whats this? pic
#1
whats this? pic
whats this hole that is on the front passanger side valve cover that is threraded and looks like it something should be in it? did i lose something? it looks like its open to the valve cover?
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...8/P1010437.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...8/P1010437.jpg
#3
11 Second Club
You aren't missing anything. If you worry about it being open to the valve cover, get in close and have a look. Or try poking something through it. You'll find out for sure that way.
#4
thanks guys. im going to spry down my engine w simple green then spray over everything with a hose with the "shower" nozzle.. then leaf blow her. sound safe? any precautions?
#6
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Free flowing stream of water from a hose is your best bet if you wanna use the hose. Turn the water on about a 1/4 of the way, just enough to get a steady stream of water. Use only as much water as you need to. Cover the PCM, drive belts and fuse box with foil. Then you can go to town.
I think there is an engine detailing sticky in the appearance forum.
I think there is an engine detailing sticky in the appearance forum.
#7
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by kpowr82
I think there is an engine detailing sticky in the appearance forum.
Check that out, it would be your best resource.
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#9
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by Reckless
I have used power washers on the engines time and time again with no issues. Just don't want to get too close to wiring with really high pressure. But to each his own
#10
ya i have been reading in that forum but i get mixed messages. its like 50% of guys say "no you will screw the KS and electrical prob. etc.." and the other 50% are like "i use a power washer everyweek and go to town on it..no problem" so i am a bit confused.
i was going to use some Solder Seal GUNK foamy engine brite (which is a spray foam) and spray liberally to the valve cover and front of block as well as LS6 intake..then wash with a light stream of water .. then blow dry w leaf blower, then start up and drive for 20 min to dry rest. bad idea?
Gunk or simple green if so?
i was going to use some Solder Seal GUNK foamy engine brite (which is a spray foam) and spray liberally to the valve cover and front of block as well as LS6 intake..then wash with a light stream of water .. then blow dry w leaf blower, then start up and drive for 20 min to dry rest. bad idea?
Gunk or simple green if so?
#13
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I spray the cleaner on, then use a mitt to clean, scrub, then rinse with low stream of water. Toothbrush, etc, on the front of the block infront of the head, and other small places. Never have covered anything up, but im carefull about where I spray water..
#15
anyone got a pic of where that KS is?
i plan on spraying the gunk foam on the valve covers (even though it is corrosive it wont hurt my coil packs will it?) and on front of block and then simple grren on intake manifold. then rinse. alright
i plan on spraying the gunk foam on the valve covers (even though it is corrosive it wont hurt my coil packs will it?) and on front of block and then simple grren on intake manifold. then rinse. alright
#16
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Knock Sensor is under your intake, you're not gonna get anything down in there unless you aim a power washer where the intake seals to the block. Simple Green says it corrodes aluminum so I'm not too much a fan of it. I'd use what is recommended in the sticky for washing your engine.
#20
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Use it if you want, others have with no problem. However, straight from the simple green consumer site..
"Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation."
Not saying you can't use it, I just don't think it's worth it when there are other less corrosive ways to clean. But, to each their own. Just giving a heads up that not too many realize.
"Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation."
Not saying you can't use it, I just don't think it's worth it when there are other less corrosive ways to clean. But, to each their own. Just giving a heads up that not too many realize.