Hello everyone.... as you all know, when you get passed your bolt on stage you need to decide which direction you want to take in modding. Well i am getting ready to finish up my bolt ons here. I am getting some LT's and a cutout for my borla, i know Borla and LTs sounds bad, why im getting a cutout. I wanted true duals but with me being lowered 2", prolly not such a good idea. I am also going to order a fuddle 3600 2.5 str and making pick up a used ls6 intake and ported TB. Now after months of questions and research, i think my ultimate choice is to go down the FI route and get a turbo set up for about 6-8 psi for street use. Well that wont be for a year or so due to funds. I want to start modding but am really unsure of a route to take. After my bolt ons do you think i should jsut get a big cam like the MS3 which i have been looking at and same for some heads? Or jsut get a smaller cam and do some suspension work or what? Only problem is if i get a cam like this now, i cant run it with FI so its kind of a waste if i go that route since it needs a FI friendly cam and what not. I really have no idea where to go. I decided building a 402 or any motor is too much money to get going as you cant run it until its finished and a finished motor is about 10-15 grand. I can get a turbo set up for about 7 grand to run 6-8 psi on stock motor and save to build my bottom end. If i dont go turbo i DO NOT want to go spray. I dont know of a fill palce by me and the price of filling isnt cheap and i know i couldnt preserve it so it would be a major money pit for me. What do you think i should do? Car is 99% Daily Driver street car. It may see the track once in a while when i get it all finished and know my drivetrain is up to it so i dont break. I am pretty sure my 10 bolt will survive on street and may have to build the 4l60-e soon. Input please and what you think i should do as mod direction....... internal engine, suspension, save for turbo.....

 

P-1SC Procharger 7psi
No increased heat (like turbo)
Self lubricating
Intercooled
Has upgrade capabilities (D1-SC)
Can be taken off easily.
3 year manufacturer warranty

 

My brother's 95 Formula, which is bought new and only has 5000 miles on it, still has an internally stock engine. he put an ATI ProCharger P-1SC on it, and a complete Hooker header/exhaust system. The 4L60E with a 3500 Yank converter broke on the 1st pass down the track. He replaced the tranny with a Rossler turbo 400, and used a Neal Chance 4000 stall converter. A Moser 12 bolt with 4:30 gears was installed, and the suspension was fully done. BMR K Member, BMR upper/lower a arms, Spohn torque arm, Spohn lower control arms, etc. The car is only making 367 rwhp on my Mustang Chassis Dyno, yet it runs consistant 11.32 at 118 mph runs. We weighed his car the other day and it weighed 3508 lbs. This Winter my brother is going to remove the air conditioning, and install a manual steering rack, and possibly the lighter brakes and wheels. The goal is to get it into the 10's for now with the stock engine. This car can be seen in the project car section of my website.

I would suggest you start with the chassis on your car, as it has to be done anyway to utilize the power that you already are making. Bob

 

Hey exotic... Since i will be on stock motor and only about 8psi, would you suggest me the P1SC or D1SC? Whats the price installed for a P1SC unit for 8 psi like you gave mne for the D1, thanks!

 

any one else have any suggestions?

 

thunder racing.com has a turbo for about $3.200 good for 6 to 8 psi,but i have had a lot of problems with my rear end,so first things first man go ahead with moser 12 bolt and get that out of the way,my 01 ss is pretty much stock and ive been through 2 stock rear ends,so anything you do will put you at risk for breakage

 

The P-1SC is roughly $400.00 cheaper than the D-1SC, but I do not recommend going with the P-1SC unless you never plan on doing much else with the car. For one, the P-1SC comes withg the smaller 3.5" twin intercoolers, instead of the larger and new for '05 4.5" twin intercoolers that are now standard on the D-1SC. The P-1Sc also has to be spun faster to make X amount of boost, compared to the D-1SC, so you will see more heat build-up as a result. Now say you decide in a year to go with forged internals, because 450 to 500 rwhp has become boring for you, (it happens, trust me...) and you want to up the boost to 12 to 14 psi. The P-1SC won't be there for you, and you'll have to send it in to get it upgraded into a D-1SC. The cases are the same, so the internals get swapped out. easy enough to do, but it will cost you approx $1,200.00!!! Bob

 

True, good comments.
But if 500rwhp is enough. P-1SC is a good unit (less money)

 

Yes it is, a P-1SC has our '95 Formula with it's stock internal LT1 down to 11.32 at 118 mph. Bob

 

do all the supporting mods like others have said. I threw a cam in because i wanted some power before I went FI. get everything set up for boost then you won't have as many headaches later on. if you want to put a cam in now that will work with your set up look at lingenfelter cams, as they are great sleeper cams, and good with boosted applications.