SLED28

iTrader: (7)

The way we did our sleeves, it is virtually imposible to drop a sleeve.. The sleeve is sitting on 2 flats we machine into the block, one at the deck and one at the bottom of the bore. Also the ARE blocks are all dry sleeves. I would think a head gasket is blown. If you start the car and look in the rad cap, can you see the coolant kinda of pulsating to the motor? This would mean its pushing past the gasket and pressurising the rad. Do a leak down test, and that should narrow it down... Let me know.

Quickin

No coolant in the oil as far as I can see, I do my own oil changes and it looks like normal old oil. What would water in the oil look like after its drained out?

The motor cost me $12K

Behind my car on the ground behind both tail pipes is water spatter marks. It comes out only on start up for a few seconds. Once I started my car than immediately walked to the back and opened my hatch and I felt it spraying on my legs. It really had no smell, just a little dark in color. Not oil either. I always thought it was condensation inside the exhaust from sitting over night. Maybe thats the leaky coolant from the gasket.


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Quickin

Hey, whats up?

This rebuild you guys did for me has been friggin great man. The engine has been strong as *****, quiet and smooth since day one.

I was wondering why builders wouldn't machine a little step into the block for the sleeves to sit on, guess you're a few steps ahead on that one.

But I think I did blow a head gasket now that you (and the others) pretty much confirmed the sleeve couldn't have dropped any. I had alot of heating trouble this summer when I would run my A/C, the engine would run perfectly cool, zero detonation, on a hot *** day in traffic. But the second I turned the A/C on it would go right past the 210 degree mark in a matter of 4-5 minutes and the detonation was UNFUGGINBELIEVABLE. I would turn the A/C off and it would all the way back down under the 155 degree mark and run perfect again. I think I blew a gasket than.

I'm gonna have to have someone replace my gaskets I guess. Because other than adding a little water every few days, the engine is running like a gem.

Thanks Sled.


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Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Did you check to see if the fans were instantly coming on when the A/C was turned on? If th eA/C is on, one fan should always be on. Maybe that one isn't working causing you to over heat. Really sounds like a slightly blown gasket. Like the others said, have a leak down done so you know which side it is on.

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

Don't forget if its a head gasket blown, you will need to mill the head, maybe 5 thou just to clean it up. Might have to do both sides, but pull all the rockers off, then do the LD test.

Quickin

Will-do, thanks.

Quickin

When I turn my A/C on, both fans come on "high" and stay on the entire time. I had a thread about this and everyone tried to help me figure it out, I tried everything that this site could dish out. I just can't figure it out. The only way I can use my A/C in the middle of the summer down here is if I'm cruising on the highway steadily, then it will stay cool enough not to have any detonation.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Do you still have the factory fan settings, and what degree thermostat is in it? Sounds like your tuning is at max timing for a givin low temp, and when the motor becomes heated, it detonates. The timing may need to be backed off some, or a 160* t-stat installed and fans programmed accordinglly, if not already done.

Quickin

Mike Norris tuned it and said that isn't the problem. I have a 160 degree stat in there and I pulled it out and it works fine. It doesn't just get hot, my friends scanner showed 235 degrees when the needle is on the 210 mark. When I turn my A/C on in the city the needle will go right past the 210 mark in 4-5 minutes and keep on going if I let it.

The only thing I haven't tried is installing a brand new condensor. I really don't know what else to try.

As far as the fans go. I've gone for a ride, let it get hot and every minute or so I would pull over to check if the fans were on, and they run on high the entire time. It still gets hot.

aux_fast_cam

I would pull the spark plugs out of the motor and see if one looks different than the others. Also on the cooling issue I had a mustang that had ford racing underdrive pulleys and had similar problems, went back to stock pulleys cooling issue went away. I guess it could also be a volume issue with the radiator if it is a stock radiator.

Quickin

Here's another mystery about the cooling issue. My engine when it was first built by ARE never did this, it always ran cool no matter what.

It was rebuilt, installed and now I have this problem.

So it wasn't there before and everything is the same pulley-wise and other-wise.

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

The overheating could be several things: Poor or no coolant, Improper coolant level/mix, bad fan, missing fan shroud, partially clogged radiator (have flushed), bad water pump (possibly a broken impeller. check last) . In the A/C it could have a bunch of junk between the condenser and radiator. Maybe get a flush? But I still bet it has to do with the gasket, did you check the rad cap to see if the level moves if you give it some revs in neutral?

Quickin

Yes, the level goes down, then back up if I rev it while its in park.

All those other things you listed were checked by me, the dealer and a radiator shop. Everything looks good. I don't know about the impeller though, but with the A/C off the engine runs very very cool even in traffic on a very hot day. Its just as soon as that A/C is turned on, all hell breaks loose, and fast too.

I;m going to flush the radiator tomorrow and fix that damn pulley that flew off tonight.

Thanks. Did you get my PM.

Quickin

Hmmmmm, if I rev it in "park" with the engine cold, t-stat closed and the cooling system is getting pressurized from the revs, shouldn't the coolant come up and shoot out of the radiator?

If the engine is at operating temp with the t-stat open, shouldn't it also shoot up and out?

I don't understand the pulsating thing?

When should I do this...cold or hot?



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SLED28

iTrader: (7)

The pulsating means the cylinder compression is getting into the coolant, pretty much telling us its a gasket issue... Thats where your coolant is going.

Quickin

I see, I guess its a gasket than.

Can casual driving damage the head or block. I can't get this thing to Mike Norris just yet.

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't drive it unless totally neccesary...If the gasket gets worse and the motor takes a big gulp of coolant, you could hydraulic the motor.
Wade is thinking the overheating could be an airlock because your 2 sensors are reading different temps...

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

Lyle, clear out your inbox. thanks

Quickin

sorry, its done.

Whats the best way to flush my coolant system? I went to the auto parts store and couldn't find any type of flush fluid or flush kit.



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SLED28

iTrader: (7)

Lyle, clean it out again!