just recieved the TSP MS3 today and waiting to install it tomorrow morning
and i want to degree it on a fastway so where should i put the degree pointer ,, i want it to be for a street racing with mid/high rpm range i don`t care for the low rpm range
just to let you know ,, i have a cloyes timing chain ,, hex-a-just
thanks

 

You dont need to be screwing around with a cam that big. You need to put it straight up. It already has advance ground into it.

 

I say you should manually retard 6* and so if it will pull to 8K rpms, j/k. As full-force said, I would install straight up.

Brandon

 

thanks guys but what i want is the maximum power with that camshaft to feel the 400+ RWHP with stock heads

fahad

 

any other comments??

 

my 98 put down 380rwhp w/ the MS3........i havent seen anyone break 400rwhp w/ a MS3 and a 98 motor, that is cam only w/ bolt ons. I'm sure it can be done but its gonna take a really good tune and a strong factory car. Good luck with everything, and i hope you like this cam as much as i do.

 

That's a big damn lift cam for stock cubes, but you already bought it so no use in beating a dead horse. One more vote for installing straight up. No way you wanna advance that cam --> Hello broken valves.

 

should i retard it??

 

with the TR230/236 , comp single spring and mac midlength headers i runned 385 now the car will get a longtube , patriot gold spring kit and the 603/609
do u think i`ll get the same numbers?? as what u have said?
thanks all
fahad

 

well.....looks like you will be the first i've seen to do it. i def. think you will get another 15hp out of the MS3. congrats.......on making me jealous

 

thanks dude but i wanna ask u,, have u tried to dyno your car with the factory wheels? or with the ZO6 18*18
my cars is running the 385 with c5 wheels 18*17 even with dirty air filter i have to clean it before the next tune

 

OK. I can see you like to live on the edge. Do what you want. If you retard it you gonna tear something all to hell. Advancing it will probably give you more clearance not less like was mentioned. The valve that gets closest is the exhaust valve because its actually opening while the piston is coming up and stays open as the piston reaches TDC so it can get all of the exhaust out.

That cam is gonna pull like a raped ape in the high rpms'. Most of these cams from the sponsors are already ground in ways that compliment the LS1. The MS3 is a steetable cam but its still a race max effort cam. The guess work has been taken out for you. Im leaning heavily toward this cam and I race my car a good bit. Im not even thinking the thoughts that you are about advancing or retarding it.

 

i've only dynoed it w/ the 18's

 

BTW the cam pulls like a bitch up top, have fun w/ it

 

dude what if installed the cam straight in and set it on zero to zero while the cam has a more ground advance??? what i want is a real degree for that cam
i hope u understand what is my thoughts

 

I guess I dont underatand.

What I do understand is that degreeing a cam is not advancing or retading it. It just makes sure the cam is ground right and installed right.

If you want to degree it then degree it. All Im saying is that the cam has been ground to clear the pistons when its installed straight up or on 0 as you put it.

 

no u got me right .. thats what i want ,, so i should drop the degree issue from my mind and install it correctly zero to zero
thanks dude

 

yes amigo

 

So if the cam is installed "Straight up", degreeing is not neccessary?

 

My understanding of it was you degree your cam for the sole purpose of making sure it's the right cam you ordered. That the CNC machine didnt fudge it up, or whoever sold it to you used didnt jip you.