Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Why did my Z06 dyno so low? Lots of mods, low numbers

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-07-2005, 02:59 PM
  #61  
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
 
THRLSKR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Shawn -

Have read through your posts and I know where you're coming from.

So here's my advice: STOP BENCH RACING.

My cam only z06 put down 449 on my old tune / didn't re-dyno after the new tune (New tune was entirely done on the street for drivability) - but should give you an idea of where your at.

If you are curious how the car really runs as opposed to what the rollers say I am in Philly and work in Wilmington and would be happy to meet up with you sometime.

Just a friendly gesture -

Bill

Shoot me a PM.
Old 09-07-2005, 03:01 PM
  #62  
Banned
iTrader: (23)
 
JZ'sTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ft. Myers Fl
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Frans96SS
ok so by cutting the pistons that will lower the compression ....and by putting a smaller head gasket on it it will raise it back up proably to where u started with .... so the point of that is? not trying to be a dick just asking?



Sir maybe you missed the word milling in my sentense.
That is where the big difference comes into play.
However lets say I left the milling out which I clearly didn't, have you ever heard of a word called quench?
Also even if you didn't mill the current setup is at 10.6:1.
Lets flycut and run a .040 gasket. Now you get better quench and 10.75:1 compression.
What I suggested was running a .045 gasket and a 59 or so cc head. Now your sitting right at 11.5:1 which will change a bunch of thingf towards the better. That cam will work better as well. A nice amount of power will be gained. You will want to mill the heads around .035-.040.
Old 09-07-2005, 04:52 PM
  #63  
LS1TECH Sponsor
 
1Hawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Sir maybe you missed the word milling in my sentense.
That is where the big difference comes into play.
However lets say I left the milling out which I clearly didn't, have you ever heard of a word called quench?
Also even if you didn't mill the current setup is at 10.6:1.
Lets flycut and run a .040 gasket. Now you get better quench and 10.75:1 compression.
What I suggested was running a .045 gasket and a 59 or so cc head. Now your sitting right at 11.5:1 which will change a bunch of thingf towards the better. That cam will work better as well. A nice amount of power will be gained. You will want to mill the heads around .035-.040.

Old 09-07-2005, 05:54 PM
  #64  
Banned
iTrader: (15)
 
Frans96SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Castle Del.
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
I could care less what the 9 thousand was spent on, and that is why I clearly stated we need to stay on topic. Airing up the tires is pointless. Maybe yu can run a shortbelt and throw the car in a climent controlled room in 60 degree AC. What is the point of that. Nobody wants a dyno number when your changing the way the car drives every day. Porting the TB and leaning her out are good starts.
Also the reason I said subpar is because P/V was never checked. With a cam as big as this and work done to the heads checking p/v is very important. Again that is over with and done with. If you feel you did nothing wrong then thats fine and either way a waste to argue over. If my post upset you I am sorry. Now lets get this back on topic.


i totally agree with u that airing up the tires will do nothin but give u a few hp on the dyno thats why i didnt do it when i was there but with a combination of all the things mentioned it will add up .........at least to just get a number.....u didnt upset me ata ll i can take some feedback......im gonna do that do the car and redyno it as soon as shawn can bring me back the car....
Old 09-07-2005, 05:57 PM
  #65  
Banned
iTrader: (15)
 
Frans96SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Castle Del.
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Sir maybe you missed the word milling in my sentense.
That is where the big difference comes into play.
However lets say I left the milling out which I clearly didn't, have you ever heard of a word called quench?
Also even if you didn't mill the current setup is at 10.6:1.
Lets flycut and run a .040 gasket. Now you get better quench and 10.75:1 compression.
What I suggested was running a .045 gasket and a 59 or so cc head. Now your sitting right at 11.5:1 which will change a bunch of thingf towards the better. That cam will work better as well. A nice amount of power will be gained. You will want to mill the heads around .035-.040.


i understand what ur saying and yes i know what quench is......but this isnt the reason its down on power..... is all im saying...... every heads cam set up doesnt need this done ....so there for its not a must to do it...... im gonna try a few other things and redyno it then we will post up the new results.....
Old 09-07-2005, 05:58 PM
  #66  
Banned
iTrader: (15)
 
Frans96SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Castle Del.
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by THRLSKR
Shawn -

Have read through your posts and I know where you're coming from.

So here's my advice: STOP BENCH RACING.

My cam only z06 put down 449 on my old tune / didn't re-dyno after the new tune (New tune was entirely done on the street for drivability) - but should give you an idea of where your at.

If you are curious how the car really runs as opposed to what the rollers say I am in Philly and work in Wilmington and would be happy to meet up with you sometime.

Just a friendly gesture -

Bill

Shoot me a PM.



i totally agree with u on this one thats why i told him lets take it to the track and go from there
Old 09-07-2005, 06:42 PM
  #67  
TECH Regular
 
Steve40th's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 430
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Shawn MacAnanny
I took my car to get it dyno tuned today. It had a mail order tune from HPE which was working pretty well. On the dyno the A/F was perfect, but the injectors were just about maxed out as far as duty cycle. Anyway i am very dissappointed with my numbers.

I managed a best of 410rwhp and a best of 380rwtq SAE. Now i have some pretty heavy modifications so i was wondering why it was so low.

I have a 2001 Corvette Z06. It has:

ET Performance CNC'd LS6 heads 2.055 valves, 309CFM @ .650 lift (intake), not milled
HPE S cam, 238/242 .608/.612 115LSA
Kooks 1 7/8" headers, 3" x pipe
chamered 3" mufflers
borla straight pipes
vararam
LS6 intake
new plug wires
new plugs
160 thermostat
spec 3 clutch
billet steel flywheel
dte brace


Car was tuned on the dyno with 30 degrees of timing advance.

Any ideas guys? I am trying to download a viewer for the dyno files. I post the graph as soon as it's finished.
That looks fine. there are so many variables on a dyno, ie temp/humidity, SAE, tire pressure etc etc. Run it down the track and see what she will do. ALso, did you use a Wideband to see A/F ratio?
Old 09-07-2005, 06:54 PM
  #68  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Shawn MacAnanny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,105
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I was told 480rwhp and 10 seconds ETs. That's what i purchased. I shouldn't need a 90/90 and i shouldnt need to pump up my nittos above 17psi. I drive everyday at that pressure. I don't know much about cars so i was a litlte dissappointed with my dyno numbers. Also i did ask if he needed to check PTV clearence and he said no. A few days later he was explaining how ET sent him the wrong heads. While that was not his fault, if he had checked it i would have had my car almost 2 weeks sooner, and there would have been no bent valves.

The main thing is i am not wasting anymore money on this car. If it can't make me atleast 30rwhp more without costing me anything, then it's a lost cause to me. It didnt take well to mods, there's no assurance it will do any better with other mods. So a 90/90 is out of the question, and other things. I might consider injectors but that's it. The thing is i shouldnt have to put more money into it. I should be up alot more power. People dyno alot higher than i do with stock heads and a cam. I don't know what the problem is but I'm a little discouraged.

I think something may have been overlooked. Possibly 1 spark plug gapped wrong, injectors being too far maxed out, possibly cam degreed wrong, having engine knock, or something simple that can have a huge affect. I dont think it's the setup that is the problem becuase other people run the cam or heads and get much better numbers. I think the problem lies in another area.

Fran says they coudlnt check the knock with LS1edit (what they used ot dyno tune) so we dont know if the engine is knocking or what. With 30 degrees of timing and 7200 rpm with a much noiser engine, do you think i could possibly be getting knock and that's what killing my power?
Old 09-07-2005, 06:57 PM
  #69  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Shawn MacAnanny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,105
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

They used something in the tail pipe to check A/F. I have no cats as well so it should be pretty accurate. Temperature was like 85 degrees, i forget the humidity, tires were at 17 psi but i checked them (with my hand) after the 3rd run and they were pretty stiff since they were run up to 160mph or so. Heated up pretty good.
Old 09-07-2005, 06:58 PM
  #70  
Banned
iTrader: (23)
 
JZ'sTA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ft. Myers Fl
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Frans96SS
i understand what ur saying and yes i know what quench is......but this isnt the reason its down on power..... is all im saying...... every heads cam set up doesnt need this done ....so there for its not a must to do it...... im gonna try a few other things and redyno it then we will post up the new results.....


I totally agreee not every H/C package need this done, however this one might. As said by some others a tiny P/V problem could be happening but not enough to destroy the heads. I doubt it myself, but isn't a problem I have ever seen first hand and therefore I haven't voiced a oponion. If this is the problem by chance at least you have now solved the problem, added compression which is good for this setup and now have a near perfect quench rate. Chasing down problems suck. I feel even with the current compression 440 should be siting on your dyno sheet once tuned correctly.
Every Z06 I have touched acts like it cant wait to make more power. Geting 440+ is almost easy when you have someone who wants a H/C package. Normally the extra power is found with very good boltons which you have.

If tearing off the heads isn't for you start small. Port the TB. Get the tune on the money. Make sure all plugs are good and all wires are on tight. Check for vaccuum leaks.

If the heads do come off while your there make sure the cam isn't a tooth off.
Old 09-07-2005, 07:09 PM
  #71  
Banned
iTrader: (15)
 
Frans96SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Castle Del.
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
I totally agreee not every H/C package need this done, however this one might. As said by some others a tiny P/V problem could be happening but not enough to destroy the heads. I doubt it myself, but isn't a problem I have ever seen first hand and therefore I haven't voiced a oponion. If this is the problem by chance at least you have now solved the problem, added compression which is good for this setup and now have a near perfect quench rate. Chasing down problems suck. I feel even with the current compression 440 should be siting on your dyno sheet once tuned correctly.
Every Z06 I have touched acts like it cant wait to make more power. Geting 440+ is almost easy when you have someone who wants a H/C package. Normally the extra power is found with very good boltons which you have.

If tearing off the heads isn't for you start small. Port the TB. Get the tune on the money. Make sure all plugs are good and all wires are on tight. Check for vaccuum leaks.

If the heads do come off while your there make sure the cam isn't a tooth off.



i agree u do want good quench.... and im goin to port the tb and check all those things but with this cam if its off a tooth it wont fit..... at all so i think thats out of the ?......... i think we can get about 430 out of it with leaning it out alittle and porting the tb ect......
Old 09-08-2005, 05:12 AM
  #72  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Shawn MacAnanny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,105
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Well i'll let Fran take care of it in the next week or so and we'll see what he can find out.
Old 09-08-2005, 08:23 AM
  #73  
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
 
Craig@ETPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

" few days later he was explaining how ET sent him the wrong heads. While that was not his fault, if he had checked it i would have had my car almost 2 weeks sooner, and there would have been no bent valves."


There is no truth to this statement. If it was made by Fran I am very disappointed in this. These are the 2.055" LS6 sylinder heads that we do. We also did the repair to them so if you need anything answered about the heads Shawn contact me.

I will agree with taking it to the track and running it.
Old 09-08-2005, 09:01 AM
  #74  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
 
Got Me SOM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 6,368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

quite frankly i think he's overcammed and not running enough compression..

i've seen smaller cams make more power throughout the rpm range.
cam only cars are making that kind of power easy.

I'd be pissed too if i shelled a lot of money and got mediocre results.
Old 09-08-2005, 09:08 AM
  #75  
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
 
roadrash9r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: FORT WALTON BEACH
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey Im probably gonna get dinged for this, but the car that had the valves tapping the pistons lightly, made no power until the knock sensors were turned off. It pulled all the timing out. Was 389whp with knock sensors on and 410 with knock sensors off. so thats 21hp just from lack of timing (knock sensor picking up the noise from the valve hitting the piston). Also 30 degrees of timing is kinda high for our engines without being able to tell if its knocking. In the long run thats a big cam and a big intake valve, clearance should have been checked, and if it was no one would question it, I am.

Last edited by roadrash9r; 09-08-2005 at 09:13 AM.
Old 09-08-2005, 05:31 PM
  #76  
TECH Addict
 
DaddySS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Rather than look for a silver bullet, I think you need to now analyze what you have and what has to be done to fix it. Your torque numbers start off low, you don't break 350 until 4200, and then where they should continue to climb through 5200, they fall off at 4700. There's a definite problem here so maybe start by opening up the exhaust and see what happens.
Old 09-09-2005, 07:15 AM
  #77  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Shawn MacAnanny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,105
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Well Fran has offered to come pick it up for me on Sunday. I'm gonna let him keep it for a week and get everything worked out. I broke my left ankle yesterday so i cant drive it anyway so i figure that's a good time to get everything fixed. Any ideas you post Fran will read and check out so keep them coming guys. You're doing an awesome job.

So what you guys are basically telling me is that my setup is for a stroker or something? I still would think i'd make more power with it. The cam is pretty tame in my car, it idles that is, and rarely stalls out from the AC. just from the bolts ons and ported heads though i should be seeing the numbers i have right? Regardless of camshaft size i should be at that level even if the cam were stock or even if the heads were stock the cam only should be making that power. I dunno I'm just gonna let Fran figure it out. He's been taking care of me and is actually driving the 2 hours to pick up my car since i cant drive it to him.
Old 09-09-2005, 07:35 AM
  #78  
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
 
roadrash9r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: FORT WALTON BEACH
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

your numbers are low, and look at the earlier post of 449 "cam" only z06. He has ALL bolt ons and a 90/90 setup. I have all bolt ons and AFR 205s and am at 440ish (no 90/90). So all setups are different. All dynos will show different power. With your setup you "should" be in the 460s-480s end of story. It should not drive as well as you say it does with the big headers, big heads, and big cam. Mine likes to drop rpm coming to a stop with a 224 cam if the ac is on. You say it rarely stalls. Do you meen shut off stalls or drops rpm? Mine drops rpm to almost 450-500 at every stop with the ac on. With it off it does fine. Bad luck with the ankle, sucks.

Last edited by roadrash9r; 09-09-2005 at 07:44 AM.
Old 09-09-2005, 11:16 AM
  #79  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Shawn MacAnanny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,105
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Mine has stalled out about 3 times from the ac compressor turning on or turning off at a stoplight. I dont consider it radical or anything, but i mean it is a noticeable cam. It shakes the entire car at idle and it does idle up and down when i put it in neutral coming to a stop or something. It's stalled out twice doing that. To me that's normal though. Very streetable. On the highway it gets 24mpg, around 19-20 in the city. Very nice cam but i think it needs to be tuned better.
Old 09-09-2005, 11:27 AM
  #80  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Chuck@'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by roadrash9r
your numbers are low, and look at the earlier post of 449 "cam" only z06. He has ALL bolt ons and a 90/90 setup. I have all bolt ons and AFR 205s and am at 440ish (no 90/90). So all setups are different. All dynos will show different power. With your setup you "should" be in the 460s-480s end of story. It should not drive as well as you say it does with the big headers, big heads, and big cam. Mine likes to drop rpm coming to a stop with a 224 cam if the ac is on. You say it rarely stalls. Do you meen shut off stalls or drops rpm? Mine drops rpm to almost 450-500 at every stop with the ac on. With it off it does fine. Bad luck with the ankle, sucks.
That sounds to me like your tune. A 224 cam should idle almost like stock and certainly not have any stalling problems.

Shawn, I only took one stab at your tune. While the car is at Frans shop I'll send him a new tune to load up that should fix the stalling with the ac on problem. We'll also lean it out a little and see if that yields any power increase.

Chuck


Quick Reply: Why did my Z06 dyno so low? Lots of mods, low numbers



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:54 PM.