383 or supercharger???
383 or supercharger??? alright guys im fimilar with my LS1 and im actually about to be in the air force 
....so eventually i will have the money to do this...but my question is should i go bore it out and go 383 with rebuilt internals blah blah blah....or should i go supercharger?....now unfortunately my car burns oil and i have a feeling its those shity low compression factory rings in it causing this...not sure but almost positive.....because when i get on it u could see the smoke half mile away....but my car right now has a comp 224/224 112lsa, Ls6intake, slp lid w/K&N,slp smooth below, mac mid lengths, custom y-pipe, random tech exhaust, and 8.5 MSD wires....im starting to get used to the power (lol according to texas boys...lack of power 
)....anyway no matter what i do...i plan on yankin the engine either way because i refuse to slap a charger on it with the internals not setup right...and if i decide to stroke then its gonna need a rebuild anyway....i was askin what would be the best rout to take...mainly for the long run...right now im makin about 371hp (untuned)............yea yea dont say it 
....so eventually i will have the money to do this...but my question is should i go bore it out and go 383 with rebuilt internals blah blah blah....or should i go supercharger?....now unfortunately my car burns oil and i have a feeling its those shity low compression factory rings in it causing this...not sure but almost positive.....because when i get on it u could see the smoke half mile away....but my car right now has a comp 224/224 112lsa, Ls6intake, slp lid w/K&N,slp smooth below, mac mid lengths, custom y-pipe, random tech exhaust, and 8.5 MSD wires....im starting to get used to the power (lol according to texas boys...lack of power )....anyway no matter what i do...i plan on yankin the engine either way because i refuse to slap a charger on it with the internals not setup right...and if i decide to stroke then its gonna need a rebuild anyway....i was askin what would be the best rout to take...mainly for the long run...right now im makin about 371hp (untuned)............yea yea dont say it If your leaning to the blower you can exchange your stock SB for a forged 346-348ci for 3,000(+-).Check with some sponsors. I got my forged SB for $3100 with no cores (didn't want to give up my stock SB) from texas speed. A 383 all bore will cost you alot more. Also with what ever setup you go with you'll have to go with a new H/C package. I vote blower but its all what you want, NA power with bigger cubes or go forced induction. If you have a lot of coin to spend you could do both 
Good luck.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by SStheBest
....lol yeaaaa i wish....i was kinda leaning that way. BTW i forgot that id have to do a head swap...and im sure i could use a bigger cam.
just did alot or research and im lookin around 5grand for a solid bottom end and top end....and thats if i keep my block. damnit if i didnt have that oil problem i wouldnt worry so much but that just wouldnt be smart to get a blower knowing ur engine needed respiration first...AHHH. I just cringed knowing as soon as i get that ball rollin, im gonna need to yank that 10 bolt out as well....there goes another $2600 
.....
..... Welcome to the corp! I only have a year left til I can retire 
I've been in your situation before in more ways than one.
Wait until you get to your first duty station before spending any money.
Unless you are married or an officer you'll probably get stuck in a dorm for a while and not have a decent place to work on your project. Base hobby shops charge a lot of fees (go TDY or deploy and they add up fast), and being at the mercy of someone else to work on your car just sucks.
First thing I suggest when you get to your duty station is to look around for a little beater car to buy. In the military getting to work is NOT an option, so you need a reliable back-up plan first.
Then I suggest not building the engine in your car, but build a second engine kept on a stand until ready for the swap. This means less down time, plus a spare engine in case of disaster. You'll be thankful later.
If you're young the best thing you could do is pay off the car early to drop your insurance payment. No need for full coverage on a engine-swap project car.
Once you have your beater car and you want to go fast with your LS1 get a bottle. A $300 dry system will get you the power of a blower and then some for much less money. Meanwhile you have a back-up and can be building engine #2 of your choice.
Who knows, once you run a bottle you may never think about a blower again. Within a year or so you should be able to have engine #2 ready to try.
If you go big cubes, then I suggest buying the shortblock already assembled and with a warranty.
If you buy a blower, make sure it's a match for the cubes you plan to run it on ...same for the heads.
I've been in your situation before in more ways than one.
Wait until you get to your first duty station before spending any money.
Unless you are married or an officer you'll probably get stuck in a dorm for a while and not have a decent place to work on your project. Base hobby shops charge a lot of fees (go TDY or deploy and they add up fast), and being at the mercy of someone else to work on your car just sucks.
First thing I suggest when you get to your duty station is to look around for a little beater car to buy. In the military getting to work is NOT an option, so you need a reliable back-up plan first.
Then I suggest not building the engine in your car, but build a second engine kept on a stand until ready for the swap. This means less down time, plus a spare engine in case of disaster. You'll be thankful later.
If you're young the best thing you could do is pay off the car early to drop your insurance payment. No need for full coverage on a engine-swap project car.
Once you have your beater car and you want to go fast with your LS1 get a bottle. A $300 dry system will get you the power of a blower and then some for much less money. Meanwhile you have a back-up and can be building engine #2 of your choice.
Who knows, once you run a bottle you may never think about a blower again. Within a year or so you should be able to have engine #2 ready to try.
If you go big cubes, then I suggest buying the shortblock already assembled and with a warranty.
If you buy a blower, make sure it's a match for the cubes you plan to run it on ...same for the heads.
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I'd say redo the motor, if a stroker setup is what you want, go for it. the heads and cam will need changing anyway, that you already know... but build the motor for boost. Go for a 9 to 1 comp. ratio, and go for a good sized blower cam, and run it that way for a while, and supercharge later. A built motor for boost will still be stronger running then what you have now, and when you are ready to go teh next step, you will have a broken in motor that was designed for it. My .02
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Verdad Gallardo About the oil problem, it may not be a serious issue. I've seen guys blowing oil smoke and spray 150 shot of nitrous on top of it without problems.
Try running a filter on your PCV line. If the oil was coming from there then it will help.
Try running a filter on your PCV line. If the oil was coming from there then it will help.
i like the info....by the white2001s10, my basic takes place in lackland AFB...getting my car down there from here might be somewhat of an issue. That was a second question as well...wandering if i should just drive the **** outta my motor....and just buy replacement like the 348 offered from LS1 speed with the warranty....and just swap my intake, lid..blah blah blah over???
i like the info....BTW white2001s10, my basic takes place in lackland AFB...getting my car down there from here might be somewhat of an issue. That was a second question as well...wandering if i should just drive the **** outta my motor....and just buy replacement like the 348 offered from LS1 speed with the warranty....and just swap my intake, lid..blah blah blah over???
i like the info....BTW white2001s10, my basic takes place in lackland AFB in Texas...getting my car down there from here might be somewhat of an issue. That was a second question as well...wandering if i should just drive the **** outta my motor....and just buy replacement like the 348 offered from LS1 speed with the warranty....and just swap my intake, lid..blah blah blah over???
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Originally Posted by white2001s10
Welcome to the corp! I only have a year left til I can retire
I've been in your situation before in more ways than one.
Wait until you get to your first duty station before spending any money.
Unless you are married or an officer you'll probably get stuck in a dorm for a while and not have a decent place to work on your project. Base hobby shops charge a lot of fees (go TDY or deploy and they add up fast), and being at the mercy of someone else to work on your car just sucks.
First thing I suggest when you get to your duty station is to look around for a little beater car to buy. In the military getting to work is NOT an option, so you need a reliable back-up plan first.
Then I suggest not building the engine in your car, but build a second engine kept on a stand until ready for the swap. This means less down time, plus a spare engine in case of disaster. You'll be thankful later.
If you're young the best thing you could do is pay off the car early to drop your insurance payment. No need for full coverage on a engine-swap project car.
Once you have your beater car and you want to go fast with your LS1 get a bottle. A $300 dry system will get you the power of a blower and then some for much less money. Meanwhile you have a back-up and can be building engine #2 of your choice.
Who knows, once you run a bottle you may never think about a blower again. Within a year or so you should be able to have engine #2 ready to try.
If you go big cubes, then I suggest buying the shortblock already assembled and with a warranty.
If you buy a blower, make sure it's a match for the cubes you plan to run it on ...same for the heads.
I've been in your situation before in more ways than one.
Wait until you get to your first duty station before spending any money.
Unless you are married or an officer you'll probably get stuck in a dorm for a while and not have a decent place to work on your project. Base hobby shops charge a lot of fees (go TDY or deploy and they add up fast), and being at the mercy of someone else to work on your car just sucks.
First thing I suggest when you get to your duty station is to look around for a little beater car to buy. In the military getting to work is NOT an option, so you need a reliable back-up plan first.
Then I suggest not building the engine in your car, but build a second engine kept on a stand until ready for the swap. This means less down time, plus a spare engine in case of disaster. You'll be thankful later.
If you're young the best thing you could do is pay off the car early to drop your insurance payment. No need for full coverage on a engine-swap project car.
Once you have your beater car and you want to go fast with your LS1 get a bottle. A $300 dry system will get you the power of a blower and then some for much less money. Meanwhile you have a back-up and can be building engine #2 of your choice.
Who knows, once you run a bottle you may never think about a blower again. Within a year or so you should be able to have engine #2 ready to try.
If you go big cubes, then I suggest buying the shortblock already assembled and with a warranty.
If you buy a blower, make sure it's a match for the cubes you plan to run it on ...same for the heads.
Originally Posted by SStheBest
i like the info....by the white2001s10, my basic takes place in lackland AFB...getting my car down there from here might be somewhat of an issue. That was a second question as well...wandering if i should just drive the **** outta my motor....and just buy replacement like the 348 offered from LS1 speed with the warranty....and just swap my intake, lid..blah blah blah over???
I don't think you are allowed to drive during basic, but maybe that has changed.