MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

so i can use the same size seals for intake and exhaust then?

i just happen to get 17, so one extra for it being christmas and all? lol

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

I'm assuming you removed the condensor and the radiator... you've got plenty of room up front. Place the crank pulley snugly on the snout, give it a couple nice good wacks with your fist to get it seated. Take a small section of 2x4 set it on the front of the crank pulley. Get a rubber mallet and pop the board a couple times directly in the center of the pulley. Don't pop it too hard you don't want to knock your thrust bearing too hard. A couple good pops and you should be able to thread your factory crank bolt in several threads no prob. If I had to guess, I would say the shavings on your cam is bearing material... Thats not real good, but I think you'll be alright. Cam bearings have to be pressed out and pressed back in. Which means you have to have your block out of your car and taken apart... machine shop, the whole deal. If you can come up with some assembly lube or something a little thicker than motor oil it'll be better on your bearings when your throwing that cam back in there. Best of luck and let us know if you have any other issues. Merry Christmas.

Threesixes

iTrader: (5)

I put my crank pulley (asp) in the oven at 200* for an hour. Then I took it out with an oven mitt and it slid far enough on that the stock bolt worked.

CBX

Go for it. Some asswipe in Rhode Island complained about it and they made me turn it in. Nobody tried to race me because of it, but I got a few laughs out of people. One time a couple of Providence motorcycle cops pulled up to me and asked me "how quick is it?", and laughed and told me they liked the plate. My wife didn't see the humor though...

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

armageddon--thanks for the advice. will torquing the bolt to 240 lb ft be enough to "stretch" the bolt into place? on ls1howto.com, he says to put a breaker bar on, and turn it a little more, but i don't really like that idea. If i can get a big enough torque wrench, should 240 be good enough?

what about the seals, does everybody agree i can use the same ones for intake AND exhaust?

also, I don't see how those could be bearing shavings, they were aluminum, aren't the bearings metal?


CBX--thanks for the info! I still might get it, I'm not sure. I haven't found anything else good enough. I can't believe they made you turn it in! I would tell them it stands for "freakin quick" and buzz off lol.

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

well that 240 lb ft is needed to seat the pulley onto the snout. Then you got to break that bolt loose that was torqued to 240 and install the new crank bolt. The new crank bolt gets torqued to 37 lb ft I belive? then you need to strech that bolt into place by turning it an aditional 140 degrees.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

cool thanks

any more ideas about the seals?

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

i'm trying to drop the oil pan down some since i have a new timing chain to put on, but she is hung up somewhere, I see 2 large bolts on the bell housing of the tranny going into the very back of the oil pan...do those need to come out. i found all the 10mm bolts going around the oil pan, but i can pry the front down a little bit, but the back is hung up

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

Yep I took those two big ones out. Mine was hanging up as well, but once I got them out it dropped for me.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

how much force does the cam retainer plate see? I put some locktite on there, and used my friends torque wrench. I think I tighten them a little bit too much, i think his torque wrench is a p.o.s., so i'll get my own tmr. just curious abou that.

still wondering what to do about those valve seals that I got. they are all brown, all the same size...i guess i should go with them?

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, your fine. Mine were all the same too and I was thinking they messed up too. Come to find out thats pretty normal these days, they just give you all the same kind which can be used on intake or exhaust. I also had a problem droping the oil pan. After alot of tugging and beating I got it to drop about 1/2" and that was just enough for me to get at that stupid pickup tube bolt. Make sure you shove a rag in the pan while you mess with that bolt, it saved me about three times.

CUJO98TA

iTrader: (1)

Please make sure you are using a good accurate torque wrench. I knew a guy that tightened his cam retainer plate too tight and 100 miles after his cam install his oil pressure dropped. Come to find out, the retainer plate had cracked and a small piece of it found its way into the oil pump. Just fyi and good luck with the rest of your cam install.

Jeff

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

how would you know if the wrench is accurate or not?

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

ugh i hope that doesn't happen to me! it didn't feel right, b/c i was tightening, and tightening, and i knew i had gone past the torque specs. plus the torque wrench at work clicks really loud, and this one turned out to be really quick and i had the stereo loud...so i know they are tight, i don't think i striped the threads, the bolts seemed okay, plus the loctite

i don't think my plate would snap, they were tightened evenly, so there shouldn't be a problem

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

whats the GM part number for the spring locks? just incase i loose one....i.e. I already lost one LOL

what are the chances my dealership will have one in stock? any idea on price?

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

nobody?

TWINSCREW

iTrader: (1)

10166345 GM list is .85 CENTS. They should have them in stock. I do and i work at a gm dealer.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

'eh my stupid dealership didn't have any...and the closest dealership with them is 30 minutes away...i hate living in a po dunk lol

but after going to a million different small auto stores, one actually had some

DaddySS

I would think the dealer would have them.

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

hows it coming? I read this entire thread!