For that cam look for a 3600-4000 stall.
2. Airbox Lid. If your car came equipped with the 20 hp performance package you already have a damn good one from SLP, so you can skip to number 3.
3. Longtube headers with a 3" y-pipe. That slp dual/dual flows amazingly well, so there is no need to change the cat-back unless you want to be louder.
4. Ported TB. Leave the stock MAF alone though. No need to go bigger right now, not to mention it will be a giant pain in the *** to tune with an 85mm TB.
5. You'll find the LS6 intake listed in some "bolt-on" discussion threads, don't worry about that, you already have it. 01-02 cars came with LS6 intakes from the factory.
That should cover it for now. Oh, if you're a six speed car, you'll want a shorter gear (numerically higher) to keep the car feeling tight with that cam and put you in your power range quicker. 4.10s would be good.
Some suspension mods along the way will do a great deal to keep the car driveable in terms of traction. With all that extra power, the stock **** won't do much for you. Consider LCAs, PHR, SFCs, STB, and a nice solid torque arm for starters. If you plan on lowering the rear, you'll want LCA relo brackets and an adjustable PHR to recenter the rear end.
I know this is a lot of info to swallow, but pull some all nighters doing some research and you'll have a decent understanding of how you should mod your car.
Good luck
08-10-2005, 03:36 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
I almost forgot about the CheaTR cam from thunder racing. Alot of guys are having great success with this cam as it is designed for optimum performance with STOCK MANIFOLDS. You also won't need a dual spring kit, just a single spring, so that package will be cheaper also.
Just make sure you have a well thought out plan for your car so you don't waste a ton of money in the long run.
Just make sure you have a well thought out plan for your car so you don't waste a ton of money in the long run.
08-10-2005, 03:41 PM
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This is like an AOL chat room now! From what I hear, the F13 is more tame sounding than say for example the Torquer II from TSP. I went with the Torquer II because it was cheaper ($200 cheaper for the package) and is a VERY similar grind. In fact I wanted the F13 because it idles smoother, but I rather would have saved $200.
All in all, if you want a nice rough idle, and like the specs of the F13, then you might want to also consider the Torquer II. It's lopier.
All in all, if you want a nice rough idle, and like the specs of the F13, then you might want to also consider the Torquer II. It's lopier.
08-10-2005, 04:18 PM
#29
Originally Posted by DBeck
lol, yes you are a nice guy. thanks alot. But dang, I never knew I needed all this before the cam. Looks like I wont be putting the cam in this year.
Do you have an auto or a manual? If you're have an auto, like was mentioned before, definitely invest in a torque converter as one of your very first mods. With an auto, I'd add that first along with an air lid and some longtubes.
If you're a manual... stuff gets a little more tricky. With a lot of added power, you start putting the stock 10 bolt rear end at risk. Just bolt-ons and 4.10 gears, along with Nitto drag radials and I blew up the diff in my stock rear end. A 12 bolt or 9" rear end is a good investment if you're planning on putting out more power than what bolt-ons provide for a manual, but they're very spendy.
Also, even after getting a rear end squared away, then the clutch becomes an issue if you want to drag race at all and have good traction...
So basically what we're saying, running a bigger aftermarket cam isn't as simple or cheap as buying a cam kit and shoving it in the block.
08-10-2005, 04:23 PM
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LCA = Lower Control Arm
The stock pieces are cheap stamped steel and have rubber bushings, they let the rear end bounce around too much under hard acceleration leading to wheel hop which is bad for your rear end, and no traction. A good set of LCA's will help reduce wheel hop and help you plant the power. LCA's are available from many manufacturers, BMR, Spohn, LG, etc..... just check the sponsor and sniff around in the suspension section.
STB = Strut Tower Brace
That's that bar that connects the two strut towers to stiffen the front end of the car up a bit. Also known as "stress bar"
PHR = Panhard Rod
Biggest advantage of having one of the adjustable variety is that it helps you center your rear end which is important especially if you lower your car. Lowering the car will change your suspension geometry, and once you slap on bigger wheels and tires, it's nice to have the PHR to adjust the rear so that it sits perfectly and thus prevents tire rubbing.
SFC = Subrframe Connector
Tightens up the car big time. Helps in gaining traction. Our cars are made off the front and rear subframes, connecting these together helps greatly with strengthening the car. Higher horsepower/torque cars without SFC's have been known to "crinkle" the rear fender (which is the only metal piece on the body) due to the additional stress and flex more hp and tq put on the chassis. They make several different kinds of SFC's....the weld in, the bolt on, the regular style which basically is just a bar connecting the front and rear subframes, and finally the Diamond style which also ties the center of the car into the SFC by attaching to the crossmember. Weld ins are usually stronger but more work to install (gotta watch out for burning carpets). The Diamond style might potentially cause clearance problems with other components, but I have the SLP bolt in Diamond Style connectors and have had no issues with them at all.
TA = Torque Arm
The factory piece is really weak and has been known to break causing your rear end to flip flopl all over the place...not a good thing. Besides being weak, the stock TA also mounts to the tailshaft of the transmission putting unneeded stress on it. Because of this there are two types of TA's, the stock type, and the crossmember mounted TA. The crossmemeber mounted one moves the mounting point from the transmission to the crossmember behind it. I have the Spohn Adjustable crossmember mounted TA and am very happy with it. It has its drawbacks in that it uses a "shackle mount" system which can cause "clunks" when driving...these are normal and you'll get used to it. Since it is adjustable, you can set your pinion angle for maximum traction. For me, the Spohn TA has eliminated wheel hop completely and really helped with traction. One more drawback of the crossmember moutned TA is that in order to clear your headers, if you get them, you need to get the version that has a crossmember that hangs lower than the one designed for stock exhaust manifolds. This thing hangs pretty low and you have to watch out for speed bumps and some drive on lifts...it's easy to get hung up. Here are some pictures:
In this pic you can see the red LCA in the foreground, and that black thing it mounts to is part of the SFC
Here you can see the crossmember part of the torque arm, the SFC ties into it and it is all fastened to the floor with longer bolts.
Just another view of everything.
An advantage of the Spohn TA is that it will also work with a Moser 12 bolt rear end. As you might know, GM 10 bolts are pretty weak, and if you do any kind of racing with slicks or do a lot of hard launches, you will eventually destroy the rear end and might as well upgrade to a 12 bolt.
It's important to plan what you're doing so you won't have to buy components twice. It would suck if you buy a TA for example that works well with the stock 10 bolt, but then when you upgrade to a 12 bolt it won't work and you have to buy another TA, so do your homework, don't rush anything.
I was just like you, I wanted the car to sound mean and though I can just spend 400 bucks and throw that cam in there...far from it! Since the beginning of the year I have bought:
BMR LCA's
Stainless Works Headers with 2.5" Y pipe....expensive...around 1300
New O2 sensors since the stockers couldn't handle the headers, bought the Bosch 13111 which are the rear sensors of a Corvette
New plugs and wires (two different ones, the MSD I had at first didn't like my headers, they touched and got burned...so I got the Taylors now
LS6 intake (mine is a 98...so I had to upgrade that as well)
Torque Arm
SFC's (bougth those a few years ago though)
Cam
Springs
Pushrods
Oil Pump
New Belts
ASP Pulley
All sorts of Gaskets
Yadda yadda yadda....the list is long...but I was guided by the helpful folks of LS1.com (while it still existed) and LS1tech.com.
I did a lot of searching trying to determine the right components. It can be frustrating at times...but once you got her running right, it's good fun.
Before the cam install I also had the car dyno tuned, and the Throttlebody (TB) ported, so that cost a good bundle too....almost a 1000 dollars. Consecutive Dyno tunes at the same tuner are cheaper, it's the inital tune that costs the most.
I could write a book about my modding adventures, as can just about anyone on this board, especially the ones more heavily modded than me.
Good luck!
Manny
The stock pieces are cheap stamped steel and have rubber bushings, they let the rear end bounce around too much under hard acceleration leading to wheel hop which is bad for your rear end, and no traction. A good set of LCA's will help reduce wheel hop and help you plant the power. LCA's are available from many manufacturers, BMR, Spohn, LG, etc..... just check the sponsor and sniff around in the suspension section.
STB = Strut Tower Brace
That's that bar that connects the two strut towers to stiffen the front end of the car up a bit. Also known as "stress bar"
PHR = Panhard Rod
Biggest advantage of having one of the adjustable variety is that it helps you center your rear end which is important especially if you lower your car. Lowering the car will change your suspension geometry, and once you slap on bigger wheels and tires, it's nice to have the PHR to adjust the rear so that it sits perfectly and thus prevents tire rubbing.
SFC = Subrframe Connector
Tightens up the car big time. Helps in gaining traction. Our cars are made off the front and rear subframes, connecting these together helps greatly with strengthening the car. Higher horsepower/torque cars without SFC's have been known to "crinkle" the rear fender (which is the only metal piece on the body) due to the additional stress and flex more hp and tq put on the chassis. They make several different kinds of SFC's....the weld in, the bolt on, the regular style which basically is just a bar connecting the front and rear subframes, and finally the Diamond style which also ties the center of the car into the SFC by attaching to the crossmember. Weld ins are usually stronger but more work to install (gotta watch out for burning carpets). The Diamond style might potentially cause clearance problems with other components, but I have the SLP bolt in Diamond Style connectors and have had no issues with them at all.
TA = Torque Arm
The factory piece is really weak and has been known to break causing your rear end to flip flopl all over the place...not a good thing. Besides being weak, the stock TA also mounts to the tailshaft of the transmission putting unneeded stress on it. Because of this there are two types of TA's, the stock type, and the crossmember mounted TA. The crossmemeber mounted one moves the mounting point from the transmission to the crossmember behind it. I have the Spohn Adjustable crossmember mounted TA and am very happy with it. It has its drawbacks in that it uses a "shackle mount" system which can cause "clunks" when driving...these are normal and you'll get used to it. Since it is adjustable, you can set your pinion angle for maximum traction. For me, the Spohn TA has eliminated wheel hop completely and really helped with traction. One more drawback of the crossmember moutned TA is that in order to clear your headers, if you get them, you need to get the version that has a crossmember that hangs lower than the one designed for stock exhaust manifolds. This thing hangs pretty low and you have to watch out for speed bumps and some drive on lifts...it's easy to get hung up. Here are some pictures:
In this pic you can see the red LCA in the foreground, and that black thing it mounts to is part of the SFC
Here you can see the crossmember part of the torque arm, the SFC ties into it and it is all fastened to the floor with longer bolts.
Just another view of everything.
An advantage of the Spohn TA is that it will also work with a Moser 12 bolt rear end. As you might know, GM 10 bolts are pretty weak, and if you do any kind of racing with slicks or do a lot of hard launches, you will eventually destroy the rear end and might as well upgrade to a 12 bolt.
It's important to plan what you're doing so you won't have to buy components twice. It would suck if you buy a TA for example that works well with the stock 10 bolt, but then when you upgrade to a 12 bolt it won't work and you have to buy another TA, so do your homework, don't rush anything.
I was just like you, I wanted the car to sound mean and though I can just spend 400 bucks and throw that cam in there...far from it! Since the beginning of the year I have bought:
BMR LCA's
Stainless Works Headers with 2.5" Y pipe....expensive...around 1300
New O2 sensors since the stockers couldn't handle the headers, bought the Bosch 13111 which are the rear sensors of a Corvette
New plugs and wires (two different ones, the MSD I had at first didn't like my headers, they touched and got burned...so I got the Taylors now
LS6 intake (mine is a 98...so I had to upgrade that as well)
Torque Arm
SFC's (bougth those a few years ago though)
Cam
Springs
Pushrods
Oil Pump
New Belts
ASP Pulley
All sorts of Gaskets
Yadda yadda yadda....the list is long...but I was guided by the helpful folks of LS1.com (while it still existed) and LS1tech.com.
I did a lot of searching trying to determine the right components. It can be frustrating at times...but once you got her running right, it's good fun.
Before the cam install I also had the car dyno tuned, and the Throttlebody (TB) ported, so that cost a good bundle too....almost a 1000 dollars. Consecutive Dyno tunes at the same tuner are cheaper, it's the inital tune that costs the most.
I could write a book about my modding adventures, as can just about anyone on this board, especially the ones more heavily modded than me.
Good luck!
Manny
08-10-2005, 04:41 PM
#31
The CheaTR cam can have a lopey idle if you set the idle in the 700 rpm range. At 800 rpm (stock for M6) it has a small beat to it. At 850, there is no lope at all. If you want pure stealth, 850 rpm idle. Want lope? 700 rpm idle, simple as that.
__________________
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
08-10-2005, 10:26 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
The CheaTR cam can have a lopey idle if you set the idle in the 700 rpm range. At 800 rpm (stock for M6) it has a small beat to it. At 850, there is no lope at all. If you want pure stealth, 850 rpm idle. Want lope? 700 rpm idle, simple as that.
My car has always idled at 900 rpm.....I wonder why that is. It still idles at 900 with the TR224.
My tuner can adjust the idle rpm I assume? What's a safe RPM to set it to? I want it lopey
08-10-2005, 11:03 PM
#33
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
My car has always idled at 900 rpm.....I wonder why that is. It still idles at 900 with the TR224.
My tuner can adjust the idle rpm I assume? What's a safe RPM to set it to? I want it lopey
My tuner can adjust the idle rpm I assume? What's a safe RPM to set it to? I want it lopey
__________________
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
08-10-2005, 11:08 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Tranzor_Z28
Do you have an auto or a manual? If you're have an auto, like was mentioned before, definitely invest in a torque converter as one of your very first mods. With an auto, I'd add that first along with an air lid and some longtubes.
If you're a manual... stuff gets a little more tricky. With a lot of added power, you start putting the stock 10 bolt rear end at risk. Just bolt-ons and 4.10 gears, along with Nitto drag radials and I blew up the diff in my stock rear end. A 12 bolt or 9" rear end is a good investment if you're planning on putting out more power than what bolt-ons provide for a manual, but they're very spendy.
Also, even after getting a rear end squared away, then the clutch becomes an issue if you want to drag race at all and have good traction...
So basically what we're saying, running a bigger aftermarket cam isn't as simple or cheap as buying a cam kit and shoving it in the block.
If you're a manual... stuff gets a little more tricky. With a lot of added power, you start putting the stock 10 bolt rear end at risk. Just bolt-ons and 4.10 gears, along with Nitto drag radials and I blew up the diff in my stock rear end. A 12 bolt or 9" rear end is a good investment if you're planning on putting out more power than what bolt-ons provide for a manual, but they're very spendy.
Also, even after getting a rear end squared away, then the clutch becomes an issue if you want to drag race at all and have good traction...
So basically what we're saying, running a bigger aftermarket cam isn't as simple or cheap as buying a cam kit and shoving it in the block.
08-10-2005, 11:21 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
This is like an AOL chat room now! From what I hear, the F13 is more tame sounding than say for example the Torquer II from TSP. I went with the Torquer II because it was cheaper ($200 cheaper for the package) and is a VERY similar grind. In fact I wanted the F13 because it idles smoother, but I rather would have saved $200.
All in all, if you want a nice rough idle, and like the specs of the F13, then you might want to also consider the Torquer II. It's lopier.
All in all, if you want a nice rough idle, and like the specs of the F13, then you might want to also consider the Torquer II. It's lopier.
08-10-2005, 11:50 PM
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texas-speed.com
Just got mine in the mail a couple of days ago. I'll be putting it in as soon as I get my Larry spring tool.
This is what I have waiting to go in:
TSP Torquer II cam
PRC dual spring kit (incl. springs, hardened seats, titanium retainers, valve seals, and pushrods)
Powerbond Underdrive Pulley
Total cost = 927.00 shipped
That's pretty damn cheap if you ask me. Especially considering the FMS F13 cam package with the dual springs comes to 899 alone I think. Add the pulley and shipping, and you're looking at something over $1100.
BTW, TSP doesn't make it, it's a comp cam custom ground for TSP. So you know you're getting a quality cam from a reputable manufacturer.
Just got mine in the mail a couple of days ago. I'll be putting it in as soon as I get my Larry spring tool.
This is what I have waiting to go in:
TSP Torquer II cam
PRC dual spring kit (incl. springs, hardened seats, titanium retainers, valve seals, and pushrods)
Powerbond Underdrive Pulley
Total cost = 927.00 shipped
That's pretty damn cheap if you ask me. Especially considering the FMS F13 cam package with the dual springs comes to 899 alone I think. Add the pulley and shipping, and you're looking at something over $1100.
BTW, TSP doesn't make it, it's a comp cam custom ground for TSP. So you know you're getting a quality cam from a reputable manufacturer.
08-11-2005, 12:18 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by kpowr82
texas-speed.com
Just got mine in the mail a couple of days ago. I'll be putting it in as soon as I get my Larry spring tool.
This is what I have waiting to go in:
TSP Torquer II cam
PRC dual spring kit (incl. springs, hardened seats, titanium retainers, valve seals, and pushrods)
Powerbond Underdrive Pulley
Total cost = 927.00 shipped
That's pretty damn cheap if you ask me. Especially considering the FMS F13 cam package with the dual springs comes to 899 alone I think. Add the pulley and shipping, and you're looking at something over $1100.
BTW, TSP doesn't make it, it's a comp cam custom ground for TSP. So you know you're getting a quality cam from a reputable manufacturer.
Just got mine in the mail a couple of days ago. I'll be putting it in as soon as I get my Larry spring tool.
This is what I have waiting to go in:
TSP Torquer II cam
PRC dual spring kit (incl. springs, hardened seats, titanium retainers, valve seals, and pushrods)
Powerbond Underdrive Pulley
Total cost = 927.00 shipped
That's pretty damn cheap if you ask me. Especially considering the FMS F13 cam package with the dual springs comes to 899 alone I think. Add the pulley and shipping, and you're looking at something over $1100.
BTW, TSP doesn't make it, it's a comp cam custom ground for TSP. So you know you're getting a quality cam from a reputable manufacturer.