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Old 08-28-2005, 01:03 PM
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Default LS1 bolts

I know the head bolts can't be re-used on a LS1 rebuild and I would definately not re-use the rob bolts. What about the main cap hardware? I've rebuilt 1 ls1 (stock motor nothing special) but I used ARP hardware for the heads, rod bolts and main caps. I'm helping a friend rebuild his motor but he's a f*#king tight *** and wanted to reuse all the hardware for the motor, it took me week to convince him not to re-use the headbolts Can the main cap and rod bolt hardware be re-used?
Old 08-28-2005, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by fastgmc98
I know the head bolts can't be re-used on a LS1 rebuild and I would definately not re-use the rob bolts. What about the main cap hardware? I've rebuilt 1 ls1 (stock motor nothing special) but I used ARP hardware for the heads, rod bolts and main caps. I'm helping a friend rebuild his motor but he's a f*#king tight *** and wanted to reuse all the hardware for the motor, it took me week to convince him not to re-use the headbolts Can the main cap and rod bolt hardware be re-used?
Because of bolt stretching( torque angle) GM recommends not reusing it's production fasteners...such as Head bolt's,crank main caps, and rod end caps. Go ARP to be safe not sorry!!
Old 08-28-2005, 07:26 PM
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a buddy of mine is the same way except he was wanting to go to a core yard and get some used bolts out of a motor i told him he was nuts. but deff. change and go arp
Old 08-28-2005, 11:55 PM
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I'm going to have to beat it into him!!! Why take a chance with used stretched bolts that are guaranteed to fail.
Old 08-29-2005, 01:18 AM
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There was a post recently about bolts, according to the gm service manual only (as far as the main cap bolts go) only the side main cap bolts are tty. I am also in the process of a rebuild, and thunder racing also assured me that the main cap bolts are not tty. As far as the head and rod bolts, I am also going w/ some arp's.
Old 08-29-2005, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by fastgmc98
I'm going to have to beat it into him!!! Why take a chance with used stretched bolts that are guaranteed to fail.
They are not guarenteed to fail, but why gamble the motor he is rebuilding on $40.

Tell him to do it right, if one of my friends was asking me to help rebuild a LS1 and refused to buy new TTY fasteners I would not help him assemble the motor because I want no part in the shitstorm when it comes apart.
Old 08-29-2005, 05:22 PM
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I didn' know of any other way (besides beating his ***) to convince him other than by telling him they were "guaranteed to fail" but he showed up this afternoon with ARP hardware from the local speedshop!!!!!!
Old 09-04-2005, 01:33 PM
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Read the following cut and paste from GM Service Information for 2003 Corvette, there is NO mention to replace main cap bolts. Only reason to replace the side bolts is because of the sealer placed on the bolt flange.

______________________________

To prevent engine block oil leakage, install NEW M8 crankshaft bearing cap side bolts. The crankshaft bearing cap M8 side bolts have a sealant patch applied to the bolt flange


Notice
To maintain proper crankshaft end play, use extreme care during crankshaft installation. Avoid scoring or damaging the thrust bearing.

Install the crankshaft.

Important
The bearing caps must be installed in the proper location and direction.

Install the crankshaft bearing caps, with bearings, into the engine block.
Start the M10 bolts and bolt/studs.
Tap the bearing caps into place with a plastic-faced hammer.

Start the NEW M8 bearing cap side bolts. -ONLY MENTION OF NEW BOLTS IN THE PROCEDURE

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Tighten the inner M10 bearing cap bolts first pass in sequence to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Important
To properly align the crankshaft thrust bearings, the final thrust of the crankshaft MUST be in the forward direction.

Using a plastic faced hammer, tap the crankshaft rearward then forward to align the thrust bearings.
Tighten the inner M10 bolts final pass in sequence 80 degrees using the J 36660-A .
Tighten the outer M10 bolts/studs first pass in sequence to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
Tighten the outer M10 bolts/studs final pass in sequence 53 degrees using the J 36660-A .
Tighten the bearing cap side M8 bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft). Tighten the bolt on one side of the bearing cap and then tighten the bolt on the opposite side of the same bearing cap.

Install the crankshaft position sensor.
Inspect the crankshaft position sensor O-ring seal. If the O-ring seal is not cut or damaged, it may be used.
Coat the O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
Install the sensor. Align the notch in the sensor retaining bracket with the bolt hole in the block.
Install the sensor bolt. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft position sensor bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Measure the crankshaft end play.
Thrust the crankshaft forward or rearward.
Insert a feeler gage between the center crankshaft bearing and the bearing surface of the crankshaft and measure the bearing clearance. The proper crankshaft end play clearance is 0.04-0.2 mm (0.0015-0.0078 in).
If the bearing clearance is not within specifications, inspect the thrust surfaces for nicks, gouges or raised metal. Minor imperfections may be removed with a fine stone.




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