New motor in...have a few issues???
09-15-2005, 10:51 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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New motor in...have a few issues??? First off let me list what the new motor consists of: 98 LS1 5.7 block, Mahle forged pistons(rings gapped for a 200+ shot of nitrous), Callies rods, stock crank, TREX cam, Clevite bearings, ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, LS6 oil pump, ported heads(off 2000 model car), REV 2.02"-1.60" valves, Patriot dual springs/ titanium retainers/ Super Seven locks, bronze valve guides,(heads were not milled), stock head gaskets, ARP head studs, LS6 intake, ported TB, underdrive pully,...this is backed by a 6 speed tranny with a Moser 12 bolt. Now for the questions...when I start the car it has a hard time firing up, like it's not getting enough fuel? I have to crank it a couple of times and give it some gas. Sometimes it will just die at idle( around 500-700 RPM idle). It bucks like crazy and sounds nasty untill around 3000 RPM and then it just smoothes out? Is this just all in the tune? I haven't had it done yet. I'm not complaining...but I just wondered if this is the nature of the beast? I just fired it up let it warm up and cool down a couple of times and took it for a 1-2 mile drive never going above 3500 RPM and trying to keep it arond 2500 RPM for the most part. I did have the SES light flash 3-5 times and then it went back off? I plan on installing a racetronix fuel pump ASAP and some bigger injectors ( still using the stock 00' year 26#er's). What injector size do you recomend for my application...I will eventually put the NX wet kit on and spray a 200 shot on it. Tell me what I need to. Sorry for the lengthy post...I just want to do it all 100% correct the 1st time. I love how this car sounds with open headers and a big cam! Every gearhead in the community came running to the garadge when we fired it at 10:00 at night!!! 
09-16-2005, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SSBLUBYYOU
First off let me list what the new motor consists of: 98 LS1 5.7 block, Mahle forged pistons(rings gapped for a 200+ shot of nitrous), Callies rods, stock crank, TREX cam, Clevite bearings, ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, LS6 oil pump, ported heads(off 2000 model car), REV 2.02"-1.60" valves, Patriot dual springs/ titanium retainers/ Super Seven locks, bronze valve guides,(heads were not milled), stock head gaskets, ARP head studs, LS6 intake, ported TB, underdrive pully,...this is backed by a 6 speed tranny with a Moser 12 bolt. Now for the questions...when I start the car it has a hard time firing up, like it's not getting enough fuel? I have to crank it a couple of times and give it some gas. Sometimes it will just die at idle( around 500-700 RPM idle). It bucks like crazy and sounds nasty untill around 3000 RPM and then it just smoothes out? Is this just all in the tune? I haven't had it done yet. I'm not complaining...but I just wondered if this is the nature of the beast? I just fired it up let it warm up and cool down a couple of times and took it for a 1-2 mile drive never going above 3500 RPM and trying to keep it arond 2500 RPM for the most part. I did have the SES light flash 3-5 times and then it went back off? I plan on installing a racetronix fuel pump ASAP and some bigger injectors ( still using the stock 00' year 26#er's). What injector size do you recomend for my application...I will eventually put the NX wet kit on and spray a 200 shot on it. Tell me what I need to. Sorry for the lengthy post...I just want to do it all 100% correct the 1st time. I love how this car sounds with open headers and a big cam! Every gearhead in the community came running to the garadge when we fired it at 10:00 at night!!!
1) Get it tuned 2) Get it tuned 3) Good choice for fuel pump is the Racetronix with plug and play harness. 4) 42# SVO injectors. Just my 2cents worth. Good luck with the build.
09-17-2005, 01:59 AM
#5
1) Get it tuned 2) Get it tuned 3) Good choice for fuel pump is the Racetronix with plug and play harness. 4) 42# SVO injectors. Just my 2cents worth. Good luck with the build.
Get it tuned! My car would die right away when I added a cam, long tubes, and fuel injectors. Mostly because of the injectors causing it to run super rich though..
09-17-2005, 02:29 AM
#6
It is all in the tune. It isn't idling because it needs more air. I know people say don't drill the T/B BUT I have found mine didn't like the new set up until I did. How Big of a hole? Start off just barely bigger than you have. Also, you'll need to bump up the idle screw - I turned mine over - if you know our T/B you'll know what I mean. THE BIGGEST THING IS GET IT TUNED.
On the fuel pump. I agree good choice. Also, the SVO 30# will be fine. the 42# are a bit much. Again do this before you get it tuned or you be back to get it re-tuned.
Good luck with you new set-up. I sure hope the hell you spent some money on the suspension?
David
On the fuel pump. I agree good choice. Also, the SVO 30# will be fine. the 42# are a bit much. Again do this before you get it tuned or you be back to get it re-tuned.
Good luck with you new set-up. I sure hope the hell you spent some money on the suspension?
David
09-17-2005, 02:55 AM
#7
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Low end with a cam is all about tuning the VE table and the spark curve. My 233/239
was really hard to take off from a stop sign before tunig it. Now that I have the VE table tuned below 3000, it's just like you would expect, it drives good but you know that it has a cam.
was really hard to take off from a stop sign before tunig it. Now that I have the VE table tuned below 3000, it's just like you would expect, it drives good but you know that it has a cam.
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09-17-2005, 05:08 PM
#8
Ditto on the 42lb'ers being much bigger than necessary on your application. Those are meant for people running 40x's with heads/cam etc making in the high 400-500hp area. Do upgrade the fuel pump though, not sure you need a Racetronix setup though. Pretty much any upgraded fuel pump will do, around 255lph which most that I've seen are. And get that thing tuned, it WILL run like **** until you do.
09-17-2005, 11:11 PM
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now it wont even start...just cranks over. I smell raw fuel...maybe I fouled the plugs??? they are NGK TR55's. I had it running just a few minutes before though? Any ideas? By the way my suspention has been modified and it has the 12 bolt too, so no problems there!!!
09-18-2005, 06:41 AM
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Seems pretty normal. Here's my $0.02
DON'T drill the TB blade - there is a handy little set screw you can adjust to get the extra air you need. After you get the tune, you may find the TB hole needs to be a little bigger with along with the set screw adjustment. Until you get the tune, only adjust the screw. Take a look in the tuning section stickies on how to adjust it.
Double check that all the plugs/coil packs are conected. The first time i fired mine up, i forgot to reconnect the bank 2 coil pack
Make sure your MAF is clean.
Open headers sounds great, but will throw off the readings from your o2 sensors. This is especially bad at idle with a big cam. Your best bet is to put the rest of the exhaust back on.
I would also highly recommend that instead of spending the money on a dyno tune right now, that you save a few extra bucks and get your own tuning software. Most dyno tuners will get your car to idle (and not very well from my experience) and set up your WOT. They don't do much for your overall drivability. The link at the bottom of my sig is a step-by-step write up for tuning your car for overall drivability. Again, take a look at the tuning section stickies for help picking the right tuning package for you.
DON'T drill the TB blade - there is a handy little set screw you can adjust to get the extra air you need. After you get the tune, you may find the TB hole needs to be a little bigger with along with the set screw adjustment. Until you get the tune, only adjust the screw. Take a look in the tuning section stickies on how to adjust it.
Double check that all the plugs/coil packs are conected. The first time i fired mine up, i forgot to reconnect the bank 2 coil pack
Make sure your MAF is clean.
Open headers sounds great, but will throw off the readings from your o2 sensors. This is especially bad at idle with a big cam. Your best bet is to put the rest of the exhaust back on.
I would also highly recommend that instead of spending the money on a dyno tune right now, that you save a few extra bucks and get your own tuning software. Most dyno tuners will get your car to idle (and not very well from my experience) and set up your WOT. They don't do much for your overall drivability. The link at the bottom of my sig is a step-by-step write up for tuning your car for overall drivability. Again, take a look at the tuning section stickies for help picking the right tuning package for you.
09-18-2005, 07:24 AM
#11
I was testing 6 PCMs for my fieind over winter on my car just to see if they would fire on my setup they were all tuned for "street rods" with the same tune installed on all. One needed me to open the throttle body all of the way and crank the motor for 20 sec. just to start. a cuple more needed a few sec. to start and a few started asap. he had the worst one retuned and then I re checked it and it hadn't improved. I guess it is posssible to have a bad PCM to..... I had mods on my motor and it ran poor after the tune it ran a lot better. the thing always started fast with my computer but from the git go it had a base line tune. good luck
09-18-2005, 11:44 AM
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I don't know how I could adjust the trottle set screw since I don't have any tuning software to do that with? I just want to get it started again. Maybe EFI LIVE would be a good investment at this point for me too. I guess I'll clean off the MAF inside and put a new set of plugs in since I can smell raw fuel after cranking and pumping the gas. I'm sure I flooded it out.
09-18-2005, 11:46 AM
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This sure is a lot of trouble but I'm sure it wil pay off in the end....so I'll just be patient and with all of the help I get on here I'll get it right.
09-18-2005, 04:19 PM
#16
Well, I wouldn't keep fouling plugs since it had a hard time starting even before the plugs fouled. The best thing you can do is probably replace the plugs and don't start the car until you're driving to get it tuned. There is no use in running it until then.
09-18-2005, 04:42 PM
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If the car is running really rich then DO NOT DRIVE IT... You do not want to hurt the new motor because you didnt get the damn thing tuned.. If it is running really rich and you keep running it you are eventually gonna wash out the cylinders with all that gas and its gonna smoke and burn oil like a banshee..
I don't understand why everyone spends so much money on heads/cam swaps and new motors and then dont get a freakin tune. It doesnt make much sense to me. I'm sure there is someone on this board that lives close to you that can come by and do a baseline tune for you so that the car is driveable.
I don't understand why everyone spends so much money on heads/cam swaps and new motors and then dont get a freakin tune. It doesnt make much sense to me. I'm sure there is someone on this board that lives close to you that can come by and do a baseline tune for you so that the car is driveable.
09-18-2005, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
If the car is running really rich then DO NOT DRIVE IT... You do not want to hurt the new motor because you didnt get the damn thing tuned.. If it is running really rich and you keep running it you are eventually gonna wash out the cylinders with all that gas and its gonna smoke and burn oil like a banshee..
I don't understand why everyone spends so much money on heads/cam swaps and new motors and then dont get a freakin tune. It doesnt make much sense to me. I'm sure there is someone on this board that lives close to you that can come by and do a baseline tune for you so that the car is driveable.
I don't understand why everyone spends so much money on heads/cam swaps and new motors and then dont get a freakin tune. It doesnt make much sense to me. I'm sure there is someone on this board that lives close to you that can come by and do a baseline tune for you so that the car is driveable.