f14 vs. f13
Oh ok, yea not trying to lecture you at all, just wanted to make sure you had some additional money set aside because it always costs more than you think its gonna cost when modding these cars, but it sounds like you have got it covered. $2000 sounds a little high. I know that dez racing does a cam install (which includes the cam, springs, pushrods, timing chain, dyno tune, etc) for around $1600, but thats including the cam, which they will custom grind for you, and everything else you ened to get it running right. Where are you located? You should see if there is a shop in your area from this board, they can usually give you a great packaged deal on a turn key cam install. I have been researching it for a while and im goin with the fm13 because it provides good power all around and it seems to be a favorite on the board. Also, I dont like to spin my engine much above 6400 rmps so it should fit into my desired powerband perfectly.
do yourself a favor, get an F13 or smaller cam. Your essentially staring down the barrel of a loaded gun if you try to spin that stock short block to 7k even once. Your parents aren't gonna be real happy when you tell them you threw the rod bolts out of the motor trying to get the cam into its power band, and my guess is your mod money will be cut off in a big hurry (if you parents have any sense)
Yea it should def be less than $2000, figure $400 for a dyno tune, $300-$400 for the cam, springs and retainers should be between $150-$250, pushrods are like $50, timing chain is like $100, oil pump is like $150, so i would say your lookin more at like $1350 in all. Look at the Group Purchase section, they have tons of deals on cam setups all the time.
For all you guys talking about spinning the f14 so high to get in the power band, NOT true. My f14 112lsa in an A4 cam only makes over 375rwhp by 5500rpms and peaks 399rwhp at 6300rpms. My shift point is set at 6500rpm. I'm not sure exactly what my shift extension is(kinda hard to look down when I floor it) but I know my SS4000 gets me in the power band fast and then I stay there through out my shifts never having to go past 6500rpms and never droping below 4000rpm. I never understood what good low end tq is. I guess thats because once I floor it I never see anything under 4000rpms. But the f14 does make over 350rwtq at 3500rpms and peaks at 366rwtq at 5300rpm. The peak tq seems low but its because I'm a A4 with a large converter. Anyway, thats my experience with the f14.
**** i spent 3500 bucks on heads cam and all supporting mods, like EVERY supporting mod leaving out every bolt on except for ls6 intake cause that was the only thing i didnt have when i started. that also includes hp tuners and suspension mods. if i were you i would wait and find some stuff on sale, i saved tons of money just taking my time.
I went with the F14, could not be happier. Partially tuned I put down 382 rwhp, and 361 rwtq without the ls6 intake. Havn't redyno'd yet with the ls6 intake, but I'm guessing somewhere around the 400 mark.
Those shorties are going to eat up gobs of power man. Save, save, save. College doesn't last forever.
You will be happy, whichever cam you go with. If you plan on future modding, which it sounds like you do, then I'd go with the F14.
$2000 sound about right to me. if you add up all the little parts and tune.
And get the crane "vinci" tool for your valve spring swap, you won't regret it.
Those shorties are going to eat up gobs of power man. Save, save, save. College doesn't last forever.
You will be happy, whichever cam you go with. If you plan on future modding, which it sounds like you do, then I'd go with the F14.
$2000 sound about right to me. if you add up all the little parts and tune.
And get the crane "vinci" tool for your valve spring swap, you won't regret it.
when i priced it all out, parts are going to be about $1,250 from FMS. That includes cam, dual valvesprings, retainers, compcam lifters, all the bolts and gaskets, ported ls6 oil pump, and rollmaster timing chain. Now I will also prob. get a crank pulley since its gonna be taken off anyway. Which will add like $300 more for the hormonic balancer crank pulley, bolt kit, accesory belt pulley, and belt for AC pulley.
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So I can get myself the F14 
Dude if your gonna have to buy the lifters, oil pump, timing chain & tune, then you need to spend an extra $400 & get at least some Armor coated Pacesetters. Your already gonna be out the money for the other parts anyway. Or just get your LT's now & work to put the $400 back in the bank until christmas when this all goes down. If you dont get the supporting mods now you will NOT be happy with the performance gains you get for all the other money & time your gonna spend on the cam, install & tune. Plus just look at it logically, why put a cam in just to choke it out?? Kinda makes it not worth doing till it can be done right. One important thing you need to learn is patience. You could always get you cam & all the goodies & not install it until you get your LT's. That would be a good idea also.
patience is key!! There is an order you should do it in unless your getting a zo6 cam or something very very small, then you dont need to get one till you have the right intake and exhaust setup. Your just throwing money away if you stay on the route your on.
Nino
Nino
well really im pretty happy with the performance it has now, and i know it sounds gay, but i really want the cam for the sound mainly. The extra power is just anouther plus. I know I wont gain much HP with the cam w/out headers, but this way when i get headers ill be realllly happy with them. Also how is this just throwing money away? The only thing that could be considered throwing money away with is on the tune, id have to spend this money sometime and get the stuff anyway, its jsut when i spend the money. Yes i may not see a lot of gain now, but when I get headers the gain will be there then. Also with the tune, even if i got headers id still get it tuned, so i would be spending money to tune it either way.
yeah, but your spending it on a tune twice. say you get a retune, you still have to pay for dyno time. Listen to the board! We're running strong cars with good numbers for a reason 
but to each his own and if you wanna choke your motor, then its on you...we're just trying to help.
Nino
but to each his own and if you wanna choke your motor, then its on you...we're just trying to help.Nino
If you want it for sound then get the f14 on 112. The long tubes are going to increase the sound a lot too. If you decide to get the cam first its going to suck when people want to race because your car sounds cammed and then they blow you away because your not making the power a cammed car should. Its your choice but long tubes first is the right choice.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 472
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From: Atlanta, GA
I wasn't sure exactly on which one to get, and decided with the F13. The F14 had just been released back then, not many ppl had it at all, little feedback... Mine is a daily driver (supposed to be at least, having some cooling issues right now) and I have no problems with it whatsoever when it comes to driveability, even in morning Atlanta traffic which is f*n horrible.
Made plenty of peak power too
Made plenty of peak power too
I think you will like the sound of your car as much or even more with some LT's, off road y-pipe, and a nice catback (if you dont already have one I forget your mods). Also, if you get LT's you dont need a tune right away. My car runs perfectly with my headers and y-pipe with gutted cats and sounds amazing. Also, if you doing it for sound I believe the lower the lsa the choppier the idle and the bigger the lope will be? So the 112 lsa would better suit you in that department, if i have it backwards (the higher the lsa the rougher the idle) please feel free to correct me.
I have a question about the F13 and F14. Lets say you get the F13 with an ICL of 112, and the F14 with an ICL of 110 will they peak similiar? Or do you think the F13 will still peak lower?
I was looking around online for headers and TSP has coated pacesetters with Y pipe onsale for $500, so i think i will buy those. Then I just wont get a pulley, and it will take a little longer for me to get the cam stuff, but i can get it all put on a tuned at the same time. Does that sound like a better plan, if i dont get the pulley and sell the shortys it will end up only costing like $100-$200 more to get the headers.
Last edited by brandon1221; Sep 22, 2005 at 07:03 PM.