racecar

Pull the valve covers, start there because it is easy, look for bent pushrods, broken rockers, broken valve springs, etc. That would be the easy fix, if all that looks good, pull the plugs and do a leak down test for a bent valve. And get the rev limiter hooked up unless you think you can keep the free revs to 6000. We have all done this, but not to 7000 (or more). It's good for a laugh. Revving without a limit, that's like wild sex without a condom. It feels good but there is a risk.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

do an oil change, if there is a lot of metal start looking for a new forged shortblock

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I guess it would help if you described what a "Sick and twisted performance package" consisted of.

What in that package necessitated you removing your rev limiter?

???

BigDaddyZ28

If that guy was the same one that told you that the 'synthetic oil' may have caused your problem, I would not believe him, he may be retarded...

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Its probably a bent valve. I've had it happen 2 times.
Phil

dipherentdesign

it wasn't.

"sick n twisted performance" is just a gimmick, not relevent to this conversation...asside from the rev limter thing...

SporkLover

iTrader: (2)

Revving an engine that high without a load on it is the just like pulling the pin on a grenade. Look out.

I suggest, as many others have, that you check your pushrods. It's easy, pull the coil pack rails, and valve covers, and then one by one start removing rocker arms. Pull the pushrods, and check them for straightness..... any kind of a curvature is a bad thing, replace the bad ones, and then see if your tick goes away.

Bad collapsed lifter usually have that ticking sound, plus oil pressure variations.

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Just to let you know, once this is all fixed, don't rev your crap with no load on the engine. True gearheads know that.

Since I don't see any mods in your sig I'm going to guess that you have a basically stock long block. Based on that I can think of a few weakpoints that might be at fault. In order of possibility:
1) Pushrods. The factory made the OE pushrods light weight for reasons unknown. They are prone to bending if you miss a shift or rev too high.
2)Rockers. You might have one or more that puked the needle bearings out of the fulcrum.
3)Bent valve. You can imagine your flimsy stock behive valvespring not able to control the valve at 6,500+ rpm and it can't get the valve out of the way in time to have the piston "kiss" it. It might be slightly bent.
4)Rod bearings. They can be spun due to lack of oil film at very high rpm and high stress that they weren't designed for (7,000 rpm).
5)Lifter. I doubt it's your lifter. That's all I'll say about that.

I think this tapping is from slack in the valvetrain.Your rocker is tapping the tip of the valve. I doubt your valvespring is broken because you don't have double springs. Since you have a single spring your valve would have already dropped into the bore causing you to not having a running engine at all. You probably bent a pushrod. Luckily it's the cheapest thing to replace. when you get the rockers off, roll each rod on a plane of glass or mirror and I'm sure you'll see one or more wobble(bent). A hardened set of pushrods will cost you about $100. If you want, pm me and I'll get you my phone number if you need detailed teardown/install advise.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

I'm gonna say it's probably a bent push rod or a spun bearing like everyone else. My advice to you would be: 1. Don't free rev! 2. If it does turn out to be a pushrod (cross your fingers) don't put chrome moly or hardened pushrods in an otherwise stock valvetrain. It's a bad idea, the stock ones are weak for a reason. They are the weak link, and much easier and cheaper than fixing a bent valve.

bad0211secws6

iTrader: (6)

well did you get the covers off and check your pushrods yet? by the way repolace them with hardened ones while your there!!

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

I have heard that since the 1st grade, I guess we are the only ones.

dipherentdesign

a sincere thanks to all of you that are helping and not just harrassing me for my blatent ignorance. To whoever it was:

• no i haven't removed anything yet-i'm stupid enough to break it, but not stupid enough to start tearing things apart...i'm just an artist...this gear head stuff is for higher intelligence.

• if i replace one push rod, should i just do them all? The car is almost 100k miles so should i replace the whole valvetrain? One of you said stock and the other said hardened after market well....which is it?

once again, i really appreciate the help many of you have offered. I'm sure this one will go down in ls1tech history...hmm, glad i could leave my mark somehow.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

the rest of the valvetrain should be fine if it is a push rod. Put STOCK pushrods in a stock motor. Don't listen to anyone who says otherwise.

Tech

iTrader: (1)

Even artists should know not to beat on an engine with oil pressure dropping. You're gonna get the 'Bonehead of the Month' award if that's a spun bearing.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

stretched rod bolts, maybe?????

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

rotflmao

3rdgenguy

iTrader: (1)

so let me get this right........ whapaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa(7000 rpm).....something went "see ya" under the valve cover. then tink..ta ta.tink ta tink..ta tink.. ya um......no more words on this one




**** happens just don't do it again please






thanks
Nick

GREATWALLTA

I would seriously take the valve cover off for an inspection just to be save. If you have stock push rods oreder some chrome molly ones from CompCams or Texas Speed Performance's wall sized pushrods. Even if you don't have a bent push rod switch them out for stronger ones anyways. Better springs will help too if you still have stock ones. For your kind of driving everything above are a MUSTBUY.

bad0211secws6

iTrader: (6)

yeah why put a better part in? that way next time you over rev during a mis-shift you can bend another factory straw!

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Well, the reason I asked was maybe you had a heads and cam setup and already had hardened pushrods ect. Didn't realize that it was mearly raising the rev limiter (eerrrr, eliminating it).

Good luck and hopefully it's a cheap lesson learned.