T-Rex
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 319
Likes: 1
From: North Carolina
T-Rex I believe I have made up my mind and am going to go with the T-Rex cam for a winter project. I know retainers, rods, and springs are a must. TR also suggests different rockers than the 1.8's I also have stock heads.
Few questions here.
1) Which type of rockers do you guys suggest? 1.7 1.6? or am I wayyyy off?
2) Will any head work be necessary?
3) What if, I didn't upgrage my rear end gears right away?
Need to get my ducks in a row, and all parts necessary before I shove off on this journey.
Few questions here.
1) Which type of rockers do you guys suggest? 1.7 1.6? or am I wayyyy off?
2) Will any head work be necessary?
3) What if, I didn't upgrage my rear end gears right away?
Need to get my ducks in a row, and all parts necessary before I shove off on this journey.
10 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Retainers, springs, and pushrods are a must. If you're running stock heads you will be fine, our cars come with 1.7's stock so don't worry about that.
As for the gears, I drove my friends car with a T-Rex with 3.42's in it and it was kind of a pain, but it's not nessecary. He still runs the 3.42's and he's been running them for 3 months. But depending on what you call "drivable" is all up to you.
As for the gears, I drove my friends car with a T-Rex with 3.42's in it and it was kind of a pain, but it's not nessecary. He still runs the 3.42's and he's been running them for 3 months. But depending on what you call "drivable" is all up to you.
I was assuming that this is an M6 because of your ripper shifter in sig.
1.) I run 3.42's with my cam and they are almost same specs as T-rex. It is like taking off in second gear though (nothing off the line unless you dump it at 3000), so you might want to check into the 3.73 - 4.10 arena.
2.) DO NOT get your heads milled. It will clear just fine on un-modified heads.
And I don't know, but am almost 95% sure that you would be running into some sort of clearance issues with anything bigger than a 1.7 rocker on stock heads.
3.) It might be a good idea (if not when you do the head swap) to possibly get some rod bolts if you plan on getting the full use out of this cam. But that is if you planned on pulling the motor and un-buttoning the bottom end.
4.) But since you are doing the T-Rex you might want to check into a great set of heads for the future that will compliment it nicely.
5.) Most people don't even mess with it in most cases, but I did it on mine just because I was already staring the parts in the face and or taking them off completely. Get an LS6 or port and blueprinted oil pump and a timing chain (double roller is a PITA by the way). I think that you can pick those up for around $70 and $130 from SDPC or Thunder if you are trying to keep all one manufacturer. I know several people that went the LS2 timing set route and it seems to work out just fine. But stick with the stock one if you feel that it will be adequate for the journey.
5.) Tune, Tune, Tune!!!
6.) Oh, and I almost forgot...Make sure you have at least an LS6 intake.
1.) I run 3.42's with my cam and they are almost same specs as T-rex. It is like taking off in second gear though (nothing off the line unless you dump it at 3000), so you might want to check into the 3.73 - 4.10 arena.
2.) DO NOT get your heads milled. It will clear just fine on un-modified heads.
And I don't know, but am almost 95% sure that you would be running into some sort of clearance issues with anything bigger than a 1.7 rocker on stock heads.
3.) It might be a good idea (if not when you do the head swap) to possibly get some rod bolts if you plan on getting the full use out of this cam. But that is if you planned on pulling the motor and un-buttoning the bottom end.
4.) But since you are doing the T-Rex you might want to check into a great set of heads for the future that will compliment it nicely.
5.) Most people don't even mess with it in most cases, but I did it on mine just because I was already staring the parts in the face and or taking them off completely. Get an LS6 or port and blueprinted oil pump and a timing chain (double roller is a PITA by the way). I think that you can pick those up for around $70 and $130 from SDPC or Thunder if you are trying to keep all one manufacturer. I know several people that went the LS2 timing set route and it seems to work out just fine. But stick with the stock one if you feel that it will be adequate for the journey.
5.) Tune, Tune, Tune!!!
6.) Oh, and I almost forgot...Make sure you have at least an LS6 intake.
Last edited by orangeapeel; Oct 24, 2005 at 04:22 AM.
Probably depends on how much decking there is and how thick gaskets are. but 1.7's are fine anyway unless you want the 1.8's for a really mild cam like a B1 or maybe just the stock cam.
Would not recommend using anything other than 1.7's. anything bigger and as per thunderracing you would cause valve float even with no clearance issues. this would be because of the fast ramp rate( rate of valve opening) this would be on the Trex v2 of course
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
You may want to consider the thunder racing cam package. Thats what I got. It comes with everything you need. You may want to consider a
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=51
You may want to consider getting a new timing chain depending on how many miles you have on your car.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=222
You will also need a tune.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=51
You may want to consider getting a new timing chain depending on how many miles you have on your car.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=222
You will also need a tune.
