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CheaTR+Stock LS1=?????

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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 11:24 AM
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Default CheaTR+Stock LS1=?????

Been reading alot about this CheaTR cam, but most of the people who have it have other mods (FAST intake, heads etc)
So my biggest question is
On a stock LS1 what kind of gains would I see?
Or would it be better to get the other mods first THEN go put the CheaTR in?
The fact that it makes good power without having headers is a HUGE plus (not a big fan of headers, and their attendant problems)
So what's the verdict on a stock 02 LS1 is it worth putting this cam in, or should I get more mods then go for the cam?
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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20>25rwhp if properly tuned.
Get ported TB, bellows, Fuel Pressure regulator at rails and the cam.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 02:29 PM
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Jason 99TA picked up 35 rwhp cam only running stock exhaust manifolds, cats and Hooker catback.

A 2001 C5 with headers picked up 42 rwhp cam only.

Gains with few mods are very good with the CheaTR. Do a title search with the name CheaTR and you'll see.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 10:12 PM
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Id say if you are not planning on modding heavily the CheaTR is a good choice. Id say if you are planning on Modding heavily, the CheaTR is a good choice. lol

If you really wanted to keep it sleepr, do the SLP dual/dual, that cam, pulley, lid, tune tune tune and a converter or good gear and clutch for a manual..should be a fun car.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 11:25 PM
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you will know there is a cam in the car however. A nd it'll shake a bit more then stock at idle. It isnt at "stealth" as i had hoped and as it intially seemed to be.

Dave
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 04:39 AM
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I agree, even with my high flow cats on, you can tell its a cammed car. Its just not as blatent.
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 07:40 AM
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The amount of stealth is directly proportional to your idle speed. I found that an 800 rpm idle gave a beat to the CheaTR cam, but an 850 rpm idle was really stock sounding.

If you were wanting lope, I'm sure a 650 rpm idle would sound pretty mean.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.

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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 11:13 AM
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Well I don't mind a little lope, but some of the cams I've listened to are just too much (back when I was 18-20 they would've been fine)
Patrick, I did do a search, but the ones that were running this cam(at least in the threads I read) seemed to have more extensive mods ie TB, intake, and so on, so I wondered how this cam would be in a basically stock car (lid, catback) I don't mind doing the mods required to get a good result out of the cam, but since changing a cam is a little more involved, I just wondered if I could do the cam first, have a worthwhile result, then move on to the other mods as time and money(and wife) allowed, or if it would be better to do the other mods first and do the cam as the last thing
This cam appeals to me primarily for the drivability, (I and the wife like AC when it's 100+) this is my DD and I need it to be reliable, I'm willing to sacrifice some HP for reliability, and while an LS1 is one of the faster cars I've owned I'd like a little more
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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This is precisely the appeal of this cam ... it doesn't absolutely require headers, so you can do what you're suggesting and it will work. You may want to put on a UD pulley since you're going to be pulling it anyway, but other than that, you can do your mods one by one.
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 01:26 PM
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That brings up another question, how ofte would I have to change springs? (I'd go with dual springs either Manley or Comp)
I usually put 13-15k per year on it
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 04:57 PM
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Once a year or every 12>15K miles you should remove the springs and measure their specs. If they are within tolerances you are good for another 10K if not change.
Think of this as spring maintenance, just like oil change.
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