Will it go 650 RWHP N/A
12-09-2005, 05:14 PM
#61
There's no reson to spin a street car over 7k. If the cam pulls into that range, your likley gunna be soft on the low-end. If your willing to spend the extra $250 for the castings and an extra $1500 for the custom rockers, the 265's will be fine. If it were my street only car, I'd probablly go with the 255's.You'd be surprised at the power you can make with an intake that will actually let the heads breath. 330 cfm in itself can support an *** load of HP.
12-09-2005, 05:57 PM
#62
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
There's no reson to spin a street car over 7k. If the cam pulls into that range, your likley gunna be soft on the low-end.
I'm just reinerating some of the things that I've gone through in my 454 LSx build. 
12-10-2005, 03:18 AM
#65
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Originally Posted by vmax1500
Just register to the site... trust me, it will be worth your while...
You never know what can happen in this game I guess.
12-10-2005, 03:24 AM
#66
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
There's no reson to spin a street car over 7k. If the cam pulls into that range, your likley gunna be soft on the low-end. If your willing to spend the extra $250 for the castings and an extra $1500 for the custom rockers, the 265's will be fine. If it were my street only car, I'd probablly go with the 255's.You'd be surprised at the power you can make with an intake that will actually let the heads breath. 330 cfm in itself can support an *** load of HP.
Its like computers, things get improved too quickly.I think after the two races I had today I do want to go N/A with a 250-300 progressively controlled shot. The RAW power of N/A is just too fun. A single turbo set up making 1,000 RWHP would be great but I need to wait and see how these Hi-Flo kits turn out.
12-10-2005, 11:37 AM
#67
I don't think you have to worry about the splayed valve heads that are coming out. Like I said, those are race only castings that are not intended for street use. Since you have your heads and intake pretty much picked, you need to think about a cam. Everyone is going to give you mixed answers, but a few things you should keep in mind are that truly efficent heads don't need huge camshafts to make big power, and when choosing your cam, keep an eye on the IVC number to make sure you don't lower your DCR to low. This could cause you to have low under curve power because of the loss in compression, no matter how many cubes you have. If you use the Harrop, you can get away with a bigger cam and a tighter LSA which will keep the IVC suitable.
12-10-2005, 12:29 PM
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Cary @ ETP said that a smaller port splayed head for street use will be coming out. I agree with you that the 285 is too big for the street, but it would be interesting to compare the splayed vs. the 11 degree if both were at 265.
1st post, second paragraph.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...yed+valve+head
1st post, second paragraph.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...yed+valve+head
12-10-2005, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gtovan
Cary @ ETP said that a smaller port splayed head for street use will be coming out. I agree with you that the 285 is too big for the street, but it would be interesting to compare the splayed vs. the 11 degree if both were at 265.
1st post, second paragraph.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...yed+valve+head
1st post, second paragraph.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...yed+valve+head
What if I decided to go solid roller, than would these heads be recommended?
12-10-2005, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickin
Why are the 285's too big for the street, I want as much power as possible (hyd cam).
What if I decided to go solid roller, than would these heads be recommended?
What if I decided to go solid roller, than would these heads be recommended?
The 285's will hurt your low and mid range power due to lower port velocity compared to the 265's or 255's. They will make gobs of top end, but I would think you are giving up too much bottom end for a street car.
12-10-2005, 01:52 PM
#72
Originally Posted by Quickin
Why are the 285's too big for the street, I want as much power as possible (hyd cam).
What if I decided to go solid roller, than would these heads be recommended?
What if I decided to go solid roller, than would these heads be recommended?
12-10-2005, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
It seems like your getting into the bigger is better thing. Just because a head flows a certain number, dosen't mean it is better for a givin application. That is why you have to decide what kinda needs you want from the motor. There comes a point when certain parts become "race only" and tend to make driveability on the street unbearable. Huge port, big cfm heads are usaully intended for the drag car that never drops below 5k rpm's. Your headed in the right direction with the 265's and a 250's duration Hydraulic cam. This will put your 436 at about "max effort" street, unless you wanted to go solid, which is another tradeoff in itself.
And again, this will not be a daily driver like it is now, it'll get driven much less if this project happens.
And high rpm power is what I want, since it'll be used mainly for roll races. I understand that I may lose some low end torque, but I would think that whatever I do the engine will put down more torque than I could ever use on the street, even with ET Streets. I mean, the 480 RWTQ I have now is unusable with BFG drags.
.
Last edited by Quickin; 12-10-2005 at 05:30 PM.
12-10-2005, 08:20 PM
#75
Originally Posted by Quickin
Solid roller it is than.
12-10-2005, 08:51 PM
#76
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How are you guys already picking out cam specs on a setup that hasnt even been flowed yet? If you want a max effort engine, with as much hp as possible, you cant just start guessing at how big of cam you want. You need to flow the heads AND intake together. Give that info and all the specs to a competent cam grinder, tell them what you want, and go from there. It is pointless to just start randomly picking a cam now though.
12-10-2005, 09:49 PM
#77
Originally Posted by Lostpatrolman
How are you guys already picking out cam specs on a setup that hasnt even been flowed yet? If you want a max effort engine, with as much hp as possible, you cant just start guessing at how big of cam you want. You need to flow the heads AND intake together. Give that info and all the specs to a competent cam grinder, tell them what you want, and go from there. It is pointless to just start randomly picking a cam now though.
12-11-2005, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
Good choice. You and I are setting up our cars for the same type of racing. I was going to go with a big SR, even had a cam, but decided against it only because I want to take my TA on road trips from N.C. to Texas, and that much lift (+.700) would have made me paroniod about losing a spring in the middle of nowhere. You should swap to an M6 like I did for highway purposes. That was the smartest thing I've done.