taking heads off need help!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
Likes: 1
From: Redondo Beach, California
took the d.s head off with the p.steering assembly after taking pulley off, need to drain coolant from the plug, not the lower radiator hose. need to fix a scratch on the head. Right now Iam clean the holes, fun stuff.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
From: Northern Va
SELLSZ06, I've been reading your post because I'm also removing my heads this weekend. I know this doesn't help you now but I figured I'd post my experience with the power steering pump.
First, I did pull both radiator hoses (at the radiator) and let the water pump just sit there with the other hoses still connected. Next, I removed the top ps pump bolt (obviously easy). Next, I did the bottom bolt. I don't know if anyone has tried this but a stubby wrench and socket does fit in there. This bolt was no problem at all, especially with the water pump out of the way. I probably could have done it with the water pump in place but it definitely would have been harder (shorter turns):
The bolt on the back side would normally be the toughest, but with the other 2 bolts removed this one was very easy as well (even easier because I fabbed up a skinny wrench to do the job). I did break the bolt loose with a 'real' wrench first:
Water pump and ps pump just hanging:
The tools that I used (plus a normal 15mm wrench):
Other than the time it took me to fab up the skinny wrench, this procedure was pretty damn quick. I also expect the re-install to go pretty easy as well.
Maybe this will help someone else.
First, I did pull both radiator hoses (at the radiator) and let the water pump just sit there with the other hoses still connected. Next, I removed the top ps pump bolt (obviously easy). Next, I did the bottom bolt. I don't know if anyone has tried this but a stubby wrench and socket does fit in there. This bolt was no problem at all, especially with the water pump out of the way. I probably could have done it with the water pump in place but it definitely would have been harder (shorter turns):
The bolt on the back side would normally be the toughest, but with the other 2 bolts removed this one was very easy as well (even easier because I fabbed up a skinny wrench to do the job). I did break the bolt loose with a 'real' wrench first:
Water pump and ps pump just hanging:
The tools that I used (plus a normal 15mm wrench):
Other than the time it took me to fab up the skinny wrench, this procedure was pretty damn quick. I also expect the re-install to go pretty easy as well.
Maybe this will help someone else.
I just swapped the heads on my car this weekend... with some help from the guys at eastside, and noyzee... here's what I can say:
Water pump stays on.
Power steering pump comes off easy, if you pull the pulley, which is also not too hard, if you have the puller/reinstall tool.
The fuel line comes of with a pair of pliers, pull the clip off, and slide the rubber piece back onto the fuel rail, that's how we did mine.
No need to really drain the block. Might make less of a mess.. but with the mess I already had, there' was no point.
Headers suck to remove, but suck to reinstall even more.
The back manafold bolts on a f body are a pain to get to.
The edge of the heads are VERY sharp.. one of my knuckles will never be the same LOL.
The bolts on the back of the heads, with the grounds on them, are a pain. All my grounds on the drivers side all went back on with one bolt rather then the 2 thank you very much.
Heater box on an f body is in the way of a big tq wrench.. hole now in the heater box cover on passengers side thank you. ( no air sees that part, should still be fine.. gonan come out eventually anyway, and can not be seen with car back together )
Did I mention the edge of the heads are sharp?
Water pump stays on.
Power steering pump comes off easy, if you pull the pulley, which is also not too hard, if you have the puller/reinstall tool.
The fuel line comes of with a pair of pliers, pull the clip off, and slide the rubber piece back onto the fuel rail, that's how we did mine.
No need to really drain the block. Might make less of a mess.. but with the mess I already had, there' was no point.
Headers suck to remove, but suck to reinstall even more.
The back manafold bolts on a f body are a pain to get to.
The edge of the heads are VERY sharp.. one of my knuckles will never be the same LOL.
The bolts on the back of the heads, with the grounds on them, are a pain. All my grounds on the drivers side all went back on with one bolt rather then the 2 thank you very much.
Heater box on an f body is in the way of a big tq wrench.. hole now in the heater box cover on passengers side thank you. ( no air sees that part, should still be fine.. gonan come out eventually anyway, and can not be seen with car back together )
Did I mention the edge of the heads are sharp?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
Likes: 1
From: Redondo Beach, California
BLACKZ28 thanks anyway, i like that wrench you made good idea. I could fit a wrench in there to break that bolt so I just took the p.s. assembly out on the head after removing the pulley.
Jl Ill be putting the heads on today and Iam looking forward for those bolts in the back of the heads. p.s Ill let you know what my knuckles end up like.
Jl Ill be putting the heads on today and Iam looking forward for those bolts in the back of the heads. p.s Ill let you know what my knuckles end up like.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
Likes: 1
From: Redondo Beach, California
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
how did the whole assembly go? get teh car fired back up yet?
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Gary's Th400 is going in next.
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