MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

just finished up the springs

how many heat cycles should I do? 3?

I wont beable to drive it, so she'll have to idle

What about drilling a hole in the TB? Do I need to? What size?

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

Only drill a hole if the car has a hard time idleing.

I think you only need it to run up to full temp and let it cool overnight...for the springs.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

as 1:40 AM, SHE STARTED!!!!!!

started right up! didn't die idling, oil pressure was fine, heated up to 210 fairly quickly and SOUNDS MEAN AS HELL

shes cooling down for the night...should i take her down the street tmr?? what do i do now??

she does sound like a sewing machine, but it is louder on the driver side, in the middle...would this be anything to worry about??

THANK YOU SO MUCH EVERYBODY



...now lets hope for no problems down the road :/

WsSickLs6

awesome...

just let it rest and give it a good ride tomorrow throughout the Rpm band...then go tune it

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

ah i can't

its ohio here, and snow and lots of salt, so shes indoors for awhile. thats why i didn't know if i should heat it up some, or maybe just drive it down the street (dead end street, no traffic...or cops)

ls1howto.com says to keep it under 4k...or is that only for the first heat cycle?

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Now you got a beast on your hands. They want you to keep it under 4k to make sure everything is working and no leaks or anything. I drove mine around a few times and kept an eye on fluid levels and oil pressure before I tried wot. Did you add coolant after you started it up? It will most likely take a little more. After running it in the garage for a few minutes, check underneath and in the engine bay for any leaks. If it all looks good take it for a light test drive, check again to be safe and you should be ready to beat on it. I had one coolant hose spraying a little fluid so I got a new clamp and it was all good. Something like that could become a serious problem if you don't catch it right away. Good luck.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

awesome, thanks guys, i'll run it down the road a few times, under 4k...the neighbors will REALLY hate me...yes!

i kept checking underneath the car last night for oil pan leaks, and filled the radiator as it ran

JakeY2KZ

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like you had your first sucessful cam swap. Many more to come I can gurantee you that.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

thats for DAMN sure! I love this. I just took it up and down the road about 4-5 times, put about 2 miles on it. No leaks that I noticed. The neighbor came over (new guy, haven't met him yet) and goes "you put a cam in that thing!" LOL

turns out he just sold his procharged formula putting down around 650 he said.

so is she pretty much done now? Other than watching the fluids? I'll probably change the oil in the spring when I take the car back out.


I am still worried that the "sewing machine" noise is louder on the drivers side, right in the middle...is that something i should look at? I don't know what it could be?????

just a little paranoid, its still new

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

The sewing machine noise is normal..do not drill a hole in the throttle plate..a tune is all you need..you will have to drive it around for a while till the car learns a little with the new cam in it...it will probably turn on you SES light a few times..but a tune will be nessessary to get the car running at its best..congrats!

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

i know the sewing machine noise is normal, but it is noticably louder right there in that spot. i was just a little worried. Car seems to run fine, i get an SES light but thats always been on since i took my cats off. I should be getting HPTuners and a dyno tune in the spring.

I LOVE the lope of the cam right now, but if i get it tuned...will it go down some? I'd really like to keep it nice and aggressive

vodas00ss

iTrader: (14)

it might smooth it out a little, and alot of it will depend on what rpm they set your car to idle at. But dont worry, the idle will still be very noticible

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

cool good good

so the little louder part on the drivers side shouldn't be anything to worry about then?

blueovalbeater

iTrader: (1)

i feel your joy matt (my name is matt also) I just finished my cam swap and long tube header install, car sounds like a beast. just wanted to rejoice

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

feels great doesn't it?

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Nothing better than doing it yourself.

blueovalbeater

iTrader: (1)

not trying to down play the job cause it was a big job, but its really not as bad as people think. you just have to have a game plan and wrench away!

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

hehehehe no one answering the noise question. I'll take a stab at it for ya... its normal. I always hear things and wonder if a rocker is ok or a pushrod or a lifter but thats just the noise that comes along with the performance. Unless its a "BIG" diffference then dont worry about it. You torqued everything the same right? and used locktite where needed? I got paranoid after my first swap as well, but I know I followed the directions exactly and forgot nothing. Then I took on the head swap. Its actualy easier than the cam swap believe it or not.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

your right, it is a lot easier than I thought it would be. I spent more time running uptown to my grandpa's for the right tools, or to the store or something than I did actually wrenching on the car

thanks for commenting on the noise. Your right, i'm very paranoid right now, and will be until summer and I get some miles on it. the noise isn't like "oh my god its so loud right there" but if you walk from one side to the other, you do notice it some. i suppose i could always pull that valve cover off and check everything again. Its the drivers side so there is actually room to work with!

Black Z/28

It's interesting to get different impressions from people about which is harder. I just finished my head swap (I did my cam swap a year ago) and I think the head swap was harder than the cam swap; reaching the ground bolts on the back of the heads, reconnecting everything behind the manifold, cleaning the bolt holes, scraping the old gasket, PS pump bracket- all of this stuff was very tedious. I thought the hardest part of the cam swap was messing with the radiator and hoses. But maybe because the head swap is in my recent memory it only seems that it was harder. Regardless, I know I saved a ****-load of money doing the work myself and I learned a lot. It does feel quite satisfying as well.