Tick, Tick, Tick...HELP!!!
Faint TICKING...Please help I still have my 2000 Z28............I just got some new mods a couple weeks ago.....current mods are : Long tube headers, Offroad y-Pipe,dual cutouts, Spec S3 Clutch, and wires........I already had pro series diff, 3:73 gears and lid.................I initially thought it was a header leaking but I dont think so anymore. The ticking is absent when i start the car but after a minute or so its there. Its not real loud but definately noticable. Speeds up when I rev. My acceleration seems different to, as if i had a 4-barrel carburetor and the 4 barrel was hanging up (only kicking in now and then). I cant hear the ticking very well inside the car unless Im beside other cars at a light or next to something the sound can bounce off of. Any ideas or help is appreciated...............I searched posts but couldn't quit find my Combonation....................................... ..............OH Yea......Im getting a KNOCK sensor Code(bank1 or sensor1) triggering an aux. emissions control----manuf. code as well
Last edited by Jayh; Aug 27, 2005 at 06:11 PM.
the knock sensor code is your lack of power at times.there is a bulletin to replace them with a new sealer on the threads.the tick sounds to me like maybe your factory lifters or possibly you have a spark plug arcing from the boot to the spark plug base maybe even a loose plug you might want to look at the plugs for any signs of carbon tracking and make sure theyre tight.
Update Update to trouble shooting info:
Thanks for the post. I cranked the car and let it run until it started ticking at about 160 degrees. I creeped under the car and the ticking is coming from the right head/header area. Its too congested to get any more detailed than that unfortunately. I can add that its not really noticable from the top side of the engine; it mainly emits from the under side. Its still throwing the SES light and the knock sensor (sensor or bank). Thanks again............
Thanks for the post. I cranked the car and let it run until it started ticking at about 160 degrees. I creeped under the car and the ticking is coming from the right head/header area. Its too congested to get any more detailed than that unfortunately. I can add that its not really noticable from the top side of the engine; it mainly emits from the under side. Its still throwing the SES light and the knock sensor (sensor or bank). Thanks again............
my buddy (rollinsscamaro)had a ticking that was more noticeable underneath also.it was the spark plug arcing from carbon tracking.id check that back plug.and of course its always the hardest one to get to.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
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Had the same problem with my car, figured it out today. It was that the spark plugs are arking of the heat shields. I took mine off and the noise stopped. Try that out see if it helps. Also, go ahead and check all the bolts on the headers to see if they might have backed out.
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not a huge loss in preformance. i first noticed the ticking after i took my headers off. so i did lose some power. i am leaning towards maybe a lifter or something. i check all exhaust and did a plug change so those aren't it.
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Verdad Gallardo Right rear Plug I pulled the Passenger side rear plug/ like you guys said / and this is what it looked like.................................I don't know how to diagnose these buildups. It wasnt very tight when I removed it.
No Joy Cleaned the plug, put it back in tight, still ticks, still a loss of power. You punch it and it feels like im driving with the parking brake partially engaged(its not).....still throwing the SES light.......Any other ideas??
Have you tuned the car? The loss of power can be a result of running real rich after a header swap. Could be completely unrelated to the tick.
It could be a leak right at the header. Did you reuse the old gaskets or use new ones?
Increased valvetrain noise ALWAYS comes with a header swap. Much louder ticking from under the hood. Sounds like a sewing machine. That's normal.
If a plug wire is arching, start up your car and look under the hood at night time in complete darkness, you might see the spark.
Good luck.
It could be a leak right at the header. Did you reuse the old gaskets or use new ones?
Increased valvetrain noise ALWAYS comes with a header swap. Much louder ticking from under the hood. Sounds like a sewing machine. That's normal.
If a plug wire is arching, start up your car and look under the hood at night time in complete darkness, you might see the spark.
Good luck.
I had the work done by a very reputable individual and he re-used the factory gaskets. He said he's never had a problem with them leaking before but theres a first time for everything.
I don't have it tuned..........when I did the header swap, I changed my gear ratio in the computer and removed the EGR from the car and the computer.........
Everything seemed fine when I got the car back. Wasn't even 2 weeks later I heard the Ticking start (once its warmed up), then the SES light was intermiten which now stays on. The Ticking is very localized in the passenger header area.
Plug wires are brand new Taylors. Thanks for the INFO
I don't have it tuned..........when I did the header swap, I changed my gear ratio in the computer and removed the EGR from the car and the computer.........
Everything seemed fine when I got the car back. Wasn't even 2 weeks later I heard the Ticking start (once its warmed up), then the SES light was intermiten which now stays on. The Ticking is very localized in the passenger header area.
Plug wires are brand new Taylors. Thanks for the INFO
Last edited by Jayh; Aug 28, 2005 at 07:30 PM.
Reply I'm trying to get in touch with a guy I know that I can talk to in person about all this. The car is idleing and running fine, I just dont have any power, the ticking is still their and the SES light stays on.
Im hoping I can get a cheap diagnostic on a Dyno or something. I was hoping that would be a quick answer to the power loss and ticking thats throwing the code. I just hope its not real mechanical or expensive since I just dropped 2 grand (parts and labor) into it within the last month.
Thanks for all the replys so far. Im trying to do everything you guys are suggesting but the knock sensors under the intake might be out of my league.
Any further help is much appreciated.
Im hoping I can get a cheap diagnostic on a Dyno or something. I was hoping that would be a quick answer to the power loss and ticking thats throwing the code. I just hope its not real mechanical or expensive since I just dropped 2 grand (parts and labor) into it within the last month.
Thanks for all the replys so far. Im trying to do everything you guys are suggesting but the knock sensors under the intake might be out of my league.
Any further help is much appreciated.
*update* *UPDATE*
I disconnected the MAF and my powers back, I tried to clean it by pouring rubbing alcohol on it but its still not at 100 % when I plug it back up. Runs like a champ when I run it disconnected. Any suggestions?
My SES is still on, (knock sensor).....The ticking is still coming from the lower passenger side header area and seems a litle louder, comes from beneath. When I checked the plug and it was real loose. Could WOT damage anything with that plug loose like that?
If I mess around with the throttle at different RPM's an then let off, I can sometimes get the ticking to skip a tick or two (parked).?? ANY OTHER INPUTS...PLEASE?
I disconnected the MAF and my powers back, I tried to clean it by pouring rubbing alcohol on it but its still not at 100 % when I plug it back up. Runs like a champ when I run it disconnected. Any suggestions?
My SES is still on, (knock sensor).....The ticking is still coming from the lower passenger side header area and seems a litle louder, comes from beneath. When I checked the plug and it was real loose. Could WOT damage anything with that plug loose like that?
If I mess around with the throttle at different RPM's an then let off, I can sometimes get the ticking to skip a tick or two (parked).?? ANY OTHER INPUTS...PLEASE?
I think you either have a loose header bolt or two, or a crack in a weld in your headers. When the car is cool the crack or header is tight, when things get hot and expand the exhaust gases can escape.
I have a 99 C5 and can get a code readout on my DIC. Can you do that with an F-Body? If you can, get the codes and look them up. If not find someone with AutoTap, EFILive, a Tech2, or something else that can read OBD2 codes. They will tell you why the SES light is on. Then you can can fix it rather than shooting skeet in the dark. Just my $.02
I have a 99 C5 and can get a code readout on my DIC. Can you do that with an F-Body? If you can, get the codes and look them up. If not find someone with AutoTap, EFILive, a Tech2, or something else that can read OBD2 codes. They will tell you why the SES light is on. Then you can can fix it rather than shooting skeet in the dark. Just my $.02
Last edited by ArKay99; Sep 1, 2005 at 10:06 PM.