high revs, shorter engine life?
high revs, shorter engine life? I think my cam makes power up to 6600, but I have to admit I am a little nervous revving past 6000. Will revving this high decrease the life of my engine, hurt bearings, get enough oil with stock pump etc...any input is appreciated.
In the short term, shouldnt have a problem going to 6600. Many people turn 6800 - 7000 on the stock bottom end with no problems at all, I am doing it on a 115k mile motor and have been doing it for 20-25k miles now.
Last edited by LSUxBlake; Oct 10, 2005 at 03:52 PM.
Anything over 6600 I would get some Ktech rod bolts, but up until there you shouldn't have a problem as long as you run good oil. 
FWIW mine regularly sees the 6400 limiter. Pretty much at least once everytime I drive it. I really need a shiftlight
FWIW mine regularly sees the 6400 limiter. Pretty much at least once everytime I drive it. I really need a shiftlight
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From: silver Spring MD
hi 00z28SS,
I think your statement summarizes it; yes high revs will hurt it over the long run. Oil Pressure is key, as a general rule, 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM - that will keep you some what on the safe side.
Bill
I think your statement summarizes it; yes high revs will hurt it over the long run. Oil Pressure is key, as a general rule, 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM - that will keep you some what on the safe side.
Bill
The higher you rev an engine on a stock bottom end the increased chance you have of something malfunctioning since you are putting more stress on the egine parts which werent made to consistently rev to 6600+ rpms. You can get away with reving the engine to 6600 rpm's, it just probably wont last as long. In addition, you will be putting more stress on the valvetrain components, so they will need to be replaced more often. Id say not to rev to 6600+ rpms too frequently and you should be fine. Try to stay around 6200 max though most of the time. Also, if the cam you are using is the same as the one in your sig (comp 224) then it probably makes most of its power prior to reaching 6600 rpms and just because it says the cams powerband goes up to 6600 rpms that doesnt mean you ahve to rev it that high to take advantage of its power, its going to have plenty of useable power prior to 6600 rpms.
Originally Posted by Bill's 02 Z-28 SS
hi 00z28SS,
I think your statement summarizes it; yes high revs will hurt it over the long run. Oil Pressure is key, as a general rule, 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM - that will keep you some what on the safe side.
Bill
I think your statement summarizes it; yes high revs will hurt it over the long run. Oil Pressure is key, as a general rule, 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM - that will keep you some what on the safe side.
Bill
One way to ensure oil pressure should the pump not keep up or the oil pick up is lost for some reason (oval track racing, steep hill....etc.), is to install a pre-oiler. Not only will the pre-oiler build oil pressure prior to start-up (reducing start-up engine wear), but, it will maintain oil pressure for short periods in the event that pump pressure is reduced or lost.
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
The more you rev any engine, the shorter it's life. More revs=more heat and friction=shorter life.
It also has a lot to do with cyclic loading of the metals used in your internals. Tiny cracks in the metal during the formation of the piston, rod, etc. grow depending on the differences in load and how many times it is loaded. Every time your motor changes load those tiny cracks grow a teeny bit more until they hit their limits and the metal breaks completely.
The friction has more to do with the loss of compression then it has to do with your motor blowing.
Adam
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
One way to ensure oil pressure should the pump not keep up or the oil pick up is lost for some reason (oval track racing, steep hill....etc.), is to install a pre-oiler. Not only will the pre-oiler build oil pressure prior to start-up (reducing start-up engine wear), but, it will maintain oil pressure for short periods in the event that pump pressure is reduced or lost.
Originally Posted by fastcarfreak
It also has a lot to do with cyclic loading of the metals used in your internals. Tiny cracks in the metal during the formation of the piston, rod, etc. grow depending on the differences in load and how many times it is loaded. Every time your motor changes load those tiny cracks grow a teeny bit more until they hit their limits and the metal breaks completely.
The friction has more to do with the loss of compression then it has to do with your motor blowing.
Adam
The friction has more to do with the loss of compression then it has to do with your motor blowing.
Adam
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
I didn't say anything about reving causing your engine to blow. The original question asked if high rev's shorten engine life....and my answer was yes, it does. Friction and heat cause ANY mechanical part to wear.
Obviously by shorter engine life it has most to do with wear to the cylinder walls and the sides of the pistons. Your statement would be like a person dying a few years earlier in life (say 70 years old rather then 80 years old) then he would have otherwise lived had he not smoked cigerettes (say for example), and my statement would be like a 50 year old guy having a heart attack from eating too much junk food rather then living to the age of 80.
Both shorten the life of the person, but my example would be considered catastrophic.
My example of engine failure is from catastophic failure, and yours is from an increase in wear on the motor.
I hope i explained that correctly, it sounds correct in my mind. lol
Adam
Originally Posted by 98Z28MASS
This may be a retarded question but what is a pre-oiler (besides the obvious fact that it oils previous to start-up) and where do you get one? Thanks!
A pre-oiler is a hydraulic accumulator. It fills with pressurized oil when the motor is running. A solenoid determines when the accumulator valve is open or closed. Solenoid is open with key on & closed with key off. This is how it gets filled with oil. Once filled, it works like this; before starting the motor, you turn the key to on (not start) for 10 seconds or so & the accumulator solenoid will fill the oil galleys (galleries) & pre-lubricate the bearings. Then start the pre-lubed engine. As mentioned, also good to maintain pressure under any short term pump related pressure loss & to pre-lubricate stored cars after not being started for a while.
Where to buy? I don't remember where I bought mine; pretty sad huh? Do a web search for pre-oiler or search on the Bob is the oil guy site & you'll find a couple of different brands. Good-luck.
Edit: Just looked up some sources in response to a PM. Auto engine lube (bladderless accumulator) or Accusump (w/bladder accumulator).
Last edited by LS1-450; Oct 10, 2005 at 03:04 PM. Reason: edit for manufacturer information
Originally Posted by LS1-450
A pre-oiler is a hydraulic accumulator. It fills with pressurized oil when the motor is running. A solenoid determines when the accumulator valve is open or closed. Solenoid is open with key on & closed with key off. This is how it gets filled with oil. Once filled, it works like this; before starting the motor, you turn the key to on (not start) for 10 seconds or so & the accumulator solenoid will fill the oil galleys (galleries) & pre-lubricate the bearings. Then start the pre-lubed engine. As mentioned, also good to maintain pressure under any short term pump related pressure loss & to pre-lubricate stored cars after not being started for a while.
Where to buy? I don't remember where I bought mine; pretty sad huh? Do a web search for pre-oiler or search on the Bob is the oil guy site & you'll find a couple of different brands. Good-luck.
Edit: Just looked up some sources in response to a PM. Auto engine lube (bladderless accumulator) or Accusump (w/bladder accumulator).
Where to buy? I don't remember where I bought mine; pretty sad huh? Do a web search for pre-oiler or search on the Bob is the oil guy site & you'll find a couple of different brands. Good-luck.
Edit: Just looked up some sources in response to a PM. Auto engine lube (bladderless accumulator) or Accusump (w/bladder accumulator).
Someone from I believe A&A was talking about getting a GP together a month or two ago. I dont know what ever happened. I'm thinking of putting one in my new setup.
