Did he say why the valves are they way they are

 

I would not pull the engine yet, you should be able to figure it out. Hang in there.

 

I would bet anything that the valves are just not closing. Even if the rings are completely shot you are going to have some compression if the valve train is even close to correct. Need to take a cold shower and just do it by the numbers. The cam is either right or wrong and it is a little concerning to "try it" 180 out. Dots either line up or they don't. I get compression out of the spark plug holes just turning it by hand to adjust valves. I have 30 yrs experience but cant get my adult kid to stop using a hammer and pliers. Not saying that is you..... but if it is all done by the numbers there is no guessing if it will work. Try.... leaving the rockers somewhat loose (after the cam timing issue is resolved). Crank the motor (DON'T START) and I bet miracles happen.

 

Laser, thanks for the tips, we did try to losten the rockers a little, and still nothing. This weekend I am going to pull it all apart again, take the front cover off and see exactly where the cam is. Thing is that I KNOW its in there right....all lined up etc.....but I am going to try that. The last thing is to pull the motor again. I am also going to try the oil on the pistons, and maybe that will do some good. As for the valves, well they are fine. Not a thing wrong with them. He went over the heads with me and Eddie standing there. Pulled the valves and checked them, put them in some sort of machine that spins them around, and they were straighter than my pecker He even checked the deck height on the heads, still stock, well stock size, since they are Absolute Stage II's. So hopefully I can figure something out this weekend, and have it fired up by Sunday...we'll see. I will keep you all posted on my progress. And thank you all for your help, I really appreciate it.

Oh, also, some else I talked to said that the rings still should be good, no matter how long the block sat, but I just may need to throw a little oil in there to get them to seal correctly. So we'll see how that goes. Still waiting for my studs to get here(hopefully tomorrow). Thanks again

Rob

 

when you tighten down the rockers, tighten to zero lash (where the pushrods dont spin) then turn another 1/2 turn. i think Ivy is gonna send out your heads as soon as she gets to the store to get wrap for them.
Nino

 

I still say its electrical Rob. I cant wait to you stumble across the fix either way though man. Cut out the guess work and use a damn Tech 2 to help see whats going on with all your sensors. If you say youve got spark and fuel, even with little to no compression that bitch will FIRE up.

Mike

Mike

 

Stock rockers are not adjustable.

I really doubt its electrical. I heard the engine spin. It was like the starter wasn't even turning the engine.

 

I told you about the rings before. I would not be so quick to pull the motor. Everything you need to access is above the block: heads, fuel, electrical, computer, etc. Why do you think that pulling the motor is going to solve your problem? You need to have everything hooked up to diagnose the problem. Why not try to scan the codes like someone here suggested? I think you need to find out why there is no compression, then take it from there. Find out what your valves are doing. May I suggest a shot of Hennessey or Jack Daniels?

 

Did you install the cam chain? J/K

 

Has anyone else ever met a 'pro wrench twister' with a toolbox full of 'shiny' chinese junk? After having read quite a few of roberts posts, I doubt very seriously that he could manage to keep a job in a 'quick lube' place...

The search button tells all...

 

Did he vaccum check them Rob or pressurize the ports in any way? I'm curious as to how electrical can keep you from building compression

 

I understand this issue has been pain in the *** and you just want to get it running at this point, but if the heads come back off again it is imperative that you take the time to make sure everything in there is super duper clean. I would limit the oil to the cylinder walls (to oil the rings) to using WD40 and vacuum (shop vac /small nozzle) it out where it puddles up in the corner a few times. Then a light wipe on the walls with 30 weight. Whether there might be dirt in there wont be in the back of your mind after that.
One less thing.........

 

Then if thats the case it would be electrical....The bendix on the starter may not be engaging...but he says he has fire....That means the starter is engaging and the crank sensor is triggered to give fire. on whatever cylinder it is he is checking for fire.

 

The problem with this is I dont think ROB has ever put a compression checking gauge to the car much less a leak down tester...So saying it has no compression we really dont ******* know. Im as frustrated as all with this car and ive never even seen it only taken Rob's calls to help him diagnose. I havent touched the car so i dont know if what Rob is saying is whats really going on. I didnt have the time to go look at the car when he had it here in Dallas visiting.

Mike

 

Could be worse. It could be my ol' lady trying to explain it with chick code. Partial sentences, A bunch of facial expressions and hand gestures. But then I would know to just smile and nod.........

 

I do the same thing and then when they ask you if you know what they are talking about I say no...HAHAHHAH

 

You say "no" and invite more talking? There is much to teach here.

 

Hey: Just trying to help you out I know how frustrating it can be. I think your head gaskets were not seating right and that is the reason you had no compression. You had a shop check the heads I assume they checked the surface to make sure they were straight. Before you do any installing check the block deck with a metal ruler and a feeler gauge. If you can see daylight through it the block deck will have to be machined for sure. Check the specs in the book for acceptable warpage. Clean the cylinder bolt holes out with compressed air. The head bolts you used the first time may not have seated all the way or they may have been to long? I would use new head gaskets. Borrow a degree wheel and make sure the cam is in right. As others have said bring each cylinder up to TDC with the valves closed and do a leakdown test before trying to start it up. Another stupid thong to check is the spark plugs. Are they the correct plugs for the motor and are they tightened down? Seen it before the wrong plugs in a motor and the compression just leaked out of the hole. Hope this helps? Bye

 

Thanks for your input Stick....as for the plugs, yes brand new. We had spark as well as fuel. The block is pretty much brand new. Came out of an 02 vette with under 5k on it. When I picked the block up, I took the stock heads off of it. And the factory gaskets. The guy who checked out my heads, looked them over thoroughly(sp). The first time I put it all back together, I used factory head bolts (this time I am using studs). I did double check the head gaskets when I pulled the heads again, and they were on right the first time. Again, thanks for your input. I will keep you all posted this weekend......

 

Mike, we did use a compression guage, and still nothing. I did it before I pulled the heads off again.....but believe me, I will be calling you this weekend