Motor Break In Process? (my search is f'ed)
#22
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Originally Posted by 777
Not that I've heard of. If they are torqued right the first time they shouldn't need to be re-torqued.
You re-torque wheels after 50 miles, why not your motor?
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The only reference I have ever been able to dig up in any manual or technical data has been for Lycoming and for Continental piston engines for airplanes. Thier recomended break in procedures are much like stated above. I believe it was one hour of increasing rpm and load. After that the engine is ready for service. Thats about How I have done it as well.
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
The only reference I have ever been able to dig up in any manual or technical data has been for Lycoming and for Continental piston engines for airplanes. Thier recomended break in procedures are much like stated above. I believe it was one hour of increasing rpm and load. After that the engine is ready for service. Thats about How I have done it as well.
One I hadn't considered......I'd hate to be flying somewhere and hear the pilot say something like "Ladies and gentlemen, this is your captain. Our cruising altitude is 28,000 feet. Today we're breaking in a new engine, so our speed will vary as we fly. If we start dropping out of the sky like a rock, don't worry about it - it'll only be for a few minutes while we follow the break-in procedure......"
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1. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
2. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
3. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
4. Change oil. Drive it like you stole it for 500 miles.
5. Enjoy.
2. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
3. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
4. Change oil. Drive it like you stole it for 500 miles.
5. Enjoy.
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Except for the fact that aluminum expands and contracts quite a bit. I heard of doing this with heads and rocker arms?
You re-torque wheels after 50 miles, why not your motor?
You re-torque wheels after 50 miles, why not your motor?
because your heads have torque to yeild bolts and usually, you use studs on a hi-pro build up anyway.
#30
All following comments are assuming it's a hi-po engine
i would disagree here just cause i wouldn't rev that high with new valve springs(assuming they're gonna be performance type) until the 3rd heat cycle
diagree again same as reason #1
i guess it wouldn't hurt to drive it around the block once
I disagree again. It wont hurt to change the oil i guess, but you can't drive it like you stole it until it's tuned. Also you're bound to get arrested or killed doing that for 500 miles straight, and it serves no purpose especially since rings dont take that long to seat.
Originally Posted by treyZ28
1. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
2. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
3. let it sit and check for bad ****. scan, etc. drive it around the block, going about half way up your powerband.
4. Change oil. Drive it like you stole it for 500 miles.
#31
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Originally Posted by Var
All following comments are assuming it's a hi-po engine
i would disagree here just cause i wouldn't rev that high with new valve springs(assuming they're gonna be performance type) until the 3rd heat cycle
diagree again same as reason #1
i guess it wouldn't hurt to drive it around the block once
I disagree again. It wont hurt to change the oil i guess, but you can't drive it like you stole it until it's tuned. Also you're bound to get arrested or killed doing that for 500 miles straight, and it serves no purpose especially since rings dont take that long to seat.
i would disagree here just cause i wouldn't rev that high with new valve springs(assuming they're gonna be performance type) until the 3rd heat cycle
diagree again same as reason #1
i guess it wouldn't hurt to drive it around the block once
I disagree again. It wont hurt to change the oil i guess, but you can't drive it like you stole it until it's tuned. Also you're bound to get arrested or killed doing that for 500 miles straight, and it serves no purpose especially since rings dont take that long to seat.
assuming its a pushrod engine- its not reving beyond 7k. 3500-400rpm should be fine. I know pushrod can go higher, but i dont think this is a solid roller type setup.
I dont think the valves will have a problem going for a 2 minute 3500rpm drive. But you know what they compare opinions to.
I would personally be running a very safe tune on the car while doing these runs. Drive it like you stole it doesn't mean you're on the indy speedway. Well I didn't intend on it to mean that. I meant put a good amount of load on stuff. I didn't mean "wot or full brake if its on".
A mustang dyno is the ideal place to break in a car.
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re-torquing bolts after break-in
Imagine every new car buyer having to bring there new cars back to the dealerships for re-torquing....clusterfuck to say the least.
Imagine every new car buyer having to bring there new cars back to the dealerships for re-torquing....clusterfuck to say the least.