Started Heads&Cam today..Holy Crap!!
12-23-2005, 11:22 PM
#24
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I was pleasantly surprised by the ease of my H/C install. Once you get the exhaust and wiring out of the way there is so much room to work. It seemed easier than my 3rd gens. and the gen 3 engine is cake.
Watch out when you're torquing the crank bolt back down. GM calls for some god awful number like 170 ft/lb or something. I "attempted" to reach it and the bolt snapped off in the crank right at the threads.
Needless to say I felt like dying and couldn't get the bolt out. tried everything that didn't involve heating or removing the crank with no success. Luckilly it broke off pretty deep in there and left me like 2" of hole that I threaded and put a shorter bolt in. Use an impact if you can.
Watch out when you're torquing the crank bolt back down. GM calls for some god awful number like 170 ft/lb or something. I "attempted" to reach it and the bolt snapped off in the crank right at the threads.
Needless to say I felt like dying and couldn't get the bolt out. tried everything that didn't involve heating or removing the crank with no success. Luckilly it broke off pretty deep in there and left me like 2" of hole that I threaded and put a shorter bolt in. Use an impact if you can.
12-24-2005, 12:02 AM
#25
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Its 240 lb ft to seat it.
Also please do not use an impact wrench, that just asking for major problems. I was able to torque mine down to 240 lb ft. I am by no means a body builder either.
Also please do not use an impact wrench, that just asking for major problems. I was able to torque mine down to 240 lb ft. I am by no means a body builder either.
12-24-2005, 12:17 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Rebelord
Oh..and I have a nasty oil leak coming from somewhere..all around my oil filter to down by the drain plug is NASTY! Course my tranny on back is just as bad from driving. I'm hoping to find out where from tommorow. But i did notice so far on the top back of the engine its clean..so the only thing i can think of is either: oil pan gasket or rear seal. But I have to pull the tranny also when this is done..so hopefully it will be more clear
did you find anything else out about this? i think i have the same problem
12-24-2005, 12:31 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by Lithium
Its 240 lb ft to seat it.
Also please do not use an impact wrench, that just asking for major problems. I was able to torque mine down to 240 lb ft. I am by no means a body builder either.
Also please do not use an impact wrench, that just asking for major problems. I was able to torque mine down to 240 lb ft. I am by no means a body builder either.
whata i do?
12-24-2005, 01:33 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by scarbrow
did you find anything else out about this? i think i have the same problem
BTW, do you have lift the engine to remove the oil pan in car???
If I have to..that just gives me and excuse to throw some ARP rod bolts in there for safe keeping.
Ski P.S..standstill now. Waiting on parts...
12-24-2005, 01:36 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
my torque wrench only goes to 200 lb ft
whata i do?
whata i do?
No.Not a good idea..
BTW..how is your cam swap comming along?
12-24-2005, 09:39 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by Rebelord
Go all the way it will go then give it some extra for good measure...LOL! No.
Not a good idea..
BTW..how is your cam swap comming along?
No.Not a good idea..
BTW..how is your cam swap comming along?
Cam swap is going good. the new cam showed up last night, so I'll probably put that in today. the ls1howto method says to crank it to 37lbft and then turn it another 100 degrees...i don't like that method
i think tsp sent me the factory length crank bolt also...i don't want to strip those threads!
whata i do now?
12-24-2005, 09:54 AM
#31
Invest in a longer crank bolt or better yet buy/make a pulley install stud kit. Don't use the stock length bolt to pull the pulley on and don't hammer the pulley on. The thread size you need for a longer one is M16 X 2.0 pitch X 120mm.
Last edited by HavATampa; 05-31-2011 at 10:14 PM.
12-24-2005, 02:28 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by bowtieforpower
ski do you think your parts are going to get here on monday? or does the mail not run then?
12-25-2005, 07:49 AM
#35
What you do is screw the threaded rod into the crank all the way and then back it out about a turn. Don't bottom it out. Lube the threads and the inside of the pulley where it touches the crank and tighten it down. No need to torque it, the pulley will bottom out. Remove the threaded rod and insert a used pulley bolt and tighten it 240 ft. lbs. or as close as you can. Remove the used bolt and insert a new bolt and tighten it to 37 ft. lbs. and then add another 120 degrees or as close as you can.
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
so i could get that bolt you pictured, torque down the pulley, take it out and put the stocker back on? to what lb ft?
