WTF!! Why were my head bolts so tight!?
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WTF!! Why were my head bolts so tight!?
My brand new 1/2" Snap On impact with 110psi (275 ft/lbs.) would not budge my head bolts.
The heads had ARP bolts holding them down, could not having moly lube have made the bolts seize in the heads? It got hot 1 time because it threw a belt, could that be it?
My dad is a real big guy, it took everything he had on a 2' break over to get them out.
Any ideas?
The heads had ARP bolts holding them down, could not having moly lube have made the bolts seize in the heads? It got hot 1 time because it threw a belt, could that be it?
My dad is a real big guy, it took everything he had on a 2' break over to get them out.
Any ideas?
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They're pretty darned tight, but I never have much trouble with my 2 foot breaker bar. I never use an impact on head bolts (going in OR coming out) since I prefer doing that by hand. If they were significantly difficult, check the threads to make sure there's no galling, indicating damaged threads.
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Another tip: Put a length of pipe or tubing on the end of the breaker bar handle to add some leverage. For removals only of course. Might save somebody a hernia.
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Originally Posted by Y2K SS
wait till you gotta torque them back on
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I would wonder if:
1. the threads were properly cleaned (chased) and blown out before installation of the ARP's.
2. the threads of the new bolts were lubricated with the ARP (or similar) lube
If ever, you don't have the assembly lube, go buy some anti-seize and use that. As a rule, I assemble everything with anti-seize at least. It doesn't take a lot of the stuff. Just brush it on the threads lightly but with complete coverage. Always mix up the anti-seize before use. For anything critical like head, main cap or rod cap bolts or studs/nuts, it's far better to use the assembly lube.
Steve
1. the threads were properly cleaned (chased) and blown out before installation of the ARP's.
2. the threads of the new bolts were lubricated with the ARP (or similar) lube
If ever, you don't have the assembly lube, go buy some anti-seize and use that. As a rule, I assemble everything with anti-seize at least. It doesn't take a lot of the stuff. Just brush it on the threads lightly but with complete coverage. Always mix up the anti-seize before use. For anything critical like head, main cap or rod cap bolts or studs/nuts, it's far better to use the assembly lube.
Steve
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Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
I would wonder if:
1. the threads were properly cleaned (chased) and blown out before installation of the ARP's.
2. the threads of the new bolts were lubricated with the ARP (or similar) lube
Steve
1. the threads were properly cleaned (chased) and blown out before installation of the ARP's.
2. the threads of the new bolts were lubricated with the ARP (or similar) lube
Steve
I would wonder the same thing sounds like they were hydrolocked to me
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Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
I would wonder if:
1. the threads were properly cleaned (chased) and blown out before installation of the ARP's.
2. the threads of the new bolts were lubricated with the ARP (or similar) lube
If ever, you don't have the assembly lube, go buy some anti-seize and use that. As a rule, I assemble everything with anti-seize at least. It doesn't take a lot of the stuff. Just brush it on the threads lightly but with complete coverage. Always mix up the anti-seize before use. For anything critical like head, main cap or rod cap bolts or studs/nuts, it's far better to use the assembly lube.
Steve
1. the threads were properly cleaned (chased) and blown out before installation of the ARP's.
2. the threads of the new bolts were lubricated with the ARP (or similar) lube
If ever, you don't have the assembly lube, go buy some anti-seize and use that. As a rule, I assemble everything with anti-seize at least. It doesn't take a lot of the stuff. Just brush it on the threads lightly but with complete coverage. Always mix up the anti-seize before use. For anything critical like head, main cap or rod cap bolts or studs/nuts, it's far better to use the assembly lube.
Steve
someone did a test on somewhere...forgot where i saw it...but the torque readings and clamping force was actually higher with ARP's lube compared to straight oil or never seaze.