Begun the Head/Cam swap......a few pics
10-12-2005 | 01:47 PM
#21
Originally Posted by 89ws6formula50
its all inferred(sp?)
10-12-2005 | 01:52 PM
#22
Originally Posted by 777
Sorry you took it that way...I, in no way, meant it to be that way. I'm not that kind of person. Back on topic, and good luck with the rest of the install.
I will be putting LS6 heads and a cam in my Z28 when I come back from deployment. I will do the magnet thing on that one, even IF none of these lifters fall. We are hoping to have this running by Sunday.....just taking my sweet *** time to TRY not to mess anything up.
ALTHOUGH, I do have one reassmbly question, when tq ing the bolts to the 30* or whatever that number is, how exactly is that done? How do you measure the number of * degrees?
10-12-2005 | 01:56 PM
#23
Originally Posted by LS1Howto
If using OEM GM headbolts:
Now, grab a socket wrench and lightly turn the bolts until they stop. Now for the very precise part. You need to get your torque wrench out now and fit it with a 3" extension and a 15mm socket.
Using the sequence illustrated above, torque all 10 15mm bolts to 22lb-ft.
OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)
Ok, now for a GREAT tip from Scott99Z. Take a felt tip marker and draw a horizontal line on the head of each bolt. This is very important.
Now, using the sequence illustrated above, turn all 10 15mm bolts an additional 90 degrees using a large socket wrench and a lot of muscle. Try to get as close to 90 degrees as possible...you may have to do multiple turns of 30 degrees or 2 turns of 45 degrees. When done all the lines on the bolt heads should be totally vertical.
Next, again using the sequence above, turn bolts 1 through 8 another 90 degrees. This will take an immense amount of effort...if you have a buddy helping both of you should turn the wrench simultaniously. These 8 bolts will now all have horizontal lines on them
Using the sequence above, turn bolts 9 and 10 an additional 50 degrees. Again, this will take a lot of effort. 50 degrees should result in a diagonal line on the bolts
Finally, using the sequence above, torque bolts 11 through 15 to 22 lb-ft.
If using ARP headbolts:
Apply the moly lube that came with the ARP bolts to the threads, as well as under the head of the bolt and both sides of the washer. Only a light coating is needed. If you don't have the included moly lube, put some motor oil on the threads.
Torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.
OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)
Do a second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
Insert all 16 pushrods (7.400" is probably needed unless you have highly milled heads or a small cam, in which 7.350" might be needed), place pedestal back on the head, apply locktite to all the rocker center bolts and reinstall all the rockers. Torque the rockers to 22lbft.
Now, using your 24mm socket wrench, turn the motor over by hand (should be difficult as you are now building compression) and make sure the motor turns over by hand a full 720 degrees, then turn it another 360 (doesnt have to be exact or anything).
Go over all the rockers again with your wrench just to make sure they are all at 22-24'ish lbft.
Now, grab a socket wrench and lightly turn the bolts until they stop. Now for the very precise part. You need to get your torque wrench out now and fit it with a 3" extension and a 15mm socket.
Using the sequence illustrated above, torque all 10 15mm bolts to 22lb-ft.
OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)
Ok, now for a GREAT tip from Scott99Z. Take a felt tip marker and draw a horizontal line on the head of each bolt. This is very important.
Now, using the sequence illustrated above, turn all 10 15mm bolts an additional 90 degrees using a large socket wrench and a lot of muscle. Try to get as close to 90 degrees as possible...you may have to do multiple turns of 30 degrees or 2 turns of 45 degrees. When done all the lines on the bolt heads should be totally vertical.
Next, again using the sequence above, turn bolts 1 through 8 another 90 degrees. This will take an immense amount of effort...if you have a buddy helping both of you should turn the wrench simultaniously. These 8 bolts will now all have horizontal lines on them
Using the sequence above, turn bolts 9 and 10 an additional 50 degrees. Again, this will take a lot of effort. 50 degrees should result in a diagonal line on the bolts
Finally, using the sequence above, torque bolts 11 through 15 to 22 lb-ft.
If using ARP headbolts:
Apply the moly lube that came with the ARP bolts to the threads, as well as under the head of the bolt and both sides of the washer. Only a light coating is needed. If you don't have the included moly lube, put some motor oil on the threads.
Torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.
OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)
Do a second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
Insert all 16 pushrods (7.400" is probably needed unless you have highly milled heads or a small cam, in which 7.350" might be needed), place pedestal back on the head, apply locktite to all the rocker center bolts and reinstall all the rockers. Torque the rockers to 22lbft.
Now, using your 24mm socket wrench, turn the motor over by hand (should be difficult as you are now building compression) and make sure the motor turns over by hand a full 720 degrees, then turn it another 360 (doesnt have to be exact or anything).
Go over all the rockers again with your wrench just to make sure they are all at 22-24'ish lbft.
Last edited by 777; 10-12-2005 at 02:04 PM.
10-12-2005 | 02:02 PM
#24
we are using stock GM bolts, I read that stuff on LS1howto, however, I just want to verify that when they say mark the bolt with the line, turn it 90*, we are using a 360* circle??? so basically it would go to the E from N if the circle was a compass??? Does that make sense??
Thanks
This being the only part Im unclear on
I havent had the chance to do heads on anythign with this type of tq seq recently. Last time was a Mercury about 4 years ago.
Thanks
This being the only part Im unclear on
I havent had the chance to do heads on anythign with this type of tq seq recently. Last time was a Mercury about 4 years ago.
10-12-2005 | 02:08 PM
#26
Originally Posted by 89ws6formula50
we are using stock GM bolts, I read that stuff on LS1howto, however, I just want to verify that when they say mark the bolt with the line, turn it 90*, we are using a 360* circle??? so basically it would go to the E from N if the circle was a compass??? Does that make sense??
Thanks
This being the only part Im unclear on
I havent had the chance to do heads on anythign with this type of tq seq recently. Last time was a Mercury about 4 years ago.
Thanks
This being the only part Im unclear on
I havent had the chance to do heads on anythign with this type of tq seq recently. Last time was a Mercury about 4 years ago.
