I'm putting a stock LS1 out of a '99 vette into my '67 camaro. I think that the stock ls1 sounds too mild for a muscle car. I'd like something with a lopey-rough sound, that is still streetable. I am spending enough money on putting the engine in the car, that i don't want to touch anything else in the stock block. It's a M6, looking at either 3.73's or 3.42.. Gotta build a rear end- will be stealing a GM 8.5 from a '75 nova. Gears are still up in the air. Any feedback would be excellent.
olly

 

TR224 on a 112lsa +, true dual exhaust with X pipe and 3:73 or 4:10s depending on whether you want more drag capabilities or more cruising.

 

Magic stick or F14 would sound really mean!! 224 cams dont sound that mean to me the Magic stick has a lot more overlap
stock is like -35*
224 or 112LSA is 0*
Magic stick is +13.5*
F14 is +9*
have man even look at the GM ASA cam I think its +11*
Mine is +20* its really mean!!

 

You guys crack me up picking cams for the way they sound.
take a TR224 112, reduce idle speed with chambered muffs and it will sound pretty rough.
I wish I could make you hear my Stealth 224 on a 116 with a cutout on reduced idle, you will say "That is not Stealth".
Pick a cam for the power range and for the purpose of the car.

 

I have been listening to the cam clips on the video/sound clips page, and i really liked the sound of the Hotcam with a low idle, and the Comp Cams 230-232 112+2lsa... But what worries me is that it's at .59~ lift. Could that be because of the ratio of the rocker arms?. I am clueless at the specs on cams except that i know what the meaning of the words duration and lift. I need to know what the stock rockers/springs can handle. I looked up a cam that had a very close duration to that one, and it had an optimum powerband of around 2000-7000 rpm band. Would it still be cruiseable at around 80 with 3.73's in 6'th gear without murdering my economy? Would it even be compatible with the stock rockers/springs. I can upgrade springs, and retainers. That doesn't bother me, i'd just have to postpone the cam install a while. Thanks for all the feedback. No, i'm not choosing a cam based on sound. I do NOT want to put down big bucks (for me) for something that doesnt sound the way i want it to though. Keep posting. Thanks for the help!

 

Don't take the wrong way, but what are you basing your cam choice on??

I mentionned it earlier, choose a cam for the car's purpose.

The early camaro is heavier than the IV Gen ones, so if it was me, I would choose a cam with more trq below the curve to help propulse that mass.
7000 rpm band on a stock 99 block is only a recipe for disaster. I would choose a cam with 1800>6500 band, something with no more than 230 duration on intake.
To give a few options:
TR224> 224/224, .563/.563 112+4
Comp 224/228
or Futral Motorsport FM5>FM-F5-112 FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 224"/228" .588"/.576" 112LSA - aggressive profile with a 1800-6600 RPM range, fair idle

The springs will have to be changed to at least Comp 918 (Beehive) or Patriot/PRC duals.(I would go with 918's)
Also hardened push rods are required.

All in all you are looking at 900>1200 $$ in parts + labor (unless you install yourself).

 

Awesome, that's just the type of advice i was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to help me out.
olly

 

 

Been looking at the GenIII page on the compcams website. I like the look of the XR275HR cam. Power range from 1800 - 6800, 222-224, .566, .568 lift with stock rocker, 112lsa. Either that, or one step down, the XR265, 1400~6700, 212-218 .558, .563. 115lsa.... The car will be used mostly on weekends, cruising, and occasionally the strip. In the back of my mind, i think the first is overkill...
comments?

 

The XE lobes are a little harder to tune and will make less power in the low end.
I'm partial to XE-R ramps when it comes to Comp.
TR ramps are proprietary and lay in between XE and XE-R and the Cam Motion of Futral
Are similar.
I would still go with the FM5

 

Okay. So i'm looking at Futral motorsports cam, Comp beehive springs (i've heard alot of good things about those) and some hardened, maybe chromoly pushrods. Should i look at titanium spring retainers, or is it a waste of money in that power range? Would some 1.8:1 rockers be a good investment instead? Neither? Thanks for the advice, keep it coming. I've been reading the whole "Internals" forum top to bottom, and it sounds like you know a hell of a lot about cams.
olly

 

I just looked at the Futral Motorsports page, and see that they offer comp's 918 springs, and hardened pushrods in a package. A cam is a simple install, i can easily do it myself. Looks like about $650 for the whole shabang. I think i might go with that setup. Sounds like it would be best for my use. I'll be running some longtubes (dont know what brand yet, definately not going with S&P's...), no emissions of course, porting my TB, running a good K&N filter setup, and definately an X or H pipe dual setup. Either 2.5" or 3".. Sounds like a good setup to me.
what do you think?
olly

 

The lighter the effective moving valvetrain mass the better for power and controling harmonics. While getting titanium retainers is not absolutely necessary, it is an added plus. If you can afford it, do it.
BTW the stock LS1 retainers will fit the 918's.
I would keep stock 1.7 ratio rockers unless you wish to invest in Crane variable lift rockers ~$650 (come with p-rods). You can always do that at a later date.
If the motor you're putting in has more than 40>50K on it, I would send the stock rockers to NASTY PERFORMANCE for a Harland Sharp rebuild kit installed with C-clips. That will give you better than new rockers with no possibility of spilled bearings (for which stock rockers sre known to do after 50K service) ~$260
Thank you for the compliment, I try my best to help my LS1 community, but there are many more knowledgeable members, such as JRP, C-straub, Patrick G. to name a few.
We all have one thing in common, we all believe the combo has to be well researched for part compatibility to maximise the said setup.
There is much more than just buying part A and Part B to make awsome power, and bigger isn't necessarily better.
You wont be dissapointed by any FM cams.

Cam swap should not be an issue with the motor out. Keep in mind you'll need:
1- Cam swap gasket and crank pulley bolt kit
2- New oil pump (ported not necessary)
3- New LS2 timing chain (stronger than LS1, it is the official LSx replacement chain for all LSx motors)
4- Fresh oil and filter
5- Assembly lube
6- Accurate trq wrench and various tools

This site will help you a lot in the process:
Http://www.ls1howto.com

As for headers, I know Stainless Works makes good quality retro fit headers for LSx motored 1st Gen bodies

Another mod you might want to look at is a LS6 intake (worth up to 15/20rwhp), you can find used ones from poeple that have swapped to aftermarket ones, or get it new for around $350

For induction (filter), you could fabricate a nice custom one with an open K&N element and some flexible tubing (source it at Home depot or similar) to get fresh air from in front of your radiator).

As for the wiring harness, Painless has the best kit to retro fit.

Take the time to read and search in the Hybrid/conversion forum with some poeple that have allready done the swap.

It will be a nice ride once finished, that is for sure.