BeeraddSS98

Heres the deal. I have a stock internal motor with 5.3 heads on it and a ultradyne 226/226 .591/.591 112 lsa cam. I was told that i should go bigger. When the motor was finally installed my buddy told me that the cam sounded alot bigger than the specs i was originally told. Does anyone know about ultradyne cams and what size should i go with to get the more power.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Have you dynoed or gone to the track to know what your results are? I've seen cars run low 11s, if not high 10s in good air with similar cams.

Whose lobes does Ultradyne use?

What are you trying to accomplish by switching cams?

BeeraddSS98

i basically want a different cam. If its only 226/226 than it should be changed. I did hear that ultradyne cam lobes are severly aggressive and that they put too much strain on the valve springs.

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

Ultradyne was bought by Bullet after it went into bankruptcy.

Whose lobes are they? Well Harold Brookshire, founder of Ultradyne, is one of the smartest cam designers living today. He has worked for many companies and designed quite a few of the "accelerated" lobe profiles that are in use today. He now resides at Lunati where he is in charge of camshaft development. Lunati's new line of VooDoo cams I'm sure is his creations.

Chris

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

I've got a buddy that used to run 11.4's @ 120mph with a 226 cam & GTP heads. Try it out before you bash it.

bad0211secws6

iTrader: (6)

fm14 112 gets my vote.

Blue Hawk

Why that?

What are your priorities?

The way I see it, someone else want you to change your cam to fit his priorities. What's yours?

If you want max possible peak power, then yes you should go with a bigger cam, but bigger cam also mean more stress on the valvetrain due to the increased lift, and by reading your comments, you seems to be already worried about that. A huge cam will also shine in the very high rpm's (6800+) and that means even more stress on the valvetrain.

Big peak numbers with huge cams also mean rough idle, surging and stalling issues (unless you go with a very good tune), emissions concerns (depend on your state's regulations), loss of low-end torque, etc...

Have you had your PCM tuned yet? If not, that could explain why your cam "sounds" bigger than it is. And don't forget that with accelerated lift, it should in fact sounds smaller because you got less overlap than a cam with the same durations and standard XE lobes.

Since you have an A4, a bigger converter will be a priority with a huge cam.

I only have a 224/.560/112+4 XE in my 382 stroker. I put 399rwhp/411rwtq to the ground through a M6, dual-friction clutch, steel driveshaft and 12 bolts rear. Is this cam too small for a stroker? Yes! Would I gain a bunch of HP by going much bigger? Absolutely! Does I want to change it? ABSOLUTELY NOT! Why? This cam idle like a dream, without surging or stalling, got me 29mpg on the highway, is very valvetrain friendly, and give me a shitload of torque in the low end (370rwtq at only 2500rpm). That's perfect for me for a daily driven street car.

On the other end, if I had to cam my 382 for a track-only car, you can be sure it would have had a much bigger cam (25x/6xx/110, no advance).

I choosed to go with a small cam because in my book a large, fat, flat torque curve is more important than a high, high-rpm, peaky hp number in a daily driver. Street manners and durability are more important than absolute best power for me.

But those are my priorities (maybe I'm getting old ).

Again, what are your priorities?

Peace!

Edit: typo

BlueSix

Going to a bigger cam will give you more peak power....but it will kill your area under the curve. The power gained will also not likely be worth the added cost of the swap/materials/re-tune.

BeeraddSS98

wow... so i can get into the 11's right now with this cam?

RollinSScamaro

iTrader: (25)

Anything from the F11-F14 from futral motorsports! guarantee you'll be happy! call them up or go to their site.. www.futralmotorsports.com

SSDoubleK

iTrader: (100)

Glad I'm running a Lunati Cam with that kind of great info.

BeeraddSS98

and why is that, that your lunati is better than my Ultradyne. And my priority is to be fast as possible..my gas mileage already blows dick so why not go all the way

and RollinSS thats dyno number is on ur car? I have the same heads with a similar setup..if thats the number that im gonna see when i put mycar on the dyno i will not be happy.

BudH

iTrader: (3)

That's on a Mustang dyno!

Your results may vary!

bad0211secws6

iTrader: (6)

exactly hes lookin at 400 on a dynojet!! mustang dyno's are for people who want the best tune and driveability.dynojets are for internet bragging rights.imo

by the way he had more hp on a dynojet with f11 only vs the mustang w/tea stage 2 5.3 heads.but a couple weeks after the heads were on he said bye bye to his trans

BeeraddSS98

damn i didnt even know there was a difference

BeeraddSS98

why are the 2 dyno's like that? and if the 2 are that far off than why is a factory horsepower rating that high?

BlueSix

Factory rating is at the flywheel, dyno's measure at the wheels....your drivetrain will eat up roughly 15% of your flywheel hp.

Properly set up the combo you have right now is good for low 11's, maybe high 10's as stated earlier.

Dyno numbers don't mean ****....dyno's are just a tuning tool. take it to the track and see how it runs.

JGKadell

iTrader: (4)

Dyno #'s don't always mean it will be fast. My car was running mid to low 12's and wasn't even hitting the 300HP mark on the dyno. It is a full weight car that had a vig 3,200, stock 3.23's, stock LD1 intake, Mac's, ORP, ASP, suspension, Lid and a good tune.

As for the 226 cams, I know the F4 from Futural is a proven performer, ask Jay Hauffpair. He went 10.9 on that cam with a lightened car.

BeeraddSS98

hmm...drag radials or a new cam.

BlueSix

ET Streets.