I've got a question? How come you're going to be going for a 9"?! If I were you, I would go for the 12 bolt, because it will easily hold the power you'll be running, plus, it has less rotating mass which = less drivetrain loss, also the 12 bolt is much more streetable because the posi has carriers on both side, whilst the 9" only has one. And if you were to check out the Group Purchase sections in the forums, you'll see that some places are running AMAZING deals on the 12 bolts....which use all factory ABS and TCS if you have them, which is a nice thing, including your brakes ect.... So, if you're going to go for a new rear, I'd go for the 12 bolt instead of the 9" (unless you plan on running 1000+ hp to the back) And for gears, 4.10 would be the highest you should go, even if you weren't running on the juice.

I also agree with shantin...money is a concern, so don't be going to track the and blow your **** out. If you get an eaton or auburn posi, those things will last against a decent amount of power (no more than 500hp) even in your 10 bolt. Plus you can fortify your 10bolt as well if you end up running more power. Basically what I'm sayin, is spend less money on the parts that "might" break, and just be safe by not dumping and all that crap. You do that, thats when you BLOW stuff to hell. Do the cam, the heads, the headers, maybe an intake, work on the suspension ect ect ect, and once your torsion starts to break, spend the 300 bucks and throw a auburn in there, your clutch takes a ****?... get a spec stage 3 (380dollars that holds 680hp) and RESURFACE your flywheel to save you another 300 dollars. Just take your time, and go in stride with what your car dishes out to ya.

Regards,
Haans

 

I would do the clutch first then rear and rear suspension. Then start making more power. I see so many of these 400+ HP Dyno queens get thier *** kicked by a 350HP car at the track. If you can't get power to the ground it is just wasted. Good luck.

 

cool, thanks for the advice guys! i appreciate it

 

People sure do like to tell you how, when, and what kind of a career you should have before you spend your money. Your first post said you wanted to spank a new Vette and have a draw dropping car at the shows which is not a hard feat. You can save so much money installing the parts yourself and a TSP heads and cam package would get you what you want. With bolt ons and some TSP heads, cam, and tune, you can put down more than 400 rwhp and pull a new vette on the highway. You don't sound like a dude who goes to the track alot so I wouldn't worry about the drivetrain just yet. People bring up TRMN8R, whelp, he's on the stock rear (and clutch) and has chose to go with some of the less expensive parts and also puts down killer power. Hell, he can spank a Ford GT! I know some very fast F-Bodies still on the stock rear. One in particular a 98 procharged and sprayed WS6 m6, he also runs Mickey Thompsons and is still on the stock rear. WOT runs from a roll aren't that bad on the rear. Besides, heads and cam power really don't come on strong until later in the RPM range and you don't drive in it all the time. The power will be there when you want it. Don't let people tell you what you should and shouldn't do and when you should or shouldn't do it. It's your money, your car, your goals so get what you want. Your goal isn't that far out of reach and it's really similar to what I'm after and will have.