Really need help - cylinder won't build compression
So...I replaced the 3 bent pushrods and did a compression test. 7 cylinders are fine but number 7 is not (won't build any compression at all - reads 0 on the guage). Number 7 did NOT have a bent pushrod...
So...here are the tests we did:
- swapped rockers and pushrods to another cylinder. No change.
- took the rockers off - cylinder definitely holds air with the rockers off so I don't think it is a bent valve.
- as soon as I tightened the intake valve rocker the cylinder would no longer hold air or build compression.
- if I loosed the intake rocker a few turns the cylinder builds compression.
So I'm very confused. A lifter can't magically get longer...neither can a cam lobe or a pushrod.
Tried firing it up - misfires galore on that cylinder especially at idle. Seems ok over 2500rpm for some reason.
I really need some help here guys...I don't want to put the car away for the year if this is something I can fix...
Thanks,
Mark
Here is why:
- when I back the rocker off about 1 full turn the cylinder builds compression (not a lot but it is better than 0)
- when I put compressed air in the cylinder with the rockers off it does not come out the intake or exhaust (which would indicate a bent valve to me...)
Thoughts?
Mark
Mark
Just trying to understand what I'm up against before I decide if I want to pull the head.
Thanks,
Mark
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Pull the head, cochise.
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Pull the head, cochise.
I took it for a spin around the block today - runs fine at anything higher than idle. Once it idles for a bit it misses more and more...also has another clacking noise now that it didn't have before.
Lifter?
Mark
perhaps instead of fuggin up the pushrod, you "modded" the rocker?
swap the whole thing, from the "holder strip" on up...
perhaps instead of fuggin up the pushrod, you "modded" the rocker?
Mark
Mark
Mark
i love the LS1s design. very easy to work on, but the one thing i dont like is that.
you have to pull the heads to remove/replace the lifters. and if you're doing that, you might as well replace the valves.... you'll get better flow out of good aftermarket valves anyway.
Mark
Picture 2 valves... one of them with a perfect 90 degree orientation between the valve face and the valve stem, one of them with a slight bend in the uppermost part of the stem.. When no component is installed (the rockers you keep mentioning) to push the valve off the seat by putting pressure against the misaligned section of stem, it seals.. The upper valvetrain components can be putting just enough force against the bent stem to cause it to lift off the seat.
I know you don't wanna pull that head, but in time you've wasted trying to ignore the obvious, you could've already had the repair done, and been burning tires.


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