Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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If I threw on some affordable heads...

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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 04:14 AM
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Default If I threw on some affordable heads...

The setup so far called for a TR230...now...

I have a 2001 LS1 and it would be set up accordingly:

Lid
LS6 Intake
TR230 Cam
Pacesetter LT's w/TSP Rumbler X

If I threw on some affordable heads, say a Patriot LS6 style head (which btw the Stage II and III are the same price so wouldn't you just get the III?) how much more power would it give over just the cam only setup?

This is in an A4 car. Thanks.

Last edited by BlackHawk T/A; Dec 22, 2005 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 04:31 AM
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Probably 25-35 rwhp.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 04:42 AM
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Cool that's kinda what I figured...now what if I chose the 59cc head?

How much would the compression ratio be raised from a 5cc difference and how much power would you get out of it?

They have a 64cc and 59cc version on their site.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 08:07 AM
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livernois has a ported LS6 head for under a grand. That is what you need
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by treyZ28
livernois has a ported LS6 head for under a grand. That is what you need

YEah, cast CNC'ed 243's are tough to beat when they almost cost that much straight from GM as Cast!!!
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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We can do a set of CNC ported 243 castings bare for $845.00 a pair. We can also do these with Ferrea 2.02"/1.57" valves for $1,075.00 (w/o springs, using stock guides), or we can do these with Ferrea 2.02"/1.57" valves, Patriot Gold dual springs, ti retainers, Super 7 locks, bronze guides, viton seals, and machined spring bases for $1,395.00. Don't forget about our LS6 style heads which are currently $1,195.00 assembled per pair. We have several options that we can give you.

Last edited by Gunnar@Patriot; Dec 19, 2005 at 09:28 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Yeah I saw those on the site. What makes the 243 heads more expensive than the LS6 style?

And I assume the Stage III is for a larger bore?
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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Yes the stage III is for big bore applications. We have more in a set of 243 heads.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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you want to go to 11:1 compression too for another ~20rwhp....
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
you want to go to 11:1 compression too for another ~20rwhp....
We can do a set of our LS6 style heads in a 59cc or we can mill a factory 243 to 59cc.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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Wow you can really gain that much by going to 11:1?

How about avoiding pinging on pump gas? We have 91 here.

Is it going to be on the edge or is it all in the tune?
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Wow you can really gain that much by going to 11:1?

How about avoiding pinging on pump gas? We have 91 here.

Is it going to be on the edge or is it all in the tune?
Alot of it will depend on the tune. We usually reccomend that 10.5-1 be the most you run on 91 octane. As far as 20 rwhp, we usually don't see that big of a difference.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 06:35 PM
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What would the CC's need to be to put it at 10.5 do you think?
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 06:49 PM
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Get some TEA 1.5s milled .015 youll pick up 40 to 50 rhwp with a proper tune. Those heads have a great exhaust port and will work well with that reverse split, I know.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
What would the CC's need to be to put it at 10.5 do you think?

64cc chambers should give you 10.5-1 compression.
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Old Dec 19, 2005 | 09:23 PM
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Ahh that makes sense I guess. I assumed the stock chambers were a higher CC because the stock compression is a little lower.

Looks like a great deal.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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As we said before, we can mill these 243 heads for you at no additional charge.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 05:20 PM
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On a side note, Gunnar's suggestion for the lower compression is, as I've found out, for the longevity of the motor. The high compression heads will run somewhat better, but at the added expense of going back into your motor for a rebuild in another 30-40k miles, it isn't worth it just to make a good street setup. 10.5 is good, anything over 11 to 1 is going to start causing problems way down the road.

I am going through the same thing you are, so join the head-hunter club.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackZCamaro
On a side note, Gunnar's suggestion for the lower compression is, as I've found out, for the longevity of the motor. The high compression heads will run somewhat better, but at the added expense of going back into your motor for a rebuild in another 30-40k miles, it isn't worth it just to make a good street setup. 10.5 is good, anything over 11 to 1 is going to start causing problems way down the road.

I am going through the same thing you are, so join the head-hunter club.
what makes you say higher compression engines are less durable?
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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They typically are. Creating more cylinder pressure than a short block was designed for will eventually cause excessive wear, while not at the same rate as a FI car, but still, it will eventually begin to take its toll on the motor. The RPMS required to flow a set of heads can accelerate that wear too. The shops and companies we have all talked to warned us that the higher compression heads -WILL- put more stress on the rings, and quite possibly the bearings, and the motor will need to be re-ringed/bearinged at some point.
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