tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap
09-05-2005, 08:13 PM
#41
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the whole "666 sick and twisted thing" is just my convaluted re-wording of GM's less aggressive sounding "performance package." I had all intensions of turning my car into a beast, but i think my car is gonna be turned into a cavalier at the end of this month.
09-05-2005, 09:06 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by bad0211secws6
yeah why put a better part in? that way next time you over rev during a mis-shift you can bend another factory straw!
You need to stick with the stock pushrods when the rest of your valvetrain, especially the springs, is stock.
IF you are lucky enough to have just a bent pushrod from an over-rev condition, consider yourself lucky. Because what has happened is when you over-rev'd the engine, the stock valvesprings let the valves "float" this is a condition where the valves are moving so fast the weak factory springs can't seat the valves back down in time - the valve contacts the top of the piston- then the piston forcing the valve back down bends a pushrod. But in this case, as I said you are lucky, because all you have to do is replace an inexpensive factory pushrod or rods.
Now, you replace those weak factory pushrods with some good strong aftermarket ones, and guess what? Next time mr. piston contacts mr. valve, the pusrods does mot give, because you replaced it with a stronger one. So what DOES give? A valve !! Now you have a VERY expensive problem -bent valves, damaged pistons, etc.
The factory rev. limiter is there because GM knew the soft springs could not handle the higher revs. So they tried to engineer in some idiot-proofing.
Point of the story is: you upgrade from stock pushrods, you MUST upgrade the springs as well. That is why, it was recommended by calongo_SS to replace the factory "straws" with more factory "straws" - bent pushrods much cheaper than engine rebuild!!!
09-05-2005, 09:39 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by dummer
You need to stick with the stock pushrods when the rest of your valvetrain, especially the springs, is stock.
IF you are lucky enough to have just a bent pushrod from an over-rev condition, consider yourself lucky. Because what has happened is when you over-rev'd the engine, the stock valvesprings let the valves "float" this is a condition where the valves are moving so fast the weak factory springs can't seat the valves back down in time - the valve contacts the top of the piston- then the piston forcing the valve back down bends a pushrod. But in this case, as I said you are lucky, because all you have to do is replace an inexpensive factory pushrod or rods.
Now, you replace those weak factory pushrods with some good strong aftermarket ones, and guess what? Next time mr. piston contacts mr. valve, the pusrods does mot give, because you replaced it with a stronger one. So what DOES give? A valve !! Now you have a VERY expensive problem -bent valves, damaged pistons, etc.
The factory rev. limiter is there because GM knew the soft springs could not handle the higher revs. So they tried to engineer in some idiot-proofing.
Point of the story is: you upgrade from stock pushrods, you MUST upgrade the springs as well. That is why, it was recommended by calongo_SS to replace the factory "straws" with more factory "straws" - bent pushrods much cheaper than engine rebuild!!!
at the dealership.i talked him into hardened comp pushrods and he has not had an incident since. he has taken it to us for several oil changes since than and has recomended them also to his friends.this however is just my opinion
take it for what its worth.there is obviously others with a different opinion
and that is there perogative after all this is america
09-06-2005, 07:22 PM
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I was thinking about this thread the other day and I'm just gonna have to bring it back...
If you reved your engine high enough to get the stock tack to read 7k there is no telling what your engine was really at. If I free rev my engine it hits the 6200 rev limiter while the tack is still reading 4k, thats how slow our tacks are. So if yours was reading 7k your engine could have easily been around 9-10k rpm, ouch!
If you reved your engine high enough to get the stock tack to read 7k there is no telling what your engine was really at. If I free rev my engine it hits the 6200 rev limiter while the tack is still reading 4k, thats how slow our tacks are. So if yours was reading 7k your engine could have easily been around 9-10k rpm, ouch!
09-06-2005, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by connecticut
location? post in regional area and maybe a local can help out
Originally Posted by SPEEDYws6
I was thinking about this thread the other day and I'm just gonna have to bring it back...
If you reved your engine high enough to get the stock tack to read 7k there is no telling what your engine was really at. If I free rev my engine it hits the 6200 rev limiter while the tack is still reading 4k, thats how slow our tacks are. So if yours was reading 7k your engine could have easily been around 9-10k rpm, ouch!
If you reved your engine high enough to get the stock tack to read 7k there is no telling what your engine was really at. If I free rev my engine it hits the 6200 rev limiter while the tack is still reading 4k, thats how slow our tacks are. So if yours was reading 7k your engine could have easily been around 9-10k rpm, ouch!
09-06-2005, 10:22 PM
#50
No way a stock LS1 would rev to 10,000rpm without the bottom end giving out. If your motor is nearly stock the tach will be close to right. My rev limiter is 6600 and it hits it when the tach says about 6200. Do yourself a favor a put the rev limiter back on. Set to 6200rpm to be safe.
09-07-2005, 07:41 PM
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OK HERE'S THE UPDATE!!!!
so my buddy an i crackopen the valve cover on the passenger side to see that rocker #2 is EXTREMELY loose. So we inspect the pushrod; it's fine. Inspect the rocker; it's fine...oh ****...gotta keep digging-it was a broken LIFTER! it took us like 6 hours of unscrewing, unbolting and digging....we had to take off the manifold covers, the intake and the headders to finally reveal a single broken lifter. It sucked that we had to do all that but it was better than being charged 700+ in time/parts to have the pros do it.
i've learned a lot about this engine just in doing all of this...holy cow, i can't wait to sell this car.
so my buddy an i crackopen the valve cover on the passenger side to see that rocker #2 is EXTREMELY loose. So we inspect the pushrod; it's fine. Inspect the rocker; it's fine...oh ****...gotta keep digging-it was a broken LIFTER! it took us like 6 hours of unscrewing, unbolting and digging....we had to take off the manifold covers, the intake and the headders to finally reveal a single broken lifter. It sucked that we had to do all that but it was better than being charged 700+ in time/parts to have the pros do it.
i've learned a lot about this engine just in doing all of this...holy cow, i can't wait to sell this car.
09-07-2005, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dipherentdesign
OK HERE'S THE UPDATE!!!!
so my buddy an i crackopen the valve cover on the passenger side to see that rocker #2 is EXTREMELY loose. So we inspect the pushrod; it's fine. Inspect the rocker; it's fine...oh ****...gotta keep digging-it was a broken LIFTER! it took us like 6 hours of unscrewing, unbolting and digging....we had to take off the manifold covers, the intake and the headders to finally reveal a single broken lifter. It sucked that we had to do all that but it was better than being charged 700+ in time/parts to have the pros do it.
i've learned a lot about this engine just in doing all of this...holy cow, i can't wait to sell this car.
so my buddy an i crackopen the valve cover on the passenger side to see that rocker #2 is EXTREMELY loose. So we inspect the pushrod; it's fine. Inspect the rocker; it's fine...oh ****...gotta keep digging-it was a broken LIFTER! it took us like 6 hours of unscrewing, unbolting and digging....we had to take off the manifold covers, the intake and the headders to finally reveal a single broken lifter. It sucked that we had to do all that but it was better than being charged 700+ in time/parts to have the pros do it.
i've learned a lot about this engine just in doing all of this...holy cow, i can't wait to sell this car.
oh i found my stock pushrods you can have em for shipping costs if you want?
hmmmmmmmm i guess the lifter was the weak link this time not the "straw"
haha
09-08-2005, 11:25 PM
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If you don't mind me asking, how did you figure out that that lifter was bad? Did you pull the heads off? If not then what method did you use to pull them out? Thanks,
Thomas
Thomas
09-09-2005, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tkami129
If you don't mind me asking, how did you figure out that that lifter was bad? Did you pull the heads off? If not then what method did you use to pull them out? Thanks,
Thomas
Thomas
we found that one of the rockers "jiggled" more than the others...at first we figured "bad rocker" but just to test, we swapped the "bad one" with a "good one" and ..... the "good one" jiggled as much....that's when we realized it was a collapsed lifter...about 5 hours of diggin' we found that the one lifter had collapsed about 2mm and wasn't holding any oil.
09-10-2005, 10:11 PM
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Sorry, stupid question, to get the lifter out, you took the cylinder head off, right?, and when you mean rockers "jiggled", is that up and down or just side to side? Thanks and sorry for the dumb post
09-11-2005, 03:43 AM
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I'll ???? the "jiggling" stuff myself. BTW I have a set of 875-16 Comp lifters for sale...lol, they'll go great in there!!!
Since you plan on selling the car put stock back in it but FYI the ecotech 2.2l ain't much better itself...just a quick heads up, they all work pretty much the same way and all need the same things to run, air, fuel, spark, and timing...that's all. It's not rocket science, unless you make it, it's not difficult, unless you make, an artist CAN do it, and as a matter of fact anyone can. My girl can do it, and she's BLONDE!!! LOL J/K. All you need are time, tools, a computer, and some basic common sense. Leave the rest up to "us" on the board who have went through it before, to those who work at dealerships, to tose who have had many many lsx based cars, and to those who help anyone out for free or just for the love of helping out someone else who wants to outrun a mustang every now and then on the street. Financial aid is another thing though, if you've got the money, someone here has the time to help you out. I have asked and recieved many of times, not saying I am an expert by any means but I know a little about valvetrains, enough to gte me by and into 7800 RPM revs, with a load of course, with out damaging my motor or anything yet...never think you cant do something for yourself until you at least try!!! Just my opinion!!!
Since you plan on selling the car put stock back in it but FYI the ecotech 2.2l ain't much better itself...just a quick heads up, they all work pretty much the same way and all need the same things to run, air, fuel, spark, and timing...that's all. It's not rocket science, unless you make it, it's not difficult, unless you make, an artist CAN do it, and as a matter of fact anyone can. My girl can do it, and she's BLONDE!!! LOL J/K. All you need are time, tools, a computer, and some basic common sense. Leave the rest up to "us" on the board who have went through it before, to those who work at dealerships, to tose who have had many many lsx based cars, and to those who help anyone out for free or just for the love of helping out someone else who wants to outrun a mustang every now and then on the street. Financial aid is another thing though, if you've got the money, someone here has the time to help you out. I have asked and recieved many of times, not saying I am an expert by any means but I know a little about valvetrains, enough to gte me by and into 7800 RPM revs, with a load of course, with out damaging my motor or anything yet...never think you cant do something for yourself until you at least try!!! Just my opinion!!!
09-11-2005, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tkami129
Sorry, stupid question, to get the lifter out, you took the cylinder head off, right?, and when you mean rockers "jiggled", is that up and down or just side to side? Thanks and sorry for the dumb post
"giggling" = more like up/down-b/c your broken lifter or bent rod will allow the one end to sink more than it should. It's so easy to notice man, they all have a bit of play, but the one that is your "problem-spot" is gonna chatter A LOT.
I actually wrote up a whole tear down on LS1.com if you'd like me to post it?